A better visual of the problem. There is no way that I can envision where a decent side pull won't run this receiver and or the insert.
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That doesn’t even have the minimum edge distance for tear out.
A better visual of the problem. There is no way that I can envision where a decent side pull won't run this receiver and or the insert.
View attachment 362314
That doesn’t even have the minimum edge distance for tear out.
A better visual of the problem. There is no way that I can envision where a decent side pull won't ruin this receiver and or the insert.
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Apparently they consider the 2-5/8” to be the more common pin depth as that’s the only one currently available. That’s about a 4:1 lever in that hitch receiver, what could go wrong?I'd pay a decent amount to see the look on the face of the owner of Brennan's Garage with his insert in that hitch all pinned up. There'd be some new warnings and what not posted up after that.
That is pure crap. It is bad enough when Warn made their bumper 1.5 inch when their own receiver shackle bracket was designed for 2.5 inch. And we know full well someone will use the Warn’s receiver shackle with that bumper.
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There’s probably a side loading disclaimer on that giant sash weight.
There’s probably a side loading disclaimer on that giant sash weight.
While annoying, it makes perfect sense in TJ context.
Everybody with a TJ wants a bumper that at least looks like it would maintain a good departure angle, so they won't buy one with a receiver tube hanging out 4". Manufacturer buries it, but there's no access inside or in front of the bumper for the pin so they put the hole on the outside, pin depth be damned.
I only have a 2.5" depth on mine because I have an LJ with a high clearance bumper and I could put the pin between the crossmembers. I'm not gonna be using mine for recovery though, even with 3/16" steel it's too bendy for my tastes with only 3 sides of a box...bike rack or hitch carriers only.
The LJ certainly helps us a bit. Have you seen the couple guys that also bolt the end of the receiver to our extra crossmember? I didn't think about that while doing mine, but intend to fix that oversight eventually.
The LJ certainly helps us a bit. Have you seen the couple guys that also bolt the end of the receiver to our extra crossmember? I didn't think about that while doing mine, but intend to fix that oversight eventually.
I've always bolted the end of the receiver tube to the other crossmember when I do a Swag style rear plate. I also set the rear edge at near flush with a 2" pin depth that you access between the two.
I didn't do the bolt up for pull out strength but more for rotation up or down of the rear face. Stick a hitch in to move a Jeep trailer around the storage yard and the leverage will try to rotate the inboard end up with a lot of force.
I didn't do the bolt up for pull out strength but more for rotation up or down of the rear face. Stick a hitch in to move a Jeep trailer around the storage yard and the leverage will try to rotate the inboard end up with a lot of force.
I often wonder why folks don't attribute the full level of evil that a bike rack is appropriately. Maybe it is due to being confused about the height and how close that is to the hitch or what, I don't know but I do know if you take a long lever with 40-50 lbs. on it at the longest part of the lever, that is an astounding amount of force once the dynamic movement kicks in. That back and forth will destroy stuff in a hurry.I use mine mostly for a bike rack and found it pretty bouncy until I put angle iron on opposite corners on the gas tank crossmember around the receiver tube. I know better now though.
I don't really know that answer. I would do moderate stuff, I would not do what I did to the Suburban with the stock rig and receiver hitch to get it unstuck.Would you yank on yours if you needed to, or is that not advisable?