Why you want a body lift

PNW_LJ said:
04-body-mount-locations-jpg-jpg.126005

Does a rear frame tuck eliminate body mount locations #5 and #6?
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Rear frame lift eliminates both body lift pucks at #6.

The side frame mount lift eliminates the six body lift pucks at #s 2,3,4.

None of these can happen without a body lift. The only remaining body lift pucks on mine are #1, the grill snubbers and both at #5.
 
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jjvw said:
Rear frame lift eliminates both body lift pucks at #6.

The side frame mount lift eliminates the body lift pucks at #s 2,3,4.

None of these can happen without a body lift. The only remaining body lift pucks on mine are #1, the grill snubbers and both at #5.
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Ah, my understanding was that the only remaining pucks were at #1 and grill snubbers. I stand corrected.
 
PNW_LJ said:
Ah, my understanding was that the only remaining pucks were at #1 and grill snubbers. I stand corrected.
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There is the opportunity to eliminate the pair at #5. But that would be part of a frame stretch. It isn't done to increase ground clearance.
 
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jjvw said:
There is the opportunity to eliminate the pair at #5. But that would be part of a frame stretch. It isn't done to increase ground clearance.
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I think you could eliminate the #1 puck with a stretch as well.

That is, if you are a masochist.
 
PNW_LJ said:
I think you could eliminate the #1 puck with a stretch as well.

That is, if you are a masochist.
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No reason to do that when pushing the axle forward already buries the bumper into the tires. I need to take a closer look, but getting the hydro assist steering plumbed and routed would be much more difficult without a body lift.
 
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PNW_LJ said:
Many often repeat that a body lift is the best bang for your buck mod you can do to your TJ/LJ. It's also one of the few mods that once installed, can stay with the rig throughout it's lifetime without change.

I wholeheartedly agree with these statements, and I wanted to round up a list of all the pros/cons of installing a ~1" body lift on your TJ/LJ:

What is a body lift?
A body lift is nothing simply a spacer that goes on top of your existing body mounts, and raises your tub. Your frame, engine, trans, axles will all remain as they were. Pictured below is a stock body mount bushing (Photo 1), as compared to one with a body lift spacer on top (Photo 2).


View attachment 427580

What type of body lift do I want?
The primary thing to look for is that the body lift pucks be made out of a solid material. Body lifts made of polyurethane (*cough* JKS *cough*), will not hold their height. They WILL squish, not a matter of if, but when. This is bad because: you lose the main purpose of a body lift, it can damage your tub, and it makes it impossible to properly torque down the body mount bolts.

The best options out there for a body lift right now are Savvy (1.25" aluminum) and Black Magic brakes (1.25" acetal). These kits will come with everything you need and will last you for the lifetime of your rig. Currie is also a solid option, but at a significant price premium and being only 1", I'm not sure why one would go this route.


What are the pros/cons of a body lift?

Pros:
  • Room for larger tires with less COG and driveline changes than the equivalent size suspension lift
  • Proper tummy tuck
  • Gas tank skid tuck
  • Room for certain suspension mods (such as Savvy midarm which requires a body lift to get proper link separation)
  • Easier to install a MML to alleviate driveline angles
  • Tucks up fenders and body mounted sliders
  • Inexpensive and easy install

Cons:
  • Many dislike the aesthetics of a body lift, mainly the gap it creates between the tub and frame mounted bumpers/steps. I think this is vastly overblown, and can be fixed.
  • May require an upgraded transfer case shifter.
  • May lead to you purchasing more performance-enhancing mods down the road, so install one at your own risk.

I think that about covers it. Let me know if I missed or misstated anything.
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A 1.25” body lift allows you to carry a 1.25” larger spare because it moves it up away from the bumper.
 
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JMT said:
A body lift allows you to carry a 1.25” larger spare because it moves it up away from the bumper.
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A big enough spacer will clear the tire from the bumper. Then all you need to worry about is clearance to the ground.

Or..... for unlimited spare size you can go with....

71Zh8bC1WtL.jpg
 
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PNW_LJ said:
What math?
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2x hub height from the ground is the effective rolling diameter to be used for things like speedometer corrections.

This can be verified by recording the Jeep's GPS speed at a specific engine RPM, going to a gear calculator like GrimmJeeper, and adjusting the tire diameter until the GPS speed and engine rpm you recorded earlier match.

The two tire diameters will match.

Prior to that, I was making fun of those who search for a true XX" tire.
 
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