DOT approved beadlocks

There is no such thing as a DOT approved or certified bead lock wheel. Period. Despite some manufacturers claiming theirs are. The Federal DOT has no testing guidelines for bead lock wheels, does not test or certify them, and has no laws against their use on public roads and highways.

There are only two known states whose State DOT has laws against their use on public roads and highways, New Jersey and Utah.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
There is no such thing as a DOT approved or certified bead lock wheel. Period. Despite some manufacturers claiming theirs are. The Federal DOT has no testing guidelines for bead lock wheels, does not test or certify them, and has no laws against their use on public roads and highways.

There are only two known states whose State DOT has laws against their use on public roads and highways, New Jersey and Utah.
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Have you seen the way these are designed though? The bead sits on the wheel like all other non beadlocks wheels but is fastened behind the rubber to the lip
 
Seems a lot easier to use than the beadlocks that I’ve seen, but I haven’t seen many.

And how does $300- $400 dollars a wheel compare with standard beadlock rims, and are 17” tires priced similar to 15’s?

Just curious. If I ever get beadlocks, It’ll be way in my future.
 
Apparition said:
Why not use it on both beads?
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Hutchinson and StazWork's and Hummer rims are dual beadlock design.

It's a interesting idea and Hutchinson has the same claim of being DOT compliant. You've seen what it takes to get the insert inside the tire.
 
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It is probably a small loophole. Since it is not a traditional Beadlock, it's just a wheel with bolts that hold the tire in. So it's just a wheel, which is easy to get DOT compliant.
 
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Wildman said:
Hutchinson and StazWork's and Hummer rims are dual beadlock design.

It's a interesting idea and Hutchinson has the same claim of being DOT compliant. You've seen what it takes to get the insert inside the tire.
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I know there are dual beadlocks out there. I'm pointing out if the design worked so well why not do both sides?

Also this design doesn't really clamp the bead, I wonder if the tire can spin on the wheel?
 
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Apparition said:
I know there are dual beadlocks out there. I'm pointing out if the design worked so well why not do both sides?

Also this design doesn't really clamp the bead, I wonder if the tire can spin on the wheel?
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I would imagine spinning on wheel would depend on how thick the bead is in comparison to the space between lip and the beadlock bolts.
 
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Brilliant! Simple solution, and seems like it should be lighter (and cheaper!) too. Hopefully prices come down quickly, and they lock both beads.
 
Just finding out about them. Pretty cool design.
srimes said:
Brilliant! Simple solution, and seems like it should be lighter (and cheaper!) too. Hopefully prices come down quickly, and they lock both beads.
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They only did one bead
But I have read about Coyote Dual lock internal insert. Which might be the way I go in the future. You have a variety of more wheels to choose from and locks both beads.
 
kmas0n said:
It is probably a small loophole. Since it is not a traditional Beadlock, it's just a wheel with bolts that hold the tire in. So it's just a wheel, which is easy to get DOT compliant.
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I think so. I think it also has to deal with traditional beadlocks needing constant maintenance. If you don’t torque them to spec when that day comes around again you can loose a bead as with icons wheels there is no maintenance. If you loose a bolt it will be very hard to loose a bead.
 
LJtheunicorn said:
Have y’all seen these yet?! They’re an awesome idea, I just wish they came in a 15
Info video

Icon rebound pro link https://iconvehicledynamics.com/innerlock/
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​

@06TJ35's - this reply is for you -

I had posted this in @starkey480's build thread a little while ago. @mrblaine @jjvw and @Mike_H had some good responses and there was a good discussion as to where these fall place in the wheel hierarchy. See from post #2,834 onwards in the below page that I have linked.

If you read the specs, the manufacturer recommends usage only down to 10psi and not any further. So the consensus was that essentially these ICON wheels are for people who don't need real beadlocks but are probably reluctant to take regular wheels below 15psi (which you can already do with a good quality alloy wheel without needing the complexity of this wheel design). The wheels look good visually though, but these are not a replacement for a beadlock in any way.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/page-142
 
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06TJ35's said:
I think so. I think it also has to deal with traditional beadlocks needing constant maintenance. If you don’t torque them to spec when that day comes around again you can loose a bead as with icons wheels there is no maintenance. If you loose a bolt it will be very hard to loose a bead.
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Traditional beadlocks don't need "constant maintenance" where did you get that idea? I check the torque on the bolts every couple months or before I go on a road trip but rarely find more than a couple bolts out of 72 that need a little tightening. Do you even own traditional bead locks?
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Traditional beadlocks don't need "constant maintenance" where did you get that idea? I check the torque on the bolts every couple months or before I go on a road trip but rarely find more than a couple bolts out of 72 that need a little tightening. Do you even own traditional bead locks?
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Are you fully deflating the tire when you check the bolts for tightness?
 
mrblaine said:
Are you fully deflating the tire when you check the bolts for tightness?
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What’s the reason for deflating fully when checking torque? They’re deflated when installed. The torque on the ring compresses the tire bead equally. Then they are inflated. The thickness of the tire bead doesn’t change with inflation/deflation, does it?
 
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