3 1/4 lift with 32s and stock rims

Rudy Rudolph

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Saskatchewan
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Would my tires rub with the stock rims(rims are painted) on 32’s if I add a 3 1/4 life (springs and shocks), body lifts are kinda out of the picture it’s got an automatic transmission and is my daily driver with the six cylinder, Dana 44 rear and 3.73 gearing.
 
View attachment 409048Would my tires rub with the stock rims(rims are painted) on 32’s if I add a 3 1/4 life (springs and shocks), body lifts are kinda out of the picture it’s got an automatic transmission and is my daily driver with the six cylinder, Dana 44 rear and 3.73 gearing.

Probably not- but it’s going depend on the tire width some too-

You really need to look at what all you’re going to get into- In my opinion if you’re going to daily drive one of these you need to do a very complete lift.

I’m driving a 2006 this evening and one of the biggest problems I have with it after the lift is that I’m usually going faster than it feels- That tells me I’ve got it dialed in. I could drive this thing cross country or every day. I’m no whiz, I just applied what I learned here.
 
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There is a 3" difference in tread width between the originally issued tires and the 32x11.50s.
I suspect when you flex the suspension while on the trail you will find the increase in width with the factory rim off set will rub in spots inside the fender well even with a 3" lift.
You will need to adjust the steering stops so the tires are less likely to rub inside the wheel wells.
I have a 2" lift with the metric equivalent 32" tires on 17" JK rims and 1.25" wheel adapters; this setup has not rubbed yet when the suspension is flexed.
 
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There is a 3" difference in tread width between the originally issued tires and the 32x11.50s.
I suspect when you flex the suspension while on the trail you will find the increase in width with the factory rim off set will rub in spots inside the fender well even with a 3" lift.
You will need to adjust the steering stops so the tires are less likely to rub inside the wheel wells.
I have a 2" lift with the metric equivalent 32" tires on 17" JK rims and 1.25" wheel adapters; this setup has not rubbed yet when the suspension is flexed.

Not too worried about suspension flex and rubbing I live in the flattest place in the world and bumps aren’t much to hit
 
11.5" wide like is typical for a 32" tire is too wide for the large amount of backspacing (typically 5.25" to 5.5" that the factory wheels come with. Their inside sidewalls will rub unless you either install aftermarket wheels with less backspacing or a 1" spacer for the wheels and I'm no fan of wheel spacers.
 
11.5" wide like is typical for a 32" tire is too wide for the large amount of backspacing (typically 5.25" to 5.5" that the factory wheels come with. Their inside sidewalls will rub unless you either install aftermarket wheels with less backspacing or a 1" spacer for the wheels and I'm no fan of wheel spacers.

That’s the answer I was looking for! Thanks not a fan of spacers either just another failure point looks like I’m investing in negative offset rims.
 
That’s the answer I was looking for! Thanks not a fan of spacers either just another failure point looks like I’m investing in negative offset rims.
Forget you ever heard the term 'offset' which is not the same as backspacing. Offset is a measurement that is more useful for car wheels, backspacing is a different measurement that is more appropriate for Jeep and truck wheels. I'd go for wheels that have anywhere from 4.5" to 3.75" of backspacing.

Backspace is the distance from the wheel's mounting flange to its inner-most edge which gives a direct amount of clearance the tire's inner sidewall has away from the suspension/frame. Offset only describes where the center of the tire is positioned relative to the mounting flange. The 'B' measurement shown below is the only one we care about here.

Backspacing vs. Offset Drawing.jpg