Tweezer's 2004 LJ

tweezer

Jeep Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
May 24, 2022
Messages
198
Location
Ohio
Hi,

I have been lurking for a bit and this is my first post. I have been an off and on Jeep Wrangler owner for the last 15 years or so. I started with a 2005 TJ X, traded it in for a new 2012 JK Rubicon, and eventually landed in a 2015 JKU Sport that I bought with a lift and 37s. It drove poorly and I traded it in on a 2021 Mini Cooper S. Lol.

And then I got the itch and I always liked the LJs, so I started a search for either an LJ or an LJR. I was looking for a low mileage Jeep with as little rust as possible and ideally a hardtop. Low mileage LJRs are tougher to find, so I targeted LJs. This will be my daily driver, but I work from home and maybe drive 3-4k miles a year. I plan to keep this forever. We do some camping and light trails/fields, but nothing like what some of you do!

I found a 2004 LJ with 57k miles on it. It is clean and the frame and body appear to be in good shape. It has a 2” coil spacer lift and new 31” AT tires. I bought it site unseen and it was delivered today. I know, talk about stress inducing! I had seen some pictures of the underside, and climbing under it was the first thing I did. It had to be garage kept by the one owner, who drove it 3,400 miles a year. I will be taking it for a complete diagnostic next week. It runs and drives good, but I want fix anything it might need right off the start.

My plan is to build it right once, though it will take some time and I will pay to have most of the work done. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but I have no idea what I am doing and don’t have a ton of tools, jack stands, etc. I love the look of a lifted Jeep, but it needs to drive nicely, so my thoughts on my build include:
  • Savvy CE-9801SC 3” lift kit
  • Currie Correctlync
  • Rancho shocks
  • JKS rear trackbar
I am unsure of wheels/tires just yet, and I will go with a sye and driveshaft as needed. I am going to upgrade the sound system and do some other cosmetic type things as well.

Here are some pictures. I am stoked and can’t wait to make this mine!

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I will be updating the thread as work is completed, and I am certain I will have some questions, though this forum is freaking amazingly easy to search. I am very happy to have found it. I used to frequent jeepforum.com but I prefer this forum. Kudos to Chris for his work. I have already learned so much spending hours reading on this site.
 
The day after the Jeep was delivered, I had to go out of town for my Dad's burial and celebration of life. It was nice to have the distraction of the new to me Jeep to come home to after a tough long weekend. While we were gone the title arrived, so today I had it transferred and got plates and registration. Noticed a weird sound while driving it, almost like the hardtop is leaking air, but it didn't sound like that when I drove it prior to leaving. Also noticed some fluid on the garage floor beneath the front diff when I got back. I have an appointment to drop it off at my mechanic for Monday morning. It will remain in the garage until then. Thanks to posts by @Serbonze and others in a thread created by @Lucee, I plan on having my mechanic check and/or do the following:

Check for fluid leaks

Oil and filter change

Transmission fluid change

Brake fluid exchange

Inspect brakes

Front and rear differential oil change

Transfer case oil change

Replace spark plugs

Inspect all u-joints

Inspect front hubs

Coolant flush

Inspect radiator and hoses

Grease the zerks.

Replace air filter

Check/torque all suspension bolts

Check O2 sensors

Check/clean Idler Air Controller valve

Check/clean throttle body

Please let me know if there is anything I have missed. I am antsy to take off the hardtop and put on a bikini top, upgrade the stereo (the factory sub is blown), take off the doors, clay bar and wax, etc., but am waiting until I get it back from the mechanic. More to come soon.
 
I had the Jeep at the mechanics to day for a full diagnostic. I printed out my complete list of items to be checked and/or replaced. My guy told me he was struggling to find ways to spend my money. All the fluids are in great shape, the spark plugs are new, O2 sensors, u-joints, filters, etc. are also all in great shape. He said the zerks are full of grease and were recently greased. They did replace the blower resistor, since the fan was working only in 2 and 4. The entire shop was pretty much in awe of the condition of the Jeep, which was what I was hoping to hear. That said, there are two issues.

First, on the way home my CEL came on. I called them and will be taking it back for a scan in the AM. Could this be a result of changing out the resistor? It was scanned in the shop this morning and had no codes whatsoever.

Second, in the post above this one, I mentioned a sound I was hearing when driving. At first it sounded like a leaky hardtop, but I drove it again this weekend and it sounds more like grinding. My mechanic thinks it is a bearing in the front differential and he referred me to another shop. I have an appointment there early next week. It will for the most part remained parked until then. I did notice this weekend that the 3 screws that keep the windshield in place are MIA on both sides of the Jeep. I ordered new ones that will be here tomorrow.

