OP
What did you do to your other vehicle today?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
You know, that's also one of the comments I get from a LOT of people. My neighbor was doing a very aggressive job of trying to convince me to do it a few weeks back (he has an almost identical shop to me, complete with lift, and he's always restoring some old car or truck). On my daily drivers, I have no OCD when it comes to form, only function. Here's why I didn't do that. First, being an engineer, I definitely am afflicted with OCD, but in the many decades since I graduated and began my true "education," I've learned to temper it - at times. My problem is that once I go down the rabbit hole of re-coating the frame, I simply can't half-ass it. If I did that, it would have to be stripped down to the bare frame, blasted in every nook and cranny to white steel, and then properly coated (probably powder-coated) before reassembly. I see doing anything else as temporary and for appearance only. Blasting it with Rustoleum won't last very long, so why do it? I don't have the ability to blast or powder-coat it myself, so now I'm into real money again if I am going to fully restore the frame. So here we are - nice shiny-new drivetrain components in a rusty frame. The frame is still very sound, so that's how it will go back together, and the iron oxide formation will continue unabated...
As long as you have a plan
YMMV, but I've had good luck with Rustoleum, and I live in an area that uses a lot of salt for Winter road maintenance.
OP
As long as you have a plan
I'd trust RustOleum over powder coating in an application like this.
I use rustoleum all the time to touch up my powdercoat. Can’t tell the difference.
Rustoleumed the last bumper I installed and it’s holding up just fine.
OP
Powder coat is great stuff until water gets under it - esp. on Aluminum where it turns into a hot mess.
OP
Actually got around to replacing the backup bulbs on the old MBZ with nice brite LEDs. It was a highly technical procedure that took about 15 seconds per side!
Higher wattage ? or just Higher Kelvin ?
OP
Higher "equivalent wattage" as well as higher Kelvin.
The continuing saga that is the Expedition expedition:
Finally got it all back to one piece on Saturday, but didn't start it. Sunday, I checked all fluids one last time, and turned the key. It started fine, but didn't sound right. However, when I put it together, I didn't fill the torque converter, so I knew that the transmission would have to pump it full before I could top off the ATF, so I "write it off" as transmission-pumping-noise. I let it run for a brief time, and then checked and topped off the ATF. Then, I attempt to restart it, and the starter motor spins, but without the starter gear extending. So, I take a lunch break. Afterwards, I pull the starter and head to O'Reilly's for a replacement (it was replaced in 2015 with a new house-brand with a lifetime warranty).
After returning, I installed the new starter, start it up. Still sounds odd. I shut if off immediately. Check ATF level (fine), and re-start. Or not. Same thing. This time, instead of taking a break, I immediately investigate. The engine is still room temp to the touch, but the starter is smokin' hot. Blaming it on crappy store-brand parts, I return to O'Reilly's (it's a 40 mile round trip from the boonies), and get a third starter. I get back, go through the same routine. And for a third time, it won't start a second time, with the same symptoms. This time, I notice that the solenoid is smokin' hot, but the starter motor itself is just warm. At this point, I decided to remove the third starter, put up my tools, and call it a weekend.
At lunch today, I ran over to O'Reilly's to get a fourth starter, but I will do a ton of diagnostics before I install it this time. It appears as though the solenoid is staying energized after starting is complete. I think that was the odd sound I was hearing. I also picked up a new battery (actually, my wife did), as the old one load-tested marginal, and I don't want to worry about it. My plan is to replace the battery cables, since they are 21 years old and not in the best of shape, clean all ground locations, replace the starter relay, and then check continuity/resistance/voltage drop on all lines in the starter circuit, including checking for shorts to ground or battery-positive.
For those keeping tabs, here's a list of the components replaced so far:
Torque Converter
Transmission (Rebuild)
Transmission Dust Covers
Engine Long Block (OEM Ford Reman)
Fuel Injectors
Thermostat
Coils
Intake Manifold
Vacuum Fittings
PCV Valve and Elbow
Front and Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Front Shock Top Mount Isolators
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump and Gasket
Transfer Case Shift Motor
A/C Accumulator/Dryer
Transfer Case (Rebuilt by me)
Front Body Mounts
Heater Hose Connectors
Serpentine Belt, Idler, and Tensioner
Idle Air Control Valve and Gasket
Hood Lift Supports
License Plate Light Bulbs
Radiator
Lower Radiator Hose
Added Backup Camera
Added GMRS Radio
Starter
Battery
Oh, the joy of reviving old vehicles. I just want to finish this project so that I can start on the LJ! My mood is better today. Yesterday afternoon, I was not pleasant to be around...
Finally got it all back to one piece on Saturday, but didn't start it. Sunday, I checked all fluids one last time, and turned the key. It started fine, but didn't sound right. However, when I put it together, I didn't fill the torque converter, so I knew that the transmission would have to pump it full before I could top off the ATF, so I "write it off" as transmission-pumping-noise. I let it run for a brief time, and then checked and topped off the ATF. Then, I attempt to restart it, and the starter motor spins, but without the starter gear extending. So, I take a lunch break. Afterwards, I pull the starter and head to O'Reilly's for a replacement (it was replaced in 2015 with a new house-brand with a lifetime warranty).
