Things to do while axles are out?

The4bangertj

just because you can does not mean you should
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I have the ability to get a Dana 30/44 with arbs front and rear and 4:56 gears (the 44 has disk brakes) for a great price. If I’m lucky enough to get these, should I do anything to them while they’re out? I figured this would be a good time to do Blaine’s reverse parking brake since I’ll have to set up the parking brakes but are there anything else? I was thinking of doing the tierod flip and sway bar brackets but don’t know where to get the knuckles done. Obviously waiting to do any trusses till I’m ready to either buy or make a Savvy mid arm. Am I missing anything anything worth while to do now?
 
You're in the same mindset I'm in. My axles have been sitting beside my Jeep for about 2 years and I'm finally getting back to it. Since I was already having them out and any of these would be a short delay in the re-install, I'm doing:
  • Tie Rod Flip (I'm doing a BBK too so I sent back the original knuckle to Blaine and he sent me back a flip-drill knuckle)
  • Rear parking brake flip
  • Iron Rock Lower Ctrl Arm Mounts (my fronts have the mini-skids so they were ok but I'll move the skids over; rears are bent)
  • Replacing all the brake lines with SS (rear axle SS from the kit were wrong so I have new Crown lines) - My rear line was rusted where the soft line meets the frame & had to be cut
  • Weld on the Currie rear TB mount (while out)
  • Replacing Dana 44 axles seals & bearings while they're out (actually replacing them on spare shafts and keeping the originals as spares - cheaper for now than buying chromoly - I already had spare Dana 44 shafts on-hand)
  • Currie Steering w/ BMB Tie Rod - in for a penny... I've bent my steering too many times already and even if I'm flipping, I'm going all in.
I'm not sleeving anything (recommendations on these axles are against it being useful).
I'm not bracketing the knuckles (Ditto reason)
I'm not trussing anything - I'm not at that point in my Jeep beating yet (My driving style is to grind down the skids vs jump the axle in the air...)
 
You're in the same mindset I'm in. My axles have been sitting beside my Jeep for about 2 years and I'm finally getting back to it. Since I was already having them out and any of these would be a short delay in the re-install, I'm doing:
  • Tie Rod Flip (I'm doing a BBK too so I sent back the original knuckle to Blaine and he sent me back a flip-drill knuckle)
  • Rear parking brake flip
  • Iron Rock Lower Ctrl Arm Mounts (my fronts have the mini-skids so they were ok but I'll move the skids over; rears are bent)
  • Replacing all the brake lines with SS (rear axle SS from the kit were wrong so I have new Crown lines) - My rear line was rusted where the soft line meets the frame & had to be cut
  • Weld on the Currie rear TB mount (while out)
  • Replacing Dana 44 axles seals & bearings while they're out (actually replacing them on spare shafts and keeping the originals as spares - cheaper for now than buying chromoly - I already had spare Dana 44 shafts on-hand)
  • Currie Steering w/ BMB Tie Rod - in for a penny... I've bent my steering too many times already and even if I'm flipping, I'm going all in.
I'm not sleeving anything (recommendations on these axles are against it being useful).
I'm not bracketing the knuckles (Ditto reason)
I'm not trussing anything - I'm not at that point in my Jeep beating yet (My driving style is to grind down the skids vs jump the axle in the air...)

This pretty much everything I plan to do my axles when I pull them for regear, shafts and lockers.
 
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This pretty much everything I plan to do my axles when I pull them for regear, shafts and lockers.

I'd be doing a front e-locker (upgrade from Aussie) and gears if I wasn't at 4.56 and undetermined on 4.88 vs 5.13 with the 33 to 35 upgrade. Still need to drive it first to see how far off the 4.56 are in drivability.
 
I had a Sport Dana 44 transplanted into my Jeep a couple years back. Things that have come up recently I wish I did/had done before the new axle was installed-

1. Relocated my rear upper perches. Easier to cut out inside welds off the frame with axle out.
2. After my SYE and UCF extra clearance skid were installed, my pinion is rotated so far that my lower spring perch is rotated back and my lower shock mounts are too far rotated under the axle to NOT use shock mount extenders, even if I trimmed the perches to accommodate the shocks. I think the person who I bought the axle from modded the axle some. I would have moved both while the axle was out.
 
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I'd be doing a front e-locker (upgrade from Aussie) and gears if I wasn't at 4.56 and undetermined on 4.88 vs 5.13 with the 33 to 35 upgrade. Still need to drive it first to see how far off the 4.56 are in drivability.

I found a killer deal on arb lockers 30 spline front and 35 spline rear with matching chromo axles all nib. So it pushed me to get this done.

I was back and forth on the 4.88 and 5.13 with my 6 speed too. I landed on 5.13 based in feedback here, builds I follow and trust here and running numbers. It's about a 200 rpm difference I don't think will be a big deal at highway speeds.
 
I had a Sport Dana 44 transplanted into my Jeep a couple years back. Things that have come up recently I wish I did/had done before the new axle was installed-

1. Relocated my rear upper perches. Easier to cut out inside welds off the frame with axle out.
2. After my SYE and UCF extra clearance skid were installed, my pinion is rotated so far that my lower spring perch is rotated back and my lower shock mounts are too far rotated under the axle to NOT use shock mount extenders, even if I trimmed the perches to accommodate the shocks. I think the person who I bought the axle from modded the axle some. I would have moved both while the axle was out.