I am hesitant to spend money until I know the cost to fix the front differential, but in the interim, I think I will do some shopping for the sound system upgrade. I have money set aside for this Jeep and it's burning a big hole in my pocket! :)
 
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Hi. Happy Saturday to all. An update and some questions.

My Jeep goes in on Tuesday AM to have the front differential bearing thing looked at. I took it back to the other mechanic early last week to have the CEL resolved. The code was for an O2 sensor. They cleared the code and let it run to see if it came back on, which it didn't. If I see the CEL again I will have all 4 O2 sensors replaced. At least this will allow me time to order 4 of the NTK sensors, which thanks to this forum, I read are best for a TJ. The differential leak I thought I had turned out to be something leaking on my wife's car. I have looked nearly everyday and there is nothing new under the Jeep, so that's a win.

I haven't been driving it, which is a bit of a bummer, but hoping that changes after Tuesday's work. In there interim I have amassed a long list of parts and things I would like to do. One thing I have spent a ton of time reading and thinking about is the lift. I am thinking 3" of suspension lift and 32" tires for now, knowing if it I do it right the first time, I can jump up in tires by switching out the springs and changing the gears. I originally was set on the Savvy 3" kit but have been looking at a more piecemeal approach to save a little bit of money. As I said, my want list is getting long.

So, I was hoping for some input on my current lift plan. I don't do a ton of off-road driving. It's mainly dirt roads, fields, and camping. We plan to buy a small teardrop camper we would tow.

The Savvy kit with the rear trackbar combined is $3295.

The piecemeal parts list below combined is $2895. Is doing it this way worth the roughly $400 saved, and secondly, am I missing anything in my list that would be included in the Savvy kit?

Savvy aluminum adjustable control arms
JKS 3” coil spring
JKS front adjustable trackbar
JKS rear adjustable trackbar
JKS quicker disconnect sway bar link
JKS Rear Adjustable Sway Bar End Link Kit
Currie front bump stop kit
Currie rear bump stop kit

Thank you! All and any feedback is welcomed.
 
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Dropped the Jeep off at the mechanics last night and heard back from him this afternoon. I was the late day appointment so there is still much to discover, but what I heard has left me feeling somewhat uneasy. I feel like I am going to be spending some money on the Jeep. He drove it and heard the noise and felt the vibration. He thought maybe it was a u-joint, but said it looks to be fairly new. He then thought maybe the balancing of the DS, but that was not it either. He then took a sample of front and rear diff oil and TC oil. The TC looks clean, but there was "metal" in both oils from the diffs. He is going to remove the covers tomorrow and take a look.

We reviewed potential causes/fixes, but he also mentioned one or both might need to be replaced. That is obviously pure conjecture, since he hasn't even taken the covers off, but I have been reading on the forum since 4pm and if its not the spider gears or a bearing, could I be looking at full rebuild? And, what's the likelihood of needing to rebuild BOTH differentials?

This is my first time to this mechanic, as I was referred by another, who has done a lot of work on my family's cars. He definitely knows much more about Jeeps than the first guy, but I am also approaching this with some caution.

This has also got my wheels spinning in the event I do need to rebuild one or both, this is an opportunity to go ahead and regear. Final goal is 33s, so I think 5.13 with the auto tranny. Can I run 31s with that ratio until I get lifted and buy tires?

I can't wait to hear from him tomorrow AM.
 
You are spending lots of money for nothing running 32" tires with all that crap. Do a body lift or just run 31" tires for awhile until you can afford the whole enchilada. The body lift is part of almost every build so it's a good investment.
 
Thanks, Paul. I am back and forth on 32s versus 33s/3"lift versus 4"lift. I definitely want to lose the puck lift. When you say whole enchilada, what else are you referencing?
 
I think he's saying "buy once, cry once". If your long term plan is to have your jeep on 35" tires with lockers and gears don't waste your money buying 33's now. Looking at your list you have the JKS quick diconnects but if you bought the savvy kit you'd get their antirock bar....it is so much better. I've had both and I can tell you I wish I had run the antirock from the beginning and saved my money.
 
Re: your mechanic

Clear the code and see if it comes back...that sounds like he has no idea what he is doing and he will just be guessing and changing parts instead of actual diagnosis. Fixing this thing up will cost you a fortune if that's the case!
 
