LJR long term "rebuild"

Steel inserts instead of threaded aluminum for one. Big discount and already having a set on the Jeep without issues as well. Hate the Spiderlock looks.

Yeah, still not 100% on 40" or 43" tires. MT shows recommended minimum rim width for 40" is 9" and 43" is 9.5". Probably wont make a bit of difference either way.

I totally understand your reasons was just curious. And I get not liking the look of a wheel too. There are many rims I wouldn't ever let near my rig just cause I don't like the looks.
 
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I run the Monster’s, so please, run the Avengers!

Advice if you get the Racelines: Be sure the reset all of the inserts before you try to mount them. They have a reputation for setting many of them crooked - and you don’t want to find that out while you‘re trying to mount the rings.
 
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Ordered Avengers, they showed up in 2 days. I like them, even if it does look like FedEx tossed them down a couple flights of stairs.

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Few of us are looking at going to either SMORR or RMR in April. You all going to have working rigs in April? If so, and we decide on SMORR, I will send you a note.
 
Few of us are looking at going to either SMORR or RMR in April. You all going to have working rigs in April? If so, and we decide on SMORR, I will send you a note.

If you have never been to SMORR its worth a look. We probably will be there a lot this Spring working bugs out of the two YJ builds.

Not doing anything but maintenance to mine this year. Might work on the cage some. Nothing major. Unless it brakes I will 100% have a working rig. Just charged the battery up and started it for the first time in a couple months.
 
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If you have never been to SMORR its worth a look. We probably will be there a lot this Spring working bugs out of the two YJ builds.

Not doing anything but maintenance to mine this year. Might work on the cage some. Nothing major. Unless it brakes I will 100% have a working rig. Just charged the battery up and started it for the first time in a couple months.

Well first trip out we broke it. Slide into a rock and ripped off a fender flare, dented the tub a little too. Pretty sure the front locker is about to give it up as well. It rachets, need to pull the carrier and check but been too busy.

In other news, nearly all my Barnes parts are in, plus my new 8" PSC ram showed up.

Was taking inventory and marking and bagging up stuff when a TMR box showed up with a few more parts.

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My neighbor pulled in with a truck load of tool boxes. He is a mechanic at a new car dealer and upgraded. He offered me my pick of any of his old stuff. The only thing I wanted was the roller below. I tried to pay him, but he just wanted a hand shake, Good kid.

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Got ready to pull the front cover today and check out the ratcheting issues from the locker. Drained the oil and found this, not a good start.

Should have some stock locker stuff for sale soon. One good diaphragm, one or two good pumps. Will post when its ready.

Going to replace front with a full case Grizzly.

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Ring and pinion look great. Found some teeth from the spiders and side gear in the bottom of the housing. Shame it broke before I could swap to one ton axles, but better to break on me now that sell to someone and make me look bad. Ordering a replacement now. Had plans to hit some trails in a couple weeks, need to get with it.

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Heading over to to the shop tonight to weld up the 14 bolt truss and tear down the diffs.

Ordered 2 sets of Mevotech ball joints for both the Dana 60's, one for me and one for a gift to my friends rig for all his help. We are going to try these out and see if we have a failure. If we do, ball joint eliminators are the next step.

Also super excited about a conversation I had with Mickey Thompson today. Not 100% yet, but it looks like I might be getting a set of 43" Pro XS tires for the Jeep. This means I will need to highline and will probably replace all my armor. Looking at Motobilt for everything.

More to come....
Any more info on these Mevotech ball joints? First I've heard of them. Which ones did you get?

https://www.mevotech.com/parts-resu...-250 Super Duty&submodel=Lariat&drivetype=4WD
 
General question on the SD 60 swap. I think I read that you are going with 14" ORI struts and this question is not relevant to coilovers or ORI so not a question related to your swap, just a general question. My question - I have seen other forums and videos of people installing a Barnes or Artec truss with coil spring perches and these coil spring perches are installed on top of the truss which is quite a few inches above the axle tube. Do you all know if they are installing shorter coil springs to maintain ride height and losing up travel OR are they raising the ride height the distance of the truss? I have not found a post or video that talks to this.
 
General question on the SD 60 swap. I think I read that you are going with 14" ORI struts and this question is not relevant to coilovers or ORI so not a question related to your swap, just a general question. My question - I have seen other forums and videos of people installing a Barnes or Artec truss with coil spring perches and these coil spring perches are installed on top of the truss which is quite a few inches above the axle tube. Do you all know if they are installing shorter coil springs to maintain ride height and losing up travel OR are they raising the ride height the distance of the truss? I have not found a post or video that talks to this.

Probably situational, most of the big jeep guys I know run less up travel to keep a lower CG. The minimum seems to be 4-5" of up to maintain ride quality and flex. Have to balance it somehow. A few guys run front / back frame kits to get a little more up travel and give more room for packaging. These guys also run full hydro steering.
 
For how light a TJ is, I was looking at how to install a SD 60 with no truss. But unless you go coilover, there is really no place to attach a coil spring perch on that drivers side of the SD Dana 60 without adding the truss structure to give you a flat surface. Also, need the bridge to add the upper control arm mount.
 
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For how light a TJ is, I was looking at how to install a SD 60 with no truss. But unless you go coilover, there is really no place to attach a coil spring perch on that drivers side of the SD Dana 60 without adding the truss structure to give you a flat surface. Also, need the bridge to add the upper control arm mount.
My buddies YJ has a Dana 60 with no truss. It’s an old Chevy kingpin though. Also on coil overs. Upper link brackets welded to the tube. Lots of guys running the swap truss with coils. Works pretty good but the jeep gets wide.
 
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Slow progress these last couple of weeks. Sourced a new Dana 44 Grizzly and swapped my ring gear over and pressed on new bearings. Its been sitting in the garage waiting for me to want to install it. Been in Baja this last week driving race cars again. Good times.

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My co driver got us stuck twice. Too fast for the whoops and he braked hard and stalled the engine. Soft silt and we dug a hole.

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Did get some work on the Dana 60/14B done. Welded on hi-steer arms and started setting up the gears. That spool is a beefy piece. Took a couple tried to get the pinion preload right with the crush eliminator. We ran out of time, but its ready to assemble.

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Also collected some brake components. All new, nothing reman. Spare bedroom looks like a Napa.

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