Trying to get it mostly right the first time: A 5.9 Magnum, 46RE swapped and tummy tucked daily driver TJ

I finally have something that gives the resemblance of progress!


Since Alabama weather in March is a mixed bag, I’ve tried to have stuff to do both in my shop and outside so I can maintain progress no matter the weather. With a BEAUTIFUL weekend of weather forecast, I enlisted the help of my dad to help me drag the green TJ out of storage on March 3rd (remember, I want to hear this run on the weekend around April 1st.)

Side note – I have a few Badlands winches from HF and bought their Apex wireless controller so it can be used on multiple winches. I’ve had really good luck with the winches and absolutely love the remote. It was used heavily this weekend.

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If you recall, the green TJ had a 5.2/44re/231 out of a GC sitting in it, so the first order of business was to pull that out.

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Since my 5.9 was in my shop getting a refresh, I opted to use the 5.2 as a mock up. I swapped the 46re transmission and the Durango exhaust manifolds onto the 5.2 to duplicate the final product. I’d thrown the 3in body lift that my TJ came with into the parts bin a few years ago thinking I might use it for something later (I’m kind of a parts hoarder). The body lift was brought out of retirement, cut down to 1.25” and installed to replicate what I have on my 97 TJ.

My wife says I can't ever live somewhere with an HOA. I can't quite figure out why...


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The Advance Adapter mounts are (allegedly) designed to work with a 5.2/5.9 and an automatic transmission, so I set them in their recommended place and tacked them in. Using a digital angle finder, the mounts were angled back 5* relative to the flat frame section under the tub and tack welded into place. I researched several tummy tuck threads and most all of the builds required some form of MML. Since a Magnum swapped TT wasn’t very well documented, I assumed there was the likelihood I would need a MML, so I opted to keep the AA engine mounts in their recommended location and build some spacers should the engine need any vertical adjustment. Using the frame as a reference again, the engine is currently angled back just shy of 4*, so I currently don’t plan to add any spacers.

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I raised the transfer case up within a 3/4" of the tub to give myself some room for the drivetrain to move. That tab contacting the body will go away with the SYE.

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Up to this point I had intentionally not ordered any headers in hopes that the Durango manifolds and Y pipe fit as-is, mostly for the sake of the time it would save. Much to my satisfaction, everything fit like a glove. Score!

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Just take my word that the Y pipe fits. It didn't photograph very well when its all right in your face.

I bolted the Summit radiator onto the grill to verify fitment with the mechanical fan from the ZJ. It clears the radiator by ¾”. I plan to run electric fans, but still wanted to keep the option to go mechanical.

With the engine on the mounts, the transmission / transfer case sitting roughly in their final home, and the manifolds and Y pipe installed I grabbed a cold beer and studied for a bit. Here were my initial observations:
  • The Durango manifolds and Y pipe fit well, but wouldn’t allow the engine to come back any further if needed. Not sure why it would need to though.
  • Just by eyeballing the transmission mount in relation to the center skid plate bolt, it looks like the 46re mount would sit back down in the factory skid plate holes (or at most require the Barnes 4wd skid plate)
  • A completely flat skid plate is definitely possible, but you’d have to either bolt the transmission to the skid plate or get creative with the crossmember. The distance from the bottom of the frame to the underside of the CV joint on the front driveshaft is your limiting factor here – its about 1.25”.
  • This swap might be doable without a BL if the AA mounts were moved slightly forward.
  • Someone hit me - this is actually happening!
This brings us up to Friday March 11th.
 
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I took off work on Friday the 11th to spend working on the Jeep. The goal for the day was to get the transmission crossmember completed and start on the exhaust.

I purchased the Barnes 4WD Crossmember Mounting Set to serve as the foundation. Since the TJ frame tapers in and I wanted the bushings to be parallel with each other I used a straight edge on the UCF skid plate to mark and trim the mounting tabs. I am quite a ways from claiming to be proficient at tube bending, so take my building process as a grain of salt. My skid plate has a 1” drop (measured from the mounting flange to the top of the skid), so I cut 2 1” spacers and clamped up my level to use as a straight edge and figure out the bends. The tube had to be directly under or behind the front CV joint for it to clear the drive shaft, so I opted to put it directly under the joint.

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After 2 bends and a few trips back and forth to the notcher, this was the final result:

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I opted to use the factory transmission mounting plate as part of the crossmember. It’s not as elegant as I wanted, but it was simple and worked. I cut and notched 2 short tubes to tie this mount to the crossmember. And no, I didn’t weld those huge gaps – the tubes were readjusted after this was taken.