After returning, I installed the new starter, start it up. Still sounds odd. I shut if off immediately. Check ATF level (fine), and re-start. Or not. Same thing. This time, instead of taking a break, I immediately investigate. The engine is still room temp to the touch, but the starter is smokin' hot. Blaming it on crappy store-brand parts, I return to O'Reilly's (it's a 40 mile round trip from the boonies), and get a third starter. I get back, go through the same routine. And for a third time, it won't start a second time, with the same symptoms. This time, I notice that the solenoid is smokin' hot, but the starter motor itself is just warm. At this point, I decided to remove the third starter, put up my tools, and call it a weekend.
At lunch today, I ran over to O'Reilly's to get a fourth starter, but I will do a ton of diagnostics before I install it this time. It appears as though the solenoid is staying energized after starting is complete. I think that was the odd sound I was hearing. I also picked up a new battery (actually, my wife did), as the old one load-tested marginal, and I don't want to worry about it. My plan is to replace the battery cables, since they are 21 years old and not in the best of shape, clean all ground locations, replace the starter relay, and then check continuity/resistance/voltage drop on all lines in the starter circuit, including checking for shorts to ground or battery-positive.
For those keeping tabs, here's a list of the components replaced so far:
Torque Converter
Transmission (Rebuild)
Transmission Dust Covers
Engine Long Block (OEM Ford Reman)
Fuel Injectors
Thermostat
Coils
Intake Manifold
Vacuum Fittings
PCV Valve and Elbow
Front and Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Front Shock Top Mount Isolators
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump and Gasket
Transfer Case Shift Motor
A/C Accumulator/Dryer
Transfer Case (Rebuilt by me)
Front Body Mounts
Heater Hose Connectors
Serpentine Belt, Idler, and Tensioner
Idle Air Control Valve and Gasket
Hood Lift Supports
License Plate Light Bulbs
Radiator
Lower Radiator Hose
Added Backup Camera
Added GMRS Radio
Starter
Battery
Oh, the joy of reviving old vehicles. I just want to finish this project so that I can start on the LJ! My mood is better today. Yesterday afternoon, I was not pleasant to be around...
The Expedition expedition is on the up-swing again - I figured out my starter problem! Some idiot (yours truly) put the battery charge lead from the alternator on the wrong terminal of the starter relay. As a result, instead of being connected to battery positive, the alternator charge lead was connected directly to the starter solenoid. Oops! That's one way to burn up starters. I'm definitely old enough to know better!
company truck went to the shop to look into the 6.6 duramax head gasket problem.
drove my rusty beater pickup during the day for work after dropping off the work truck. my truck lasted about 6 hours before the exhaust manifold to catback triangular pipe flange bit the dust and left me with a "open header" dump... it was stupid loud.
pulled in the garage, measured the pipe and went to chase down a split flange repair kit and manages to chase the threads on the manifold studs clean enough to reuse surprisingly. ended up finding out my repair kit was slightly too big and didnt work after all and ordered another split flange online.
at this point ive fluid filmed the jeep underside due to being 2 vehicles down and needing a work vehicle.
So the following day I return home and back into the garage, not even out of the jeep yet and im instantly smelling gasoline in the cab.
garage reeks of fuel.
wander over to the truck waiting on exhaust parts to arrive in the mail and notice the underside of the fuel tank is wet with gasoline.
pulled the bed mat and checked the access hole I cut when the pump failed in a parking lot earlier this year and everything around it was dry, no leaks at the new fuel line fittings or anything... It's the 34 gallon (128 liter) tank.
it never fails... when the original pump failed the tank was full... this tank failed, it too was full. rounded up about 30 gallons worth of fuel cans and siphoned the fuel from the tank last night and swapped the tanks. im in it for about $200 so far and the original exhaust issue isnt fixed yet. ugh. observed while I had the tank out that I need to order parts for the rear brake supply line too which I replace about 4 years ago, that pipe is hella flaked and about to burst at the worst possible time during winter. I despise working on rusty shit... but if I dont repair it the jeep could look like this.
drove my rusty beater pickup during the day for work after dropping off the work truck. my truck lasted about 6 hours before the exhaust manifold to catback triangular pipe flange bit the dust and left me with a "open header" dump... it was stupid loud.
pulled in the garage, measured the pipe and went to chase down a split flange repair kit and manages to chase the threads on the manifold studs clean enough to reuse surprisingly. ended up finding out my repair kit was slightly too big and didnt work after all and ordered another split flange online.
at this point ive fluid filmed the jeep underside due to being 2 vehicles down and needing a work vehicle.
