31" tires with 2-3" lifts?

This hits so close to home for me. I mean no disrespect to the folks here who can launch these large scale attacks on their TJs, but I'm just not there. The bank account won't allow for it. My other responsibilities also help determine what I can do, and when. Yes, I could throw everything on the credit card, but I discovered something about doing that: The credit card companies expect to be paid back! The bastards! :mad: :D And as for it being "cool" or not, that's all subjective. If I wanted to throw fender skirts and whitewall tires on a lowered TJ, and I thought it was cool, then that's what I'd do (I think I just threw up a little bit...). I have great respect for quality workmanship. It trumps style (cool) in my eyes. :)

100% agree


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2.5" BDS Lift Kit with 31"x10.5":

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Stg58, nooB question if I may, how did you settle on 1.5" lift?
Interesting story, and not a noob question at all.

When I got my TJ SE several years ago, it was bone stock on 235-75R15 all season tires. The SE's have very light spring from the factory and I tend to take a lot of crap with me into the backwoods. Loaded the poor girl right down in fact. When I was wheeling around, two things were happening with some regularity. The suspension bottomed out. The gas tank skid banged off stuff. Both were bad. To address those problems and the fact that all season tires suck for my use, I researched and bought a set of 31" KO2's. Improved things somewhat.

Then I researched further for very low or no lift springs that had a higher spring rate. H&R's fit the bill. All in, that fixed the weight capacity issue, and I don't bottom out the suspension any longer. Rarely do I get to banging on the gas tank skid. The 1-1/2" of lift is just where the solutions to my problems ended up. I didn't plan the lift height, it just happened.

Does that make sense? I build to address specific, known issues.
 
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I have since put new Cooper 31’s instead of the one that came on it when I purchased it a couple years ago, it has a 3” lift. After riding the trails with others with 33” I saw no reason to put 33” on mine.
Your spare looks like it's a wider tire than those on the ground...optical illusion?

Love the look of your TJ, by the way, really nice setup. A bit of a preview for when I get the oem half doors I bought painted silver and put on next summer...
 
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I have to disagree that going to 33’s is way more expensive, especially after the long list of mods you guys came up with for 31’s! LOL. I think the only difference is a TCase Shifter and Black Magic Brake Pads, neither of which is entirely necessary. Run a 32” spare and your golden. This is assuming a 2.5” SL and 1.25” BL. You can still run stock control arms. If you have the right transmission, no re-gear is necessary. So for a whopping $300 at the most, your into 33’s. Not saying you want to be, just that it’s not much more expensive if you have the right parameters. What’s much more expensive is going to 35’s.
 
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Your spare looks like it's a wider tire than those on the ground...optical illusion?

Love the look of your TJ, by the way, really nice setup. A bit of a preview for when I get the oem half doors I bought painted silver and put on next summer...

Optical Illusion, all the Maxxis tires were the same size as is all 5 Cooper tires I replaced them with. I replaced the Maxxis tires because they were hard with age, they work much better in slick conditions both on and off road. I put the turbo on after I got the Cooper’s on.
 
I run the 33's coopers which has been the best tire I've ever put on a 4x4 other than as they wear they do get a little noisier but we do have a 4 inch skyjacker lift and the sye kit the 33's would fit with a 3 inch lift
 
I have to disagree that going to 33’s is way more expensive, especially after the long list of mods you guys came up with for 31’s! LOL. I think the only difference is a TCase Shifter and Black Magic Brake Pads, neither of which is entirely necessary. Run a 32” spare and your golden. This is assuming a 2.5” SL and 1.25” BL. You can still run stock control arms. If you have the right transmission, no re-gear is necessary. So for a whopping $300 at the most, your into 33’s. Not saying you want to be, just that it’s not much more expensive if you have the right parameters. What’s much more expensive is going to 35’s.

Did you adjust your bump stops?
 
I have to disagree that going to 33’s is way more expensive, especially after the long list of mods you guys came up with for 31’s! LOL. I think the only difference is a TCase Shifter and Black Magic Brake Pads, neither of which is entirely necessary. Run a 32” spare and your golden. This is assuming a 2.5” SL and 1.25” BL. You can still run stock control arms. If you have the right transmission, no re-gear is necessary. So for a whopping $300 at the most, your into 33’s. Not saying you want to be, just that it’s not much more expensive if you have the right parameters. What’s much more expensive is going to 35’s.

Question though, on 31's would you have to adjust bump stops, IMHO it would be very little if any at all. That being so, would you have a smidge more upward travel on 31's than 33's?
 
Question though, on 31's would you have to adjust bump stops, IMHO it would be very little if any at all. That being so, would you have a smidge more upward travel on 31's than 33's?
LOL, I’m reading the HOW TO Adjust Bump Stop thread now! I’d think that without a BL, yes, and with one, about the same travel. But I’m not 100% clear on this yet...
 
The limiter in the rear is the TB relocatioin bracket. It hits the tub at full bump without added bump stops. A body lift will aid in that scenario. Front, no bumps needed for 31's.