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With the crossmember tacked together, the exhaust was the next piece to tackle. The Durango used 2.5” exhaust, and since I was utilizing the Durango manifolds and Y pipe I chose to maintain that size on my Jeep. Had I started from scratch I would have likely done a 3” all the way back.

The addition of the crossmember made routing the exhaust a tight squeeze, but a fairly simple ordeal. I welded on a pair of 3 bolt exhaust flanges from Summit Racing to mate the new exhaust to the Durango Y pipe and ran the new catalytic converter and muffler straight back to the factory exhaust hanger. An O2 sensor bung was added behind the cat to maintain the stock configuration. I’ll let an exhaust shop bend a new tailpipe for me once I have this running and driving. I'll post exhaust pictures once I can get a better picture.


Spoiler alert: I didn’t get ALL this done on Saturday. I can't have y'all thinking I work that fast....
 
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Remember the mixed back of weather I talked about? It was mid 70s the day before. The next morning?


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I don’t like to bounce around on a project, but I can’t help the weather. I spent the next 2 days checking items off my to-do list for the 5.9 since I couldn’t just toss this motor in the Jeep after all the other work I’ve done. I decided to do the following:

  • Install a Melling oil pump and Felpro oil pan gasket
  • Install the Hughes Engines plenum plate kit. PS – this is a really nice and complete kit. Their directions are pretty great too.
  • Install a new Melling timing chain set and Felpro gasket.
  • Replace all the spark plugs and wires.
  • Install a new belt, tensioner, water pump and a ZJ PS pump bracket.


At my wife’s request, I ordered new Weathertech mats for the front. Its almost comical how big of a difference new mats make on an interior.


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I blinked and my deadline of hearing the Jeep run was here and I was nowhere close to being ready for that. With the mock-up complete enough, I decided it was time to start hustling on the final product. After about 7 hours on Saturday I had a destroyed carport and had managed to sell the 2.5 engine, ECU and air intake.


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I spent Sunday getting re-organized and returning the 98 TJ back to storage. I’ll focus on getting it sold once the swap is complete. My next goal is to have the motor and transmission in the TJ by 4/11.
 
Weather seems to be affecting us all. This was last night at my house.

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Yes the Hughes plenum kit is a nice addition. And worth it for piece of mind once it is running.
 
At this point I’ve given up on deadlines and am simply putting in the hours until this is done.

With the 2.5 out, it was time to rinse and repeat and get the drivetrain set in its final home. A Sawzall, grinder and air hammer (sorry neighbors) removed the old engine mounts. I set the mounts to the same 5* angle back I’d mocked them up for, fully welded and painted them.

The engine refresh was completed, so I turned my attention to the transmission and transfer case. The transmission received a new Wix filter and pan gasket, new overdrive housing (I cracked the old one-oops), new torque converter (another oops – I scrapped the old one) and a sending unit mounted in the pan for the Glow Shift gauge. The pan in the 46RE had some clutch material and minor metal flake but not enough to concern me so I’ll run this transmission until it needs a rebuild.

Next was to install the JB Conversions SSSYE. Since the AX-5 transmission that comes behind the 2.5L has a 21 spline input and the 46RE has a 23 spline input I needed to swap the input shaft. I bought a pair of lock ring pliers off Amazon [DG1] and went to work. The only difference I found between the NP231D and NP231J was the output shaft and shaft housing, but since I’m swapping in a SYE that is now irrelevant. I opted to keep my Jeep case and swap everything into it.

There’s really not much to the NP231, so installing the SYE was a matter of disassembling both cases, swapping parts around and reassembling. I’d read on other threads about folks buying and swapping in an HD chain, 6 gear planetary and input shaft and here is an advantage to buying a Dodge as a donor (not sure if this is applicable to a GC or not) – my Dodge NP231 already had 2 out of the 3 so there’s no need to buy anything.

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My NP231D had the same 3 pinion planetary, so no upgrade there. The input shaft was removed and installed into the Jeep case.

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It did have the wider HD sprocket and chain:

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This shows the differences in the input shafts. From Left to Right: JBC, NP231J and NP231D. Look how short the JBC SYE is!

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I installed a thin bead of ultra grey RTV to the case halves, torqued everything to spec and bolted the transfer case back up to the transmission.

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The transmission was married back to the engine and the entire assembly went into the Jeep for what should be the final time.

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Next was to install the crossmember. If you’re using tabs in a double shear setup, here’s a tip to allow easier installation after welding. Whether you’re installing a heim joint for steering or a harness mount, install an extra washer or some spacer between the tabs prior to welding. This prevents the tabs from pulling together and making your crossmember, seatbelt, etc. nearly impossible to install. Another note if you’re using bushings – be careful not to melt your busing when welding.

