Wizard Recovery Gear Hawse

Mine came with some small chips in the anodizing that I touched up with paint. Do you think that’s going to affect the longevity of the finish?
 
Was it inside another white box that was inside the medium flat rate? I'm trying to figure out how it got damaged so I can prevent it going forward. I'm glad to trade you out for one that isn't damaged.

It was not in another box. The spots missing anodizing are mostly at the hard edges of the mounting holes front and back. I don’t think it was shipping damage. I’m fine keeping it as long as you think some paint is enough to keep it from corroding. The Jeep is not a garage Queen so it has tons of other touch up spots.
 
It was not in another box. The spots missing anodizing are mostly at the hard edges of the mounting holes front and back. I don’t think it was shipping damage. I’m fine keeping it as long as you think some paint is enough to keep it from corroding. The Jeep is not a garage Queen so it has tons of other touch up spots.

If you are talking about tiny little spots at the holes, not much we can do about that. That is the result of them hanging them on wires to anodize them.
 
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If you are talking about tiny little spots at the holes, not much we can do about that. That is the result of them hanging them on wires to anodize them.

I figured it was nothing major. That’s why I never contacted you directly. Just curious if painting those spots will be enough with exposure to Salty NJ roads
 
I figured it was nothing major. That’s why I never contacted you directly. Just curious if painting those spots will be enough with exposure to Salty NJ roads

I see that I overlooked something pretty important. The anodizing layer is actually electrically non-conductive so there is not an easy way to avoid those spots since the wires they hang them on have to touch the base metal to conduct electricity to the part to create the conversion layer.
 
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Mine came with some small chips in the anodizing that I touched up with paint. Do you think that’s going to affect the longevity of the finish?

Of course chips in the finish will effect the life of the hawse. These small chips will turn into huge aluminum oxidation boils in just one season.
 
Mr Blaine asked me to help him validate the hard black anodized finish on his new hawse fairlead product - being that I'm in Florida and the sun completely root-beered my cheapie that used to be black in about 1 year.

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Old on top, Wizard hawse on bottom.


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A set of VERY nice stainless hardware came with it, unfortunately, I was unable to use it due to the "Rough Country" winch plate placing the winch so damn close to the hawse mount, that I had to use shorter bolts and jam nuts. Nothing whatsoever to do with Blaine's product, I had similar problems with the old hawse as well.

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Barely enough room for even the jam nut with a shorter bolt. Standard parts aren't, interchangeable parts won't. The "unsupervised pseudo-standard" of winches and plates means you'll end up with problems like this from time-to-time.

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I had been putting off re-spooling the line for several months, this made me to ahead and get it done. Note the TRE thimble is starting to fade.

I suspect that there'll be zero problems with the anodizing if it was done right. We used the same treatment for aluminum parts we bolted onto offshore moorings when I worked in a marine related field. Some of those things were used literally for decades and held up quite fine - never corroded nor changed color! But - this is why we test....

Wow that hawse is going to burn your rope, its radius are way to tight. You would be better off buying a Harbor Freight hawse.
 
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Wow that hawse is going to burn your rope, its radius are way to tight. You would be better off buying a Harbor Freight hawse.

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Wow that hawse is going to burn your rope, its radius are way to tight. You would be better off buying a Harbor Freight hawse.

How long will it take to burn the rope? At least a few years, since mine hasn't yet.