It's almost the weekend. Here's a Jeep project to tackle tonight so you can have a better Jeep for a weekend of wheeling or more wrenching!
I recently came across several MMLs with problems so I figured I'd take pictures and show you guys how to find and fix these issues in an evening. If you have any questions post a reply.
Issue #1:
The first issue is with the way 1" MML blocks install. Some of the male/female standoff spacer studs aren't threaded all the way to the bottom of the female portion (some are, so check the ones that came with your kit). If they aren't threaded all the way to the bottom the motor mount won't be bolted down tight and will allow the engine to flop around.
How to find the issue: The nuts on the underside of the engine won't be snug against the motor mount bracket on the frame.
This stud doesn't tighten against the motor mount:
Since it doesn't tighten that leaves a gap for the motor mount to move around in:
The fix is easy: jack up the engine slightly to take stress off the mounts, remove the mount and grind down the fixed stud on the factory motor mount until the spacer stud sits tight against the mount.
Issue #2:
This issue was causing an overall louder Jeep as the lifted engine was resting against the frame causing vibrations.
How to find the issue: Look around the passenger's side engine mount for any contact between the engine side of the mount and the frame side of the mount. There should be a gap between the two so that when the engine vibrates and moves it doesn't touch the frame. You may need to look from several angles and shine a flash light around to see the gap (or lack of).
On this Jeep the engine was starting to wear a notch into the frame:
Here's how to fix the issue: At minimum you're going to need to take the weight of the engine off the mounts to remove the passenger's side motor mount cross bolt. Once that cross bolt is out you may be able to lower the engine slightly to fit a grinding disk in to remove part of the frame side bracket. If you can't get the grinding disc in enough you're going to have to unbolt the engine side of the motor mount to get enough room to work. Shoot your fix with a quick shot of paint to prevent rust.
Here is that same mount clearanced with an angle grinder and the engine moved towards the driver's side:
Putting it all back together:
You want to push the engine as far to the driver's side as you can to get clearance around the passenger side brackets. I do this by first moving the passenger's side brackets as far passenger as possible and tightening them down to the frame. Next I use a pry bar between the motor mount and the engine to push the engine to the driver's side. While using the pry bar tighten down the passenger crossbolt so that the engine is as far driver's as it can be in the slot. Lastly tighten down the driver's side motor mount tightening the crossbolt last.
Torque specs:
• Thru-Bolts = 48 ft. lb.
• Bracket Bolts = 40 ft. lb.
• Bracket Stud Nuts = 30 ft. lb.
Did you have one of these issues and fixed it? Post a before and after picture in a reply!
I recently came across several MMLs with problems so I figured I'd take pictures and show you guys how to find and fix these issues in an evening. If you have any questions post a reply.
Issue #1:
The first issue is with the way 1" MML blocks install. Some of the male/female standoff spacer studs aren't threaded all the way to the bottom of the female portion (some are, so check the ones that came with your kit). If they aren't threaded all the way to the bottom the motor mount won't be bolted down tight and will allow the engine to flop around.
How to find the issue: The nuts on the underside of the engine won't be snug against the motor mount bracket on the frame.
This stud doesn't tighten against the motor mount:
Since it doesn't tighten that leaves a gap for the motor mount to move around in:
The fix is easy: jack up the engine slightly to take stress off the mounts, remove the mount and grind down the fixed stud on the factory motor mount until the spacer stud sits tight against the mount.
Issue #2:
This issue was causing an overall louder Jeep as the lifted engine was resting against the frame causing vibrations.
How to find the issue: Look around the passenger's side engine mount for any contact between the engine side of the mount and the frame side of the mount. There should be a gap between the two so that when the engine vibrates and moves it doesn't touch the frame. You may need to look from several angles and shine a flash light around to see the gap (or lack of).
On this Jeep the engine was starting to wear a notch into the frame:
Here's how to fix the issue: At minimum you're going to need to take the weight of the engine off the mounts to remove the passenger's side motor mount cross bolt. Once that cross bolt is out you may be able to lower the engine slightly to fit a grinding disk in to remove part of the frame side bracket. If you can't get the grinding disc in enough you're going to have to unbolt the engine side of the motor mount to get enough room to work. Shoot your fix with a quick shot of paint to prevent rust.
Here is that same mount clearanced with an angle grinder and the engine moved towards the driver's side:
Putting it all back together:
You want to push the engine as far to the driver's side as you can to get clearance around the passenger side brackets. I do this by first moving the passenger's side brackets as far passenger as possible and tightening them down to the frame. Next I use a pry bar between the motor mount and the engine to push the engine to the driver's side. While using the pry bar tighten down the passenger crossbolt so that the engine is as far driver's as it can be in the slot. Lastly tighten down the driver's side motor mount tightening the crossbolt last.
Torque specs:
• Thru-Bolts = 48 ft. lb.
• Bracket Bolts = 40 ft. lb.
• Bracket Stud Nuts = 30 ft. lb.
Did you have one of these issues and fixed it? Post a before and after picture in a reply!