I bolted the tabs to the crossmember, tacked the mounting tabs in place then pulled the crossmember. The bushings from the Barnes 4wd kit have a 3” mounting width so I cut a piece of scrap tube at 3.125”, bolted that between the tabs and grabbed the welder. You could also do this with all-thread.

Truth be told, I never really liked the transmission mount I’d mocked up before and was on the fence about changing it and after feedback from another forum I opted to change it. The drivetrain wants to rotate around the crankshaft, so the transmission needs to be able to rotate around that axis as well. The way I’d previously designed the mount the transmission was essentially fixed and would have likely broken the weld on the mount or cracked the transmission housing.



The factory Dodge transmission bracket centers the TJ rubber mount over the front 2 mounting bolts, moving it away from the crossmember. Unfortunately, it’s far enough away that it creates too much of a moment on the crossmember for me to be comfortable with. I decided to build a custom mount out of 3/16” material and a Barnes poly bushing kit and mount. Here was the final result:

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The transfer case was 20.25” from the driver side frame rail to the center of the rear output shaft, so I matched that dimension here. I intentionally shifted the bushing to the rear to make the mounting tabs as short as possible. Yet another tech tip for overhead welding – wear some earplugs to avoid getting sparks down your ear. It’s really unpleasant.



I had a few hours after work this week to tackle a small project and decided to mount the transmission and power steering cooler. The transmission cooler mount is simply threaded trick tabs welded to the brace behind the grill. The power steering cooler bolts to a 14ga mounting plate welded above the trans cooler.

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Next on the to-do list is to finish the exhaust, install the wiring harness and get power to the starter so I can hear the engine fire up, hopefully this weekend.
 
You're making good progress and looks like you're really close to being able to fire it off. I like your mount for the transmission too. Great job. And the cooler mounts look good too.
 
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Next was to install the crossmember. If you’re using tabs in a double shear setup, here’s a tip to allow easier installation after welding. Whether you’re installing a heim joint for steering or a harness mount, install an extra washer or some spacer between the tabs prior to welding. This prevents the tabs from pulling together and making your crossmember, seatbelt, etc. nearly impossible to install. Another note if you’re using bushings – be careful not to melt your busing when welding.

I bolted the tabs to the crossmember, tacked the mounting tabs in place then pulled the crossmember. The bushings from the Barnes 4wd kit have a 3” mounting width so I cut a piece of scrap tube at 3.125”, bolted that between the tabs and grabbed the welder. You could also do this with all-thread.

Truth be told, I never really liked the transmission mount I’d mocked up before and was on the fence about changing it and after feedback from another forum I opted to change it. The drivetrain wants to rotate around the crankshaft, so the transmission needs to be able to rotate around that axis as well. The way I’d previously designed the mount the transmission was essentially fixed and would have likely broken the weld on the mount or cracked the transmission housing.



The factory Dodge transmission bracket centers the TJ rubber mount over the front 2 mounting bolts, moving it away from the crossmember. Unfortunately, it’s far enough away that it creates too much of a moment on the crossmember for me to be comfortable with. I decided to build a custom mount out of 3/16” material and a Barnes poly bushing kit and mount. Here was the final result:

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The transfer case was 20.25” from the driver side frame rail to the center of the rear output shaft, so I matched that dimension here. I intentionally shifted the bushing to the rear to make the mounting tabs as short as possible. Yet another tech tip for overhead welding – wear some earplugs to avoid getting sparks down your ear. It’s really unpleasant.



I had a few hours after work this week to tackle a small project and decided to mount the transmission and power steering cooler. The transmission cooler mount is simply threaded trick tabs welded to the brace behind the grill. The power steering cooler bolts to a 14ga mounting plate welded above the trans cooler.

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Next on the to-do list is to finish the exhaust, install the wiring harness and get power to the starter so I can hear the engine fire up, hopefully this weekend.
I think you are going to want to rotate that transmission cooler so the inlet and outlet are on top... The way you have it could trap air.
 
Dan I’m doing the same swap. I have a few questions tho I posted a thread with it anyway you could check it out. I’m needed some help understanding some things with a specific aspect of the wiring I’m hoping someone could help me out with. Thanks!! Build looking great!!!!
 
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I think you are going to want to rotate that transmission cooler so the inlet and outlet are on top... The way you have it could trap air.
I'll take a look at that - this is the same orientation as the factory cooler in my Silverado so I didn't think anything of it.

