How do I strap my TJ to a trailer?

You shouldn't use any straps at all the shear weight of the vehicle will keep it in place .... I'm sure !
 
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Cross straps is the only correct way. Hoping none here ever get into a situation that proves this.

I disagree. If the straps are crossed & one breaks or otherwise fails, there is no way that the Jeep can be kept from moving from side to side & will move in the direction where the remaining strap is attached to the trailer. In all likelihood, there would be enough slack that one end of the Jeep would fall completely off if the trailer.
 
I disagree. If the straps are crossed & one breaks or otherwise fails, there is no way that the Jeep can be kept from moving from side to side & will move in the direction where the remaining strap is attached to the trailer. In all likelihood, there would be enough slack that one end of the Jeep would fall completely off if the trailer.

Using your rationale explain how it is any different with the straps inline? All methods will work as long as all straps are intact...difference being straps crossed will better prevent side to side movement.
 
Using your rationale explain how it is any different with the straps inline? All methods will work as long as all straps are intact...difference being straps crossed will better prevent side to side movement.

Just draw it out. One rear one breaks cross strapped, what movement is allowed? Forward movement is, which starts to pull the rear the direction of the strap. Without a barrier it will be off the trailer in short order.

Play it out with straight straps. One breaks - the rest remain under tension.

It's not very hard to understand, but you refuse to consider any other view.
 
Just draw it out. One rear one breaks cross strapped, what movement is allowed? Forward movement is, which starts to pull the rear the direction of the strap. Without a barrier it will be off the trailer in short order.

Play it out with straight straps. One breaks - the rest remain under tension.

It's not very hard to understand, but you refuse to consider any other view.

It's actually very easy to understand. It does not matter which method you use...if one breaks it will allow sideways movement regardless. It is silly to assume otherwise. My point is with all straps intact you will have greater control over side movement. Your obsession with a single broken strap is baffling.
 
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It's actually very easy to understand. It does not matter which method you use...if one breaks it will allow sideways movement regardless. It is silly to assume otherwise. My point is with all straps intact you will have greater control over side movement. Your obsession with a single broken strap is baffling.

No one is debating there can be some sideways movement in that scenario. But it's much more limited with straight straps. The issue is crossed not only allows sideways but forward and back too.
 
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No one is debating there can be some sideways movement in that scenario. But it's much more limited with straight straps.

If you have a single broken strap there is no limiting factor. Inline does poorly in side motion because of the angles involved. Crossed might not be as effective as inline in fore/aft motion, but it is hands down better side to side simply because of the angles involved.

Envision a properly secured vehicle on a trailer that has been turned on it's side...which method do you really believe is going to better limit said vehicle from slipping sideways? You can't get enough tension inline to equal what crossed/angled can withstand.
 
If you have a single broken strap there is no limiting factor. Inline does poorly in side motion because of the angles involved. Crossed might not be as effective as inline in fore/aft motion, but it is hands down better side to side simply because of the angles involved.

Envision a properly secured vehicle on a trailer that has been turned on it's side...which method do you really believe is going to better limit said vehicle from slipping sideways? You can't get enough tension inline to equal what crossed/angled can withstand.

Welcome to the forum. We'll just agree to disagree.
 
Welcome to the forum. We'll just agree to disagree.

Thanks - I just employ methods that best cover the most bad news scenarios in the simplest manner.

Just to be clear on the subject...the contention being made by most here seems to be concentrated on a strap failure. That has got to be the most impossible scenario one can come up with. I have never seen a strap fail in my lifetime...not even the most abused, ratty looking strap for that matter. A strap will never break on it's own...it would take enormous strain exerted on it to bring it to failure. You can't possibly exert that much force on a strap by hand which means if it failed something catastrophic has happened and you would certainly know right then. Who here would then continue down the road in that condition? I submit if something has happened that caused a strap to fail you are likely in big trouble and going nowhere at that point. With that said lets put the "broken strap scenario" to rest.
 
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If you have a single broken strap there is no limiting factor. Inline does poorly in side motion because of the angles involved. Crossed might not be as effective as inline in fore/aft motion, but it is hands down better side to side simply because of the angles involved.

Envision a properly secured vehicle on a trailer that has been turned on it's side...which method do you really believe is going to better limit said vehicle from slipping sideways? You can't get enough tension inline to equal what crossed/angled can withstand.

What every crossed strap puke fully overlooks is all load rated rigging decreases in capacity for use as the angle increases from straight. The decrease is not slight either.

Inline does as poorly side to side as crossed does simply by virtue of decreased load capacity. The two straps at one end have to work in unison to achieve the side to side stability. Since the vast majority of the load is fore and aft, pulling on crossed straps in those directions with their diminished capacity and the absolute need to have them work as a single unit dictates that they have no more side to side stability than straight straps.

I'll bet you cross your safety chains under the trailer tongue too.
 
What every crossed strap puke fully overlooks is all load rated rigging decreases in capacity for use as the angle increases from straight. The decrease is not slight either.

Inline does as poorly side to side as crossed does simply by virtue of decreased load capacity. The two straps at one end have to work in unison to achieve the side to side stability. Since the vast majority of the load is fore and aft, pulling on crossed straps in those directions with their diminished capacity and the absolute need to have them work as a single unit dictates that they have no more side to side stability than straight straps.

I'll bet you cross your safety chains under the trailer tongue too.

I thought you cross t safety chains so that if the trailer becomes unhooked then the chains create a cradle for the trailer tongue so it doesn't drag the ground and rub the paint off???


Before you jump my ass, that is all sarcasm.
 
Since the vast majority of the load is fore and aft...
This really is the key takeaway, IMO.


But I can't help but comment on this little tidbit...
Envision a properly secured vehicle on a trailer that has been turned on it's side...
Something tells me I'm going to have plenty of other things to worry about if this is the case.
 
I’ve always used chain and binders, as straight as I can around the axles

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hauling YJ and TJ around Europe, 25kmls+ over the last 8yrs.

4 straps through the wheels (as high-up as possible to create downforce) and two wheel stops. Checking straps 20mls after setting off (and with every break/ fuel stop)


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This setup is no longer fully legal across Europe, as cars must be tied down across the wheel…..
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i been considering something like this in the last pic right here, no heavy chains or binders and i'll have nice fat tires to hold onto. they make them with a weave fanned out like a net also.
 
hauling YJ and TJ around Europe, 25kmls+ over the last 8yrs.

4 straps through the wheels (as high-up as possible to create downforce) and two wheel stops. Checking straps 20mls after setting off (and with every break/ fuel stop)


View attachment 346283

View attachment 346284


This setup is no longer fully legal across Europe, as cars must be tied down across the wheel…..
View attachment 346285

We mostly live in the land of the free :)

I wouldn't do your previous method because the main motion to mitigate is forward/backward. The lower the contact point the better if you're going through the wheel openings, otherwise you're fighting with tire rotation under load. Probably fine for the rear (though it's putting stress on the drive train I wouldn't want) the front will rotate in short order effectively loosening the strap.
 
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