Ok, time for lets argue about your favorite shocks

FOX 2.0 IFP here. They are great. I've had two other sets (some no name and Rancho RS9000) so nothing great to compare to, but I really like them.
They made the biggest difference in ride quality/comfort, along with the softest/best springs available for the TJ — Forged in the mountains of Mordor.
I have been both pleasantly surprised and then astounded at the shit performance from those. I have no idea how they did it, but I drove a set a fair bit on a TJ Unlimited. Take off from a stop and it would lean over so much it was scary. Do a left turn with enthusiasm from a stop and it was terrifying. Go down the road a bit and it was bone jarring harsh on small events like 1-2" deep sections where the pavement got popped out. Just a miserable set of shocks.
 
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Basically, what Im looking for is a set of shocks that can handle 2" to 4" washboard dirt roads that won't rattle my molars out of my head, and sound like the Tj is coming apart at the seams.

I figured half my problem is the body mounts, the other half is the shocks.
 
I have been both pleasantly surprised and then astounded at the shit performance from those. I have no idea how they did it, but I drove a set a fair bit on a TJ Unlimited. Take off from a stop and it would lean over so much it was scary. Do a left turn with enthusiasm from a stop and it was terrifying. Go down the road a bit and it was bone jarring harsh on small events like 1-2" deep sections where the pavement got popped out. Just a miserable set of shocks.
I have nothing to compare them to. The Rancho 9000s we’re crazy stiff even on the lowest setting. Only marginally better than a solid steel rod. Are the Fox 2.0 IFPs tunable?
 
Ok, im an idiot, for some reason, I thought the Tj had Rancho shocks ~~~ nope, I got these things?
My next question is, how long do the shock have to be, and what travel length should they be for a 4" lift, or should I just measure from the center of the mounts?


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Ok, im an idiot, for some reason, I thought the Tj had Rancho shocks ~~~ nope, I got these things?
My next question is, how long do the shock have to be, and what travel length should they be for a 4" lift, or should I just measure from the center of the mounts?


View attachment 327239

Measure the distance between the upper and lower shock mounts at ride height. Pull the old shocks out along with the springs and then run your axle to full bump. Measure the distance between the shock mounts. Repeat that procedure with your axle at full droop. Find a shock based on your numbers--Travel split at 50/50 at right height, one that collapses and fits the mounts at full bump, one that extends far enough that you're not going to unseat a spring or cause driveline bind.
 
Measure the distance between the upper and lower shock mounts at ride height. Pull the old shocks out along with the springs and then run your axle to full bump. Measure the distance between the shock mounts. Repeat that procedure with your axle at full droop. Find a shock based on your numbers--Travel split at 50/50 at right height, one that collapses and fits the mounts at full bump, one that extends far enough that you're not going to unseat a spring or cause driveline bind.
got it, thanx. I got to replace those and all the body mounts, so I might as well do the whole mess all at once, Thanx again
 
I am looking at the 12” shocks for outboarding, I do not see the steel body on fox’s website. Do they still make the, or did everything change to the aluminum body? Would you recommend the 5/8” or 7/8” shaft?
The 7/8" thing is something you should discuss with your tuner and base that on reservoir selection. Check Poly for part numbers. 980-02-039 and 034 are what we typically use.
 
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question: If the rear, upper bolts break/snap off, why not try to drill them and use some heat and a "easy-out"

Im just curious as to why no one seems to suggest that ???
 
ok, is this an incredibly stupid idea or is this genius? I think this is a reall dumb and lazy way to fix a minor problem

I think it looks like a good solution for the rust belt areas. They would be some lost travel.
 
ok, is this an incredibly stupid idea or is this genius? I think this is a reall dumb and lazy way to fix a minor problem

Considering it's in single shear, you better have a whole lotta confidence in that bolt, especially how he spaced it with the nuts.
 
Considering it's in single shear, you better have a whole lotta confidence in that bolt, especially how he spaced it with the nuts.
The biggest mechanical problem is that he didn't sleeve the hole the through the frame rail. That bolt will never stay tight.

The dumbest part is that he lowered the upper shock mounting point which reduces travel and screws up the travel bias.
 
Ton of leverage on that bolt. At best it will bend or shear. More likely it will cause damage to the frame (pulling the walls together as nothing of substance is preventing that).
 
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