Dan I’m doing the same swap. I have a few questions tho I posted a thread with it anyway you could check it out. I’m needed some help understanding some things with a specific aspect of the wiring I’m hoping someone could help me out with. Thanks!! Build looking great!!!!
I responded there. Good luck with the swap! Its a fun one.

There's a few areas I plan to go into a lot of detail in this thread - wiring and A/C are the main ones so be on the lookout for those writeups in the coming weeks. I'll also do a 'lessons learned' to hopefully help someone else not make the same mistakes I did.
 
I'm steadily plugging away at this.

The exhaust has been test-fit and will need some slight modifications - I'll get to that later.
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I installed the passenger side fender so I can mount the PDC and start installing battery cables. I used marine grade 4AWG wire for starter power, battery to chassis ground and engine to battery ground. I used a HF hydraulic crimp tool to crimp the terminals, used marine grade heat shrink on top of that and wire loomed the cables for added protection. For terminals this large I believe a properly done crimp is the way to go.

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After all this work, especially the wiring (which I'll edit and outline later), I HAD to know if this pile ran. I hooked up the battery and it passed the smoke test (read: it didn't burn to the ground... for all you VGG viewers out there). I turned the key and it actually fired right up! And almost immediately died... Here's where I need help:

I know that Durango's were known to all have SKIM, however my donor had a sticker noting the PCM had been replaced and it also cranked with a flathead screwdriver (I told yall it was a shady deal). I have an MT2500 scanner, typical OBD2 scanner and an SCT tuner all at my disposal - how can I know if SKIM is active?

I'll also be checking/ bypassing the ASD relay and verifying fuel pressure to rule that out as well.
 
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If it started and died within 2-5 seconds it has skim. There is a way to get around the skim but I'll have to try and find the information again.
If you want I can loan you a known good PCM to test things and verify that this is the issue.
 
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If it started and died within 2-5 seconds it has skim. There is a way to get around the skim but I'll have to try and find the information again.
If you want I can loan you a known good PCM to test things and verify that this is the issue.
Yes, it dies almost as soon as it fires up (unrelated, but the same thing that my Chevy did when I swapped in a tuned computer).

I'll keep that PCM in mind - thanks.
 
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Yes, it dies almost as soon as it fires up (unrelated, but the same thing that my Chevy did when I swapped in a tuned computer).

I'll keep that PCM in mind - thanks.

Either look in some junk yards or go to Ebay to get a PCM that doesn't have skim.

Also @Wranglerfix repairs PCM's so he might know if you can remove it & how.
 
quick question. you do not have a body lift? I am doing the same swap and I do not want to add a body lift.
I have an 1.25" Rough Country body lift. What are your reservations with running a BL? I'm typically anti BL, but in this case I believe it solves far more issues than it creates.


On another note, I've learned a lot about motor mount placement and radiators / fan clutch clearance lately that I'll elaborate on in detail when I get time to write about it. In short, I'd strongly recommend moving the mounts at least 1" back of where AA recommends you place them regardless of your transmission choice.
 
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quick question. you do not have a body lift? I am doing the same swap and I do not want to add a body lift.

Why don't you want one?

I have an 1.25" Rough Country body lift. What are your reservations with running a BL? I'm typically anti BL, but in this case I believe it solves far more issues than it creates.

Agreed. The body lift on our TJ's just seems to help a lot more.

On another note, I've learned a lot about motor mount placement and radiators / fan clutch clearance lately that I'll elaborate on in detail when I get time to write about it. In short, I'd strongly recommend moving the mounts at least 1" back of where AA recommends you place them regardless of your transmission choice.


Look forward to reading about this when you get the chance. Curious to hear what you've figured out and the reasons why.
 
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Look forward to reading about this when you get the chance. Curious to hear what you've figured out and the reasons why.

Here's the quick version for anyone interested. To recap, I am running a 5.9L and 46RE in a 97 TJ that was formerly a 2.5L - the engine is slightly relevant, the transmission isn't. I'm retaining A/C. I located the engine mount where AA says to set them and verified this prior to burning the mounts in (apparently I didn't verify well). I purchased a Summit V8 swap radiator for the TJ.

EDITED TO ADD: Skip to post #68 for an update.