So the following day I return home and back into the garage, not even out of the jeep yet and im instantly smelling gasoline in the cab.
garage reeks of fuel.
wander over to the truck waiting on exhaust parts to arrive in the mail and notice the underside of the fuel tank is wet with gasoline.
pulled the bed mat and checked the access hole I cut when the pump failed in a parking lot earlier this year and everything around it was dry, no leaks at the new fuel line fittings or anything... It's the 34 gallon (128 liter) tank.
it never fails... when the original pump failed the tank was full... this tank failed, it too was full. rounded up about 30 gallons worth of fuel cans and siphoned the fuel from the tank last night and swapped the tanks. im in it for about $200 so far and the original exhaust issue isnt fixed yet. ugh. observed while I had the tank out that I need to order parts for the rear brake supply line too which I replace about 4 years ago, that pipe is hella flaked and about to burst at the worst possible time during winter. I despise working on rusty shit... but if I dont repair it the jeep could look like this.
hardtailpan
TJ Enthusiast
Did some random stuff on my old Dodge Ram. Put my plow pump cover on, pulled my front door panels, popped out a dent and fluid filmed inside the doors. I didn't have much time to do anything today, so I'm glad I got some stuff done.
hardtailpan
TJ Enthusiast
I feel your pain man, this is why i fluid film the sh*t outta my truck every year. Sucks when you go to work underneath it cause that stuff is everywhere, but I haven't replaced a brake line yet, they all look great, and it's an 05.
I had never heard of fluid film until about 4-5 years back & even then didnt believe in it. changed my mind once I used it, bolts no longer fuse together with rust.. paint doesn't flake off when corrosion gets behind it. just stinks like a farm for a few days but other than that its good stuff.
this truck is a Michigan truck with about 288k on the odometer and never had a taste of rust protection ever. wheel wells are full of holes, beds full of holes, cab corners disappeared long ago and if I lift the vinyl floor on the drivers side I can see the ground below through the Swiss cheese holes
but its a half decent beater truck you dont care if its rusted or dented but the 1996 non oil burning 5.7 small block and 4L80E are still strong so it has a tad more life left in it even if your losing parts when driving down the road.
hardtailpan
TJ Enthusiast
I had never heard of fluid film until about 4-5 years back & even then didnt believe in it. changed my mind once I used it, bolts no longer fuse together with rust.. paint doesn't flake off when corrosion gets behind it. just stinks like a farm for a few days but other than that its good stuff.
this truck is a Michigan truck with about 288k on the odometer and never had a taste of rust protection ever. wheel wells are full of holes, beds full of holes, cab corners disappeared long ago and if I lift the vinyl floor on the drivers side I can see the ground below through the Swiss cheese holes
HehHeh, this cracked me up. Been there, done that.
I got this truck in 08 (it's an 05) and it only had 7000 miles on it. I didn't start fluid filming it immediately but it didn't see much salt as I was traveling a ton for work, and if it did get salted, i washed it as soon as i could. It held up nicely. I've been fluid filming it for many years now and its amazing. Yeah, that smell, ugh, but it goes away. If you have to do any work on it, change oil, etc, you get shit all over your arms and clothes. That sucks. But it's better than having to buy a new $50k truck!
The cab corners show no rust, neither do the rockers. I pull out all the plugs on the inside of the rockers and blow fluid film in there as well. Salt got the bed before I started fluid filming it (typical dodge wheel well rust), but I replaced it with one from texas and now I fluid film the sh*t out of it as well.
It's not a dedicated work truck, it's my daily, so I want it presentable. She still looks good, though I'm definitely chasing rust at this point. The rear doors are starting to rust at the bottom, and I've got a pretty good rust hole coming thru the side of my hood?! It's not thru yet so doesn't look bad, but by spring it will look like shit. The sheet metal tubing thing that holds the front grill on is disintegrating as well. There's some people up here that go down south and buy up body panels and beds and such and bring em' up here to sell. As stuff gets bad, I pick up some of these. I've got a rear door i'll put on in the spring, and I clearly need to find a good hood.
Cool thing is tho, the cab and frame are still in almost perfect shape. As long as that holds up, i'm gonna keep running this old girl.
Found 4 drops of oil on the driveway, crawled underneath and believe my oil pan gasket is leaking on the F150. Its not on the typical flywheel spot for an RMS. Its also supposed to be a high of -1, so needless to say I'll put my drip pan underneath for now and keep the level topped off until its warm enough to spend a day on my back underneath and dropping the pan.
Installed a new Sony XAV-3200 double din in my Son's 98 XJ. Got the stereo and all the gear from Crutchfield. Some minor cutting needing to install a double din in the XJ, just a bit of the sub dash, but they also provided the aluminum tape to seal the cut back up. Boy is pretty stoked with the upgrade. I'm just hoping he will utilize the hands free options a bit more.
OP
Changed the oil in the old MBZ, then changed its headlite bulbs. The headlites seem to be getting dim - I don't know if its from 15 year old bulbs or I'm just used to the Jeep. As I had a set of new H4s onhand, I put them in. If I'm still unhappy, I'll get a set of beamtechs like I put in the Jeep. Now in the middle of sewing a new "WheelSkin" steering wheel cover on - the old one took a powder due to hand sanitizer use (who knew?) - forgot how tedious this is to do. However, its going better than the last time about 20 years ago as I can get the lacing really tight thanx to my corset hook. "Tight is Right"
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