Do I need a SYE for a 03 Rubicon?

Steve3740

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I purchased a 2003 Rubicon with about 4.5" of lift installed. From what I can tell it looks like a stock rear driveshaft. The driveshaft looks like it is at a very steep angle. So in general I know that once you hit 4" of lift it is usually best to install a slip yoke eliminator. Of course the Rubicon has the np241 transfer case. I have not been able to locate a sye for this transfer case. Do I need one? / do they make one? Or do I just need a CV drive shaft like this?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...AOlevQ60dqbsJ2r9bOe_CnTL65bavnvhoC2-QQAvD_BwE

Also would this one be a good one to purchase? Any other ideas of what I should get?

Thanks for any help
 
Thanks that was kind of the direction was thinking. Would you recommend the CV driveshaft

Yes, you absolutely need a CV driveshaft if it’s lifted at all. In addition, at a minimum, you need adjustable rear upper control arms in order to adjust the pinion angle more upwards.
 
Yes, you absolutely need a CV driveshaft if it’s lifted at all. In addition, at a minimum, you need adjustable rear upper control arms in order to adjust the pinion angle more upwards.

I have the OME on my '03 Rubicon; with such a small lift is it still recommended?


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I have the OME on my '03 Rubicon; with such a small lift is it still recommended?


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You either have two options with that 2.5" OME lift.
  1. Install a transfer case drop and keep everything else the way it is.
  2. Install a CV driveshaft and adjustable upper rear control arms.
Number two is the right way to do things, especially if you plan on off-roading. Number one works fine, but I always look at it as being a band-aid. If you never plan on going off-road though (and don't mind an ugly, low hanging transfer case), then number one is your best option.
 
You either have two options with that 2.5" OME lift.
  1. Install a transfer case drop and keep everything else the way it is.
  2. Install a CV driveshaft and adjustable upper rear control arms.
Number two is the right way to do things, especially if you plan on off-roading. Number one works fine, but I always look at it as being a band-aid. If you never plan on going off-road though (and don't mind an ugly, low hanging transfer case), then number one is your best option.

Just ordered a Tom Woods CV rear driveshaft. Pretty stoked about that. Quick question : should I get new straps while I am at it, or will the stock straps be fine?


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Just ordered a Tom Woods CV rear driveshaft. Pretty stoked about that. Quick question : should I get new straps while I am at it, or will the stock straps be fine?


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I always get new ones just because they are so cheap.
 
Just ordered a Tom Woods CV rear driveshaft. Pretty stoked about that. Quick question : should I get new straps while I am at it, or will the stock straps be fine?
Hopefully you ordered it with sealed u-joints, not greasable which are not as strong or as durable. Spicer's 5-1310x u-joint is an excellent choice.
 
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:thumbsup:
Great thread! I'm on a 3.5" lift so ill be adding a CV Rear driveshaft to my list after I get a few electrical gremlins sorted out. Hopefully I can get rid of this transfer case drop the PO installed. Lets just hope all the skid bolts come out nicely and i don't ruin any nutserts
 
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Hopefully you ordered it with sealed u-joints, not greasable which are not as strong or as durable. Spicer's 5-1310x u-joint is an excellent choice.

Unfortunately that option wasnt available to ship here to Alaska. One of the downfalls of living here is limited options from the lower 48. Worst case scenario, I can just tap in some 1310x's before the install.


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:thumbsup:
Great thread! I'm on a 3.5" lift so ill be adding a CV Rear driveshaft to my list after I get a few electrical gremlins sorted out. Hopefully I can get rid of this transfer case drop the PO installed. Lets just hope all the skid bolts come out nicely and i don't ruin any nutserts
If you do mess any nutserts up, get some new ones amthrough Black Magic Brakes. There’s a little tool that’s easy to make for installing.
 
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Man...@Chris... You need to check yourself a bit. 2" of lift, even on a Rubicon, does not absolutely require a CV driveshaft. I'm running OME springs on my Rubicon with stock shaft... No vibrations. I'm sure others have the same experience.

No two TJ's are the same... But if the poster doesn't have vibs, a double cardon driveshaft isn't necessary.

I hope you don't cost a bunch of people $300 that is unnecessary.
 
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If you do mess any nutserts up, get some new ones amthrough Black Magic Brakes. There’s a little tool that’s easy to make for installing.

I thank you for the second time today good sir!

Man...@Chris... You need to check yourself a bit. 2" of lift, even on a Rubicon, does not absolutely require a CV driveshaft. I'm running OME springs on my Rubicon with stock shaft... No vibrations. I'm sure others have the same experience.

No two TJ's are the same... But if the poster doesn't have vibs, a double cardon driveshaft isn't necessary.

I hope you don't cost a bunch of people $300 that is unnecessary.

With that OME lift do you have a Tcase drop?
 
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With a motor mount lift, my rear shaft was fine up to at least 3". Though I never paid attention to what was going on at droop with my shocks at the time. The tummy tuck is what led to the DC rear drive shaft.
 
With a motor mount lift, my rear shaft was fine up to at least 3". Though I never paid attention to what was going on at droop with my shocks at the time. The tummy tuck is what led to the DC rear drive shaft.
That is a good point...I've not examined mine at full droop either. However, I'm also only running 8.5" travel shocks, so my droop isn't very droopy! :)