Jeep Wrangler TJ U-Joint Replacement

Chris

Chris

Administrator
Staff Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Sep 28, 2015
Messages
71,047
Location
Gillette, WY
For those of you curious how to replace the u-joints on your Jeep Wrangler TJ, here is a video tutorial on the process. Note that this is a pretty easy task to do, and by no means complicated.

It's highly suggested that if replacing the stock u-joints, you upgrade them to the Spicer 5-760x u-joints, which are a sealed u-joint, and much better than the stock u-joints.

Disclaimer: @thomat65 wants me to warn everyone there is swearing in this video.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Winks42, Dan T., chad and 3 others
Chris said:
For those of you curious how to replace the u-joints on your Jeep Wrangler TJ, here is a video tutorial on the process. Note that this is a pretty easy task to do, and by no means complicated.

It's highly suggested that if replacing the stock u-joints, you upgrade them to the Spicer 5-760x u-joints, which are a sealed u-joint, and much better than the stock u-joints.

Click to expand...
the guy in the video is a foul month fool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob
I purposefully avoid any of his videos. I don't know what his background or area of expertise actually is, but he comes across as making it up as he goes, and doesn't really have a solid grasp on the subject matter. He actually might, but it just doesn't come across that way.
 
@Chris,

I did some research, and came up with this information directly from Dana's website. Perhaps it would be a good addition to your original post.

1996-2006 Jeep TJ Universal Joints.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Rut Row, mikespine, Dan T. and 5 others
Is it possible that my front & rear propeller shafts are switched? My rear u-joint has started chirping and has a vibration and I crawled under to take inventory. I noticed that the double cardian joint is attached to the rear prop shaft at the t case. The two joint prop shaft goes to the front. All of the diagrams show this opposite. Is this correct?
 
Impossible for them to be switched. They are vastly different dimensions. That diagram is generic, a TJ’s front axle is a driver’s side drop.
 
I did see a few varying diagrams from a web search. Some with cv joint on back shaft, some on front, and some on both. Found an old Haynes YJ manual and it had the setup like I have currently. I really didn’t expect them to be accidentally switched but maybe some strange mod from the PO. Thanks for the reply.
 
Chris said:
here is a video tutorial on the process
Click to expand...
Sorry to be a stickler, but I have family around and the guy in this video dropped the f bomb within the first 30 seconds. Would you mind adding a disclaimer to your post in case others might be concerned about sensitive ears in proximity?
 
thomat65 said:
Sorry to be a stickler, but I have family around and the guy in this video dropped the f bomb within the first 30 seconds. Would you mind adding a disclaimer to your post in case others might be concerned about sensitive ears in proximity?
Click to expand...

Sure thing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thomat65
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: thomat65
Spicer part# 404-0a is a rebuild kit for 1310-1350 double cardan driveshaft self centering balls.
 
This is a better video. Clearer images, cleaner language:

That said, it also makes the process seem a lot easier than the one linked up top.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikespine
Amateur question here on an old post, but I’m thinking of changing my front Ujoints myself.... Do I have to bleed me brakes when I put them back on the rotors? Or do you just slide them back over top of the rotors and they’re good to go?
 
Bleeding brakes isn't a requirement when replacing the u-joints. You're not opening up the braking system, you'll just hang the caliper out of the way of your work.

It's true there may/will be a small amount of brake fluid pushed back into the reservoir when you remove the caliper, depending on how much lip there is on the rotor. That shouldn't pose any issue, the amount should be small and the reservoir should have space for the excess.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Breto31
kalmairn said:
Bleeding brakes isn't a requirement when replacing the u-joints. You're not opening up the braking system, you'll just hang the caliper out of the way of your work.

It's true there may/will be a small amount of brake fluid pushed back into the reservoir when you remove the caliper, depending on how much lip there is on the rotor. That shouldn't pose any issue, the amount should be small and the reservoir should have space for the excess.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I’ve watched multiple videos and nobody mentioned it, but I just wanted to be certain before I started in on it.
 
Top Bottom
Back