If he has to do anything at all with the front diff, I'd suggest to just go ahead and get the re-gear done. Gearing should be manageable with 31's for a while, especially with that insane OD gearing. Nothing wrong with piecing the lift together with quality parts to save some coin.
 
I think he's saying "buy once, cry once". If your long term plan is to have your jeep on 35" tires with lockers and gears don't waste your money buying 33's now. Looking at your list you have the JKS quick diconnects but if you bought the savvy kit you'd get their antirock bar....it is so much better. I've had both and I can tell you I wish I had run the antirock from the beginning and saved my money.
Agreed. Thanks for the feedback! I think I am going to go ahead with the Savvy 4" kit and 33" tires. I don't plan to go any bigger than that, since it is mainly going to see pavement.
Re: your mechanic

Clear the code and see if it comes back...that sounds like he has no idea what he is doing and he will just be guessing and changing parts instead of actual diagnosis. Fixing this thing up will cost you a fortune if that's the case!
Totally! The mechanic I am working with currently seems a lot more experienced with Jeeps and has his stuff together. While the first was nice, he is not going to touch my Jeep again.
If he has to do anything at all with the front diff, I'd suggest to just go ahead and get the re-gear done. Gearing should be manageable with 31's for a while, especially with that insane OD gearing. Nothing wrong with piecing the lift together with quality parts to save some coin.

It looks like this is the plan. He needs to do work to both the front and the rear, so I might as well regear at the same time. Thanks for the feedback!
 
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Update on my Jeep...per my mechanic, both differentials need to be rebuilt or replaced. There is considerable rust inside both (which makes me think WTF? and wish I had a better history. Did it sit for a long time with diff leaks? How did the water get inside?) and there is flaking on the spider gears and the R&P. He doesn't want to rebuild them and thinks I should replace them. With there being rust inside of both, I can see going that route. I am about this close to just buying a pair of the G2 Core 44s at 5.13 ratio and a Detroit locker and be done. I definitely do not want to buy refurbished parts. And, it has to be cheaper to rebuild.

So, then I am thinking the Savvy 4" kit, 2 new G2 axle assemblies, Currie steering, sye and DS, new shocks, new wheels, 33" tires, and upgrade the brakes. Then drive it have as much fun as I can. Lol. I have been planning this venture for a bit and have the money. It's just not how I planned for it to go but what can you do, right?

I'd love feedback if you have it.
 
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Closer to $8k, but yes, it has taken me over 24 hours to accept it as an option. The emoji is perfect.

I was figuring the price to install, ball joints, knuckles/steering swap (looks like you want new steering parts anyway). Good luck, I'll be following along. I think I would just go for a regear and new bearings but then you still need to buy the lockers and could probably sell your old Dana 44 for a few dollars if you go for replacement. I'd be weary of any aftermarket replacement anything (including axles) but no actual experience with "G2".

Just wondering if he sent you any pics of the rust or showed you in person or anything?
 
Thanks, Vtx. I have been thinking that approach too. Or just picking it up for a second opinion and take it to someone who does gear work and see what they say. I haven't seen the rust or a picture of it. Work has been a crusher this week, but I am hoping to get over there tomorrow. He seemed surprised at what I am guessing is the amount of rust, which I took to mean it was not ideal. He has done a lot of work on Jeeps at his garage and at a minimum can speak intelligently about them. I am processing towards a decision.
 
Thinking about this and forgive my over simplification, but for the Dana 44, if I buy a locker it replaces the spider gears, right? I would then just need need the R&P and bearings. Add in the front rebuild/regear and I have to be less than $8K. The housing would need to be clean of the rust but this seems like an alternative.
 
I am babbling tonight; I shouldn't drink after dinner. Lol. When I was young my Dad had a CJ7. I loved that Jeep and it's why I am on my fourth and hopefully final Jeep. He died in January after a long fight. He did well for himself and left my brother and I some money. I set aside a portion of the cash to buy and build a Jeep. I feel like a found a worthwhile keeper, but this rust in the differentials is bothersome. It only has 57K miles and is incredibly clean. How do the diffs have rust? The mechanic who has the Jeep now said other than the diffs, this is a forever Jeep. I am still bothered, so I am inclined to just replace both axles and move one, but $8k on axles seems CRAZY. Lol. My wife says to just replace them and move on...she knows me too well. Ha.
 
Sorry to hear about your father, that has to be tough at any age. There are a few people on here with the G2 axles that wheel pretty hard in Moab and out west that can give first hand testimoney, but if I had the money, I would go G2 axles and replace everything. The rest of your build list looks good.