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No wire issues that I can see. Junction box is clean & so is the sub panel. I've got 10/3 wire on a 30 amp breaker. The motor only draws about 15-20 amps. I was able to find a replacement for a reasonable price. I went with WEG brand because it has thermal protection like you said & it's got a...

I guess not. It's the original motor. I'm researching to replace it right now. Any suggestions? I wonder if I can find one that has a way of keeping itself over heating?

I'm impressed with how much heat that little metal cover on the motor contained w/o failure.

Looks like the fitting on the air line gave out & the motor must have been running non stop for quite some time.

Woke up to the smell of a burnt up air compressor motor.

Good choice going with the 309 wire!

If anyone is interested, here's my setup for welding. I got some 10 ga extension cord wire from my Dad & hard wired the wall junction box to a junction box on my welding cart which splits into 2 outlets, one for each machine. The welding cart is from a Lincoln Power Wave that my last employer...

I checked the breaker & it's a 60 amp, then I remembered why I set it up this way. This is a lot so bear with me. The 60 amp breaker on the main panel feeds a 100 amp sub panel through 10/3 wire. I went with 100 amp only because I needed the 8 slots & this was readily available. 2 single pole...

Damn! How long did it take you to drill through those 4 studs?

That's true & I may have misremembered. I'll check when I get home to make sure. Edit: I was wrong, it's a 60 amp breaker.

I skipped the outlet & hardwired it directly in a junction box on the wall

Yes, they will corrode due to increased amount of carbon being introduced into the weld. It might not corrode as fast as uncoated carbon steel, but definitely faster than with tri-mix or 98/2. Filler metal also plays a big role in the corrosion resistance of the weld.

Tri-mix is best for stainless but can be expensive. 98/2 (98% Ar / 2% CO2) is also good & less expensive. 90/10 (90% Ar/10% CO2) is not too bad but the weld is prone to corrosion. 75/25 will work, but the weld will no longer be stainless steel.

Welcome. You might get more responses by posting this in General Discussion. I'm sure @Chris or one of the staff members will gladly move this over for you.

Did it look kinda like this? Edit: reason I ask is that if there's sugaring/oxidation, you can minimize it by welding short segments then let it cool down. Stainless will oxidize if it gets overheated.

Very nice work. How did the welds look on the inside?

Something to consider when buying/owning a welder is it's Duty Cycle. Typically this is a percentage rating in reference to arc time in a 10 minute span. For example a machine with a 30% duty cycle could weld continuously for ≈ 3 minutes before it stops to cool down for ≈ 7 minutes. Inverter...

I don't know. There's too many variables. It looks like you wanted a wider weld so probably.

Not bad. Overhead welding at an angle while laying on your back is not easy. With that, it looks like you might be moving too fast. Your first weld was probably very convex so the second pass just piled on top. The trick to making multiple pass welds is to make sure you prep the previous weld...