97 TJ with a manual heart of a 5.9L Magnum

I installed a new pressure plate and clutch disc. Still not disengaging my transmission when I press clutch pedal in. Im scratching my head. It still feels squishy when I press clutch pedal in.. The master and slave that I'm using are intended for my wrangler with a 2.5L. Is it possible that I need a master and slave intended for the 5.9L?
Yes, I did this same swap with a 5.2l. I bought this slave cylinder and just used the longer rod out of it. I think it was referenced in that really long swap thread. The body was the same as the 2.5l ax15 one but with just a longer rod. I also had to pump my clutch a while to get the air out as it doesn't have a bleeder.

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Yes, I did this same swap with a 5.2l. I bought this slave cylinder and just used the longer rod out of it. I think it was referenced in that really long swap thread. The body was the same as the 2.5l ax15 one but with just a longer rod. I also had to pump my clutch a while to get the air out as it doesn't have a bleeder.

Ebay
You bought a longer rod or made one?
 
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Measure your rod and find a bolt that has a shoulder approx the same size and go buy 2-3 of them in different lengths. I had to go to Fastenal to find the bolts that long. Then cut the head and threaded section off and round each end. Start off 1/4" longer than what you have and work your way out 1/4" at a time. Which is why I said to get some bolts that are longer.
The other option is to find some round stock approx the same diameter and just get a 6' section of it and make your rod from that.
 
You bought a longer rod or made one?
I bought a longer rod. The slave cylinder in that ebay link CS2259 is for a 94-97 Dodge Ram with a 5.2/5.9l. It has the same body as the 2.5l one that came on my Jeep, but with a longer rod. So i just used the longer rod.

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I bought a rod about an inch longer than the stock rod and put it in. Clutch pedal seems maybe just a little stiffer. As far as disengaging... I put my left foot inside Jeep to press clutch, while hanging out of the Jeep I reached under and turned driveshaft. I definitely looked like a fool. The shaft coming out of the TC does twist which tells me its disengaged but I can hear the clutch disc very slightly rubbing on something. I'm guessing the flywheel. So maybe its just barely disengaging and needing another 1/8"? I don't like these "lets wait and see what happens" scenarios but I'm wanting to turn my attention to getting this thing running. Happy Thanksgiving and I appreciate you guy's help.
 
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I bought a rod about an inch longer than the stock rod and put it in. Clutch pedal seems maybe just a little stiffer. As far as disengaging... I put my left foot inside Jeep to press clutch, while hanging out of the Jeep I reached under and turned driveshaft. I definitely looked like a fool. The shaft coming out of the TC does twist which tells me its disengaged but I can hear the clutch disc very slightly rubbing on something. I'm guessing the flywheel. So maybe its just barely disengaging and needing another 1/8"? I don't like these "lets wait and see what happens" scenarios but I'm wanting to turn my attention to getting this thing running. Happy Thanksgiving and I appreciate you guy's help.

These things always seem to happen to me so don't feel bad. I'd find or make one just a little longer.

I had the same thing happen on my ex's CJ5.

Edit: Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
 
I had to hook up the fuel pump connector before the asd would allow the starter to crank. Once I had crank I hooked up the spark plugs and wires and dang this thing roars with the open headers. So exciting to hear it running. I noticed that the throttle body cable is leaving the throttle slightly open. You guys ever adjusted the throttle body cable so it closes when at rest? Also I have ordered new coil springs and fox shocks (2.5" lift) along with bump stops and sway bar links that will be here in a week. I have my stock tj exhaust that I was thinking about having a muffler shop reuse. Thoughts? Lots of little things to do still including fine-tuning the clutch slave.
 

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I had to hook up the fuel pump connector before the asd would allow the starter to crank. Once I had crank I hooked up the spark plugs and wires and dang this thing roars with the open headers. So exciting to hear it running. I noticed that the throttle body cable is leaving the throttle slightly open. You guys ever adjusted the throttle body cable so it closes when at rest? Also I have ordered new coil springs and fox shocks (2.5" lift) along with bump stops and sway bar links that will be here in a week. I have my stock tj exhaust that I was thinking about having a muffler shop reuse. Thoughts? Lots of little things to do still including fine-tuning the clutch slave.

I don't know that the throttle cable is adjustable but don't quote me on that.

No your stock exhaust is not large enough for your V-8. You want/need 2" minimum and I'd go 2.25" from the collectors at the header into the Y pipe and then 2.5" thru your cat & muffler and then to the back. You would be choking the engine down if you tried to reuse the stock 2.5 I-4 exhaust.

Awesome that you got it running. I'll bet you are stoked. Great work & just think you'll be driving it again soon.

Edit: If you read thru that V-8 swap thread over on JF there were a few guys who did reuse the stock exhaust until they could afford a bigger system but they all noticed a power increase when they did.
 
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The throttle cable I used was 53031602AB. This is from a Dodge ram with the same engine. It was a bolt in perfect fit with no slack. Easy to grab from a junkyard too for a few bucks.
 
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The throttle cable I used was 53031602AB. This is from a Dodge ram with the same engine. It was a bolt in perfect fit with no slack. Easy to grab from a junkyard too for a few bucks.

I've got the one I'm pulling off because I need a Dakota throttle cable but I'm sure the shipping would be as expensive as a new one or close to it.
 