Here are my findings. Your mileage may vary:
  • Mounts in the AA recommended location do allow the use of stock exhaust manifolds.
  • The Summit radiator doesn't allow room for any fan combination . I have less than 2.5" from the front of the water pump pulley to the radiator - there's not a combination that I've found to be that narrow and I've looked at both electric and mechanical. Proform advertises a Slim Fit radiator and fan combo that would fit, but there is alarmingly little information and forum chatter about it.
  • Very few V8 swap radiators on eBay have provisions to mount a shroud or electric fan. You'll have to pony up and pay for a quality radiator to get those mounts or run an upgraded stock replacement. These guys are local to me and have a great reputation: https://cgj.com/product-category/radiators/antique-performance-radiators/jeep-radiators
  • Additionally, many V8 swap radiators flip the inlet and outlet as compared to the stock TJ setup. In doing so, the radiator outlet is halfway covered by the AC compressor with little room to make the turn. This is not unique to Summit - any V8 swap radiator with horizontal tanks and a driver side outlet will have this issue. A radiator with either the stock orientation or an LS swap radiator (in/out on the passenger side) would fix this.
  • I've not found hard evidence, but many say that the stock 4.0/2.5 radiator will cool a 5.2 but not a 5.9. A stock replacement upgraded radiator might be adequate to cool the 5.9. I purchased a stock replacement aluminum radiator and am hoping it will adequately cool my 5.9. An oil cooler and hood louvers are my Plan B. Plan C involves a grinder and a lot of re-work.
  • The ZJ fan clutch is the same height as a Durango fan clutch at 3.5" and contacts the lower tank of my aftermarket radiator when I install it. it does clear a stock (OReilly replacement) OEM radiator. The Magnum V6 Dakota clutch is 2.97" and allows the lower radiator tank to clear on installation. It still doesn't allow the thicker Summit radiator to fit
In short, the AA recommended placement does allow use of stock driveshafts and exhaust manifolds but can really limit your cooling system. You can build an exhaust to fit - you can't make a radiator and fan fit where the space doesn't exist.
 
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Here's the quick version for anyone interested. To recap, I am running a 5.9L and 46RE in a 97 TJ that was formerly a 2.5L - the engine is slightly relevant, the transmission isn't. I'm retaining A/C. I located the engine mount where AA says to set them and verified this prior to burning the mounts in (apparently I didn't verify well). I purchased a Summit V8 swap radiator for the TJ.

Here are my findings. Your mileage may vary:
  • Mounts in the AA recommended location do allow the use of stock exhaust manifolds.
  • The Summit radiator doesn't allow room for any fan combination . I have less than 2.5" from the front of the water pump pulley to the radiator - there's not a combination that I've found to be that narrow and I've looked at both electric and mechanical. Proform advertises a Slim Fit radiator and fan combo that would fit, but there is alarmingly little information and forum chatter about it.
  • Very few V8 swap radiators on eBay have provisions to mount a shroud or electric fan. You'll have to pony up and pay for a quality radiator to get those mounts. These guys are local to me and have a great reputation: https://cgj.com/product-category/radiators/antique-performance-radiators/jeep-radiators
  • Additionally, many V8 swap radiators flip the inlet and outlet as compared to the stock TJ setup. In doing so, the radiator outlet is halfway covered by the AC compressor with little room to make the turn. This is not unique to Summit - any V8 swap radiator with horizontal tanks and a driver side outlet will have this issue. A radiator with either the stock orientation or an LS swap radiator (in/out on the passenger side) would fix this.
  • I've not found hard evidence, but many say that the stock 4.0/2.5 radiator will cool a 5.2 but not a 5.9. A stock replacement upgraded radiator might be adequate to cool the 5.9. I purchased a stock replacement aluminum radiator and am hoping it will adequately cool my 5.9. An oil cooler and hood louvers are my Plan B. Plan C involves a grinder and a lot of re-work.
  • The ZJ fan clutch is the same height as a Durango fan clutch at 3.5" and contacts the lower tank of my aftermarket radiator when I install it. it does clear a stock (OReilly replacement) OEM radiator. The Magnum V6 Dakota clutch is 2.97" and allows the lower radiator tank to clear on installation. It still doesn't allow the thicker Summit radiator to fit
In short, the AA recommended placement does allow use of stock driveshafts and exhaust manifolds but can really limit your cooling system. You can build an exhaust to fit - you can't make a radiator and fan fit where the space doesn't exist.

I reserve the right to edit the above information once my TJ is up and running.

Interesting. I have a Black Magic electric fan on mine along with a brass radiator. When I started having the overheating issues I swapped it out for a aluminum radiator off Ebay that came with a Spall fan & shroud. But IMO it's a poor design and the mounts aren't correct either.
I cut the threaded snout off the water pump to clear this setup where with the brass radiator & Black Magic fan I didn't have any clearance issues.

As for the A/C causing clearance issues what upper hose are you running? Not mine but it shows the clearance.

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This was mine but I took the compressor off since I didn't reinstall A/C. Still trying to decide if I want A/C.

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