All right! Enough! :mad:

I'm getting tired of this entire thread being in my mind! 😄

I've been planning to do an upper perch move after I get my Jeep drivable again after a 2 year wait. Now you have me questioning if I just pull the trigger now.

I'm planning to use Skyjacker Black Max which should be able to be flipped to help with lower perch clearance but I have a concern I'll be adding extensions and then planning for an outboard. You aren't helping with my concern...
 
You're in the same mindset I'm in. My axles have been sitting beside my Jeep for about 2 years and I'm finally getting back to it. Since I was already having them out and any of these would be a short delay in the re-install, I'm doing:
  • Tie Rod Flip (I'm doing a BBK too so I sent back the original knuckle to Blaine and he sent me back a flip-drill knuckle)
  • Rear parking brake flip
  • Iron Rock Lower Ctrl Arm Mounts (my fronts have the mini-skids so they were ok but I'll move the skids over; rears are bent)
  • Replacing all the brake lines with SS (rear axle SS from the kit were wrong so I have new Crown lines) - My rear line was rusted where the soft line meets the frame & had to be cut
  • Weld on the Currie rear TB mount (while out)
  • Replacing Dana 44 axles seals & bearings while they're out (actually replacing them on spare shafts and keeping the originals as spares - cheaper for now than buying chromoly - I already had spare Dana 44 shafts on-hand)
  • Currie Steering w/ BMB Tie Rod - in for a penny... I've bent my steering too many times already and even if I'm flipping, I'm going all in.
I'm not sleeving anything (recommendations on these axles are against it being useful).
I'm not bracketing the knuckles (Ditto reason)
I'm not trussing anything - I'm not at that point in my Jeep beating yet (My driving style is to grind down the skids vs jump the axle in the air...)

Perfect reply and things I forgot about doing. Thank you.
 
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I found a killer deal on arb lockers 30 spline front and 35 spline rear with matching chromo axles all nib. So it pushed me to get this done.

I was back and forth on the 4.88 and 5.13 with my 6 speed too. I landed on 5.13 based in feedback here, builds I follow and trust here and running numbers. It's about a 200 rpm difference I don't think will be a big deal at highway speeds.

I'm at 4.56. Forum guidance is it isn't worth going to 4.88 for the single step. Feedback seems preference on if 5.13 w/ 6spd is right. I'm going wait and see.

I like the idea of getting into try a regear. But I'm also 2 years into a 'lift' project (Plus a general overhaul) so I'm likely holding off on picking a gear for a bit. Appreciate the feedback related to the 6spd as we're a small slice of the TJ world these days.
 
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Thoughts on repainting the axles? Thinking of maybe painting them with grey steel it for the look of grey and then adding trusses for the mid arm later.
 
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Thoughts on repainting the axles? Thinking of maybe painting them with grey steel it for the look of grey and then adding trusses for the mid arm later.

Definitely paint them with a rust-stopping paint.. Rust-oleum flat black is my go-to -> POR15 is great but very expensive. I have wire wheeled a HP30 to bare metal and repainted. My recent axle (including that HP30 and original Dana 44) removal I just hit the obvious rust spots with a wire wheel, wipes the full axle/brackets with mineral spirits and then hit the axles with spray.
 
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Will prob just do black rustoleum for easy of touch up but would it be smart to put skids on the rear lowers too?
 
Will prob just do black rustoleum for easy of touch up but would it be smart to put skids on the rear lowers too?

You're asking investment advice...<shrug>

I'm planning to put mini skids on my rears even with the Iron Rock brackets for peace of mind. Others may give you different investment advice

Again, as a piece of input on your decision, I'm replacing my rear brackets because I've bent them.
 
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You're asking investment advice...<shrug>

I'm planning to put mini skids on my rears even with the Iron Rock brackets for peace of mind. Others may give you different investment advice

Again, as a piece of input on your decision, I'm replacing my rear brackets because I've bent them.

Introductions of a rear mini skid should take into account cutting them such that they don't introduce a hang point.
 
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I would completely disassemble new used axles and check all the diff bearings for pitting or other wear. And check pinion preload. Good insurance at the cost of seals and some time.spicer Balljoints and spicer rear axleshaft bearings and seals too. The bracket relo mentioned is a great idea.

Paint your axles satin black like a grownup 😜
 
Sounds like a solid plan. Ya satin black in the plan now lol. I’ll look more into putting better lower brackets on rather than just skids.
 
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I have the ability to get a Dana 30/44 with arbs front and rear and 4:56 gears (the 44 has disk brakes) for a great price. If I’m lucky enough to get these, should I do anything to them while they’re out? I figured this would be a good time to do Blaine’s reverse parking brake since I’ll have to set up the parking brakes but are there anything else? I was thinking of doing the tierod flip and sway bar brackets but don’t know where to get the knuckles done. Obviously waiting to do any trusses till I’m ready to either buy or make a Savvy mid arm. Am I missing anything anything worth while to do now?

  1. Move the rear upper spring perch
  2. Rear axle shock mounts so the shock body clears the axle and perch
  3. Remove small bits of hangy downy things. You’ll see them.
  4. Trim the front lower shock mount so the lower control arm has plenty of space at full droop
  5. Tie rod flip
  6. Reverse parking brake
 
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Beef up that 2.5L. 🥳

427_5_7hemi_wrangler_01-57-hemi.jpg
 
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