Is there a step by step process somewhere in Internet land for wiring in air pumps for Rubicon axles after a swap? I don't want to be cutting the wrong wires or burning out the compressors. Lost at the moment any help is appreciated.
Wiring factory Rubicon air lockers
- Thread starter Kevin E
- Start date
Power and wire a Rubicon air compressor like you would a simple light bulb with only a simple SPST (on-off) switch needed to control it, it is as easy to wire as that.
The black wire coming out of the compressor goes to ground, the other wire (tan with red strip or red with white stripe depending on which model compressor you have) gets a switched 12 volts. The compressor shuts off by itself once the proper pressure is built up so you don't need to worry about complex wiring or control needs. The compressor doesn't draw a lot of amps so no relay is needed. 14-16 gauge wiring is fine, just make sure the on-off switch is a good HD quality switch. I fused my two compressors individually with 5 amp fuses.
Make sure to only use the actual Rubicon compressor (pump) which only puts out about 5 psi. You cannot use a standard 80-120 psi compressor to power the Rubicon lockers. Doing so would blow out the bladder inside the locker.
This is where I mounted my Rubicon compressors...
The black wire coming out of the compressor goes to ground, the other wire (tan with red strip or red with white stripe depending on which model compressor you have) gets a switched 12 volts. The compressor shuts off by itself once the proper pressure is built up so you don't need to worry about complex wiring or control needs. The compressor doesn't draw a lot of amps so no relay is needed. 14-16 gauge wiring is fine, just make sure the on-off switch is a good HD quality switch. I fused my two compressors individually with 5 amp fuses.
Make sure to only use the actual Rubicon compressor (pump) which only puts out about 5 psi. You cannot use a standard 80-120 psi compressor to power the Rubicon lockers. Doing so would blow out the bladder inside the locker.
This is where I mounted my Rubicon compressors...
OP
Thanks Jerry for the info. That's what I needed. All these other wires had me over thinking it.
OP
Took off the loom so I can see what I have. I don't see a red with stripe but I have pink and green together and two reds together. Am I still only using the black and reds or go behind the splices and only use black and the one red wire from pump? Sorry just trying to get it right.
I don't recall what I did with the extra non-black wires, I might have just twisted them together. The compressor itself only needs two wires to work. I'd ground the black wire and apply +12v to the other non-black wiring... they likely go to a common connection inside the pump. Whatever it takes to be able to turn the pump on & off.
Here's the schematic for it out of the FSM, you can see each compressor only requires two wires to work, ground and +12 volt power...
Here's the schematic for it out of the FSM, you can see each compressor only requires two wires to work, ground and +12 volt power...
OP
Victor Cruz
New Member
Hi guys, I have a dilemma.
I’m trying to wire up these pumps red to 12v and black to ground. All I’m getting is a solenoid “click”
what’s the problem??
I’m trying to wire up these pumps red to 12v and black to ground. All I’m getting is a solenoid “click”
what’s the problem??
OP
OP
I put 2006 Rubicon axles that had the pumps , on a 98 TJ and as Jerry suggested everything still works today
Victor Cruz
New Member
I bought the pumps new from summitracing. I read in a different forum that the Click I hear is the pressure release valve. They said the compressors runs on pink and black and has to be wired to the differential so that it can send a signal back to the compressor to close the pressure release valve(red wire)
The compressor shuts itself off automatically when the pressure reaches 5 psi and turns itself back on if the pressure drops. There is absolutely no need to connect anything but 12v and ground to it.
OP
I just looked at mine and I spliced the pink and green wire together off the pump and red goes to battery and black is ground
OP
Tape off the pink/green wire. It doesn't get used. All you need is the red for power and black for ground. No relays are needed either.
I make pigtails for all my installations, then tie into the fuse panel behind the glovebox.
I also use safety switches, so someone doesn't accidentally bump one on.
I make pigtails for all my installations, then tie into the fuse panel behind the glovebox.
I also use safety switches, so someone doesn't accidentally bump one on.
I just bought myself some rubicon axles also to swap in my 05 LJ. I was so lost when I didn’t see the connect for the pumps but this clears things up. Looks like I can make my own switch connections to power the pumps.
I only got the connections for the axle lock switch with the vacuum hoses.
Do you need the original rubicon axle switch in the dash? Or can I just run the pumps to two separate safety switches?
I only got the connections for the axle lock switch with the vacuum hoses.
Do you need the original rubicon axle switch in the dash? Or can I just run the pumps to two separate safety switches?
You don't need or want the original switch, two are better. The Rubicon switch is momentary so it wouldn't work. Those pumps should work with the info on this thread.
No need for any of the Rubicon wiring. Wire each compressor like you would a small 12 volt bulb, use nothing larger than a 5 amp fuse for each.
Two simple on-off switches are all you need, this is where I placed mine.