I had to hook up the fuel pump connector before the asd would allow the starter to crank. Once I had crank I hooked up the spark plugs and wires and dang this thing roars with the open headers. So exciting to hear it running. I noticed that the throttle body cable is leaving the throttle slightly open. You guys ever adjusted the throttle body cable so it closes when at rest? Also I have ordered new coil springs and fox shocks (2.5" lift) along with bump stops and sway bar links that will be here in a week. I have my stock tj exhaust that I was thinking about having a muffler shop reuse. Thoughts? Lots of little things to do still including fine-tuning the clutch slave.
Hearing a motor fire up for the first time after a swap is one of the coolest things ever! Congrats!

I went thru a few different exhaust set ups on my old YJ with a SBC. I realized the expensive way that I am old and really wanted a quieter exhaust. Rumble is cool drone at all highway speeds was not.

After trying a few name brand mufflers I landed on two of the largest walker generic mufflers I could fit from a local muffler shop. Not sure what shape your original muffler is in but if your already at the shop I would pop for a new one if at all possible.

Not sure about the 5.9 and may be a none issue but I fought header bolts loosening, was a total PITA. While you have the access I would install locking hardware if you already haven't.

Build looks great!
 
The black outer sleeve on my throttle body cable was not fully in the firewall receiver. I pushed it in and the TB cable fits perfectly now. Because it wasnt in all the way when I started the engine it was like revving the engine over 2000 RPMs, making it even louder than idle with open headers. Hearing the engine roar for first time was so exhilarating. Now I need to loom all the wire and install the Quadratec coil springs and fox shocks this weekend before I take to muffler shop. @Wildman I bought a snap-on MT2500 so I need to familiarize myself with it. Seems fairly easy.
 
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The black outer sleeve on my throttle body cable was not fully in the firewall receiver. I pushed it in and the TB cable fits perfectly now. Because it wasnt in all the way when I started the engine it was like revving the engine over 2000 RPMs, making it even louder than idle with open headers. Hearing the engine roar for first time was so exhilarating. Now I need to loom all the wire and install the Quadratec coil springs and fox shocks this weekend before I take to muffler shop. @Wildman I bought a snap-on MT2500 so I need to familiarize myself with it. Seems fairly easy.

Awesome that it was a easy fix.

Yes the MT2500 is pretty easy to understand and operate. Getting your fuel sync set will help it run a lot better. And then once you have it running and driving good if you want you can think about getting tuner for it. Even on a stock engine it can make a big difference in how it runs & your power levels. The factory tunes on these things are CRAP period. Because of some drivability issues they'd released new programing that really cut back on the timing.

Flyin Ryan Performance is a member here and is great with these motors. The other place is HemiFever or UTAwesome Performance to get a tuner & tunes. Have FUN.....
 
This weekend I cleaned up the wiring a little with some red and black wire protectors. I also installed my lift kit which was Quadratec's 2.5" coil springs with Fox shocks and I added 1.25" coil spring spacers up front because of the added weight from the engine. I had previously added a 1.25" body lift about a month ago as well. Up next I will install the cooling system while I wait for Tom Woods to make me some driveshafts. For cooling I'm using the stock 2.5L radiator with a 4.0L fan shroud and a Ford explore clutch fan that you can see in the picture below. I let the engine run for about 10 seconds and it does sound just a little rough and the CEL and Check Gauges light come on so I plan on checking the codes and setting the fuel sync after I install the cooling system.

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This weekend I cleaned up the wiring a little with some red and black wire protectors. I also installed my lift kit which was Quadratec's 2.5" coil springs with Fox shocks and I added 1.25" coil spring spacers up front because of the added weight from the engine. I had previously added a 1.25" body lift about a month ago as well. Up next I will install the cooling system while I wait for Tom Woods to make me some driveshafts. For cooling I'm using the stock 2.5L radiator with a 4.0L fan shroud and a Ford explore clutch fan that you can see in the picture below. I let the engine run for about 10 seconds and it does sound just a little rough and the CEL and Check Gauges light come on so I plan on checking the codes and setting the fuel sync after I install the cooling system.

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I’m just a little envious. Nice work on the swap
 
I’m just a little envious. Nice work on the swap
Thanks. Im about 3 months in on this swap project and it has been really fun with a few frustrating points (clutch issues, finding out I needed to change my tranny, wrestling with rear track bar bolts). Im hoping to have all kinks worked out by the end of the year.
 
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I had a TPS code and realized that Jeep switched the wires from the Dodge. I believe I have the engine wrapped up. Took it for a test drive and the engine hesitates when accelerating. Right before its ready to shift into second its like the RPMs drop and causes a reduction in power. It did seem like the second test drive was working it out a little. I couldn't keep it running for long because it's so loud and neighbors will complain. Im also getting a no bus code. Any idea where to start on troubleshooting? My Tom Woods driveshafts come in tomorrow and after that I'll take it to the muffler shop. That will allow me to diagnose better.

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Your no bus code could be the connection with the dash. Try pulling your dash and disconnect the plug from the back and make sure all the connectors are making a connection.

The hesitation issue I'm not sure about. Since you don't have the exhaust installed it could be because of your O2 sensors.
 
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I had a TPS code and realized that Jeep switched the wires from the Dodge. I believe I have the engine wrapped up. Took it for a test drive and the engine hesitates when accelerating. Right before its ready to shift into second its like the RPMs drop and causes a reduction in power. It did seem like the second test drive was working it out a little. I couldn't keep it running for long because it's so loud and neighbors will complain. Im also getting a no bus code. Any idea where to start on troubleshooting? My Tom Woods driveshafts come in tomorrow and after that I'll take it to the muffler shop. That will allow me to diagnose better.

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Do you have a PN or vehicle your radiator hoses came from?
 
Generally, no bus means something on the 5 volt circuit (most of your sensors) is dorked, and taking it down.