Jeep Wrangler TJ Cooling System Overhaul FAQ

We are coming across more and more rigs that even after our normally sufficient 3 day drive flush from Prestone, the block still has rust and scale in it. 2 in particular have enough rust that they clogged the new Mopar Radiators. One has been flushed 3 times now and still has the rust and scale.

If anyone is aware of a better flush product that works better than normal, we need to find it. Or, if you are not sure of the condition of the block on the inside, pop the thermostat housing off and take a peek. If you are on the borderline of cooling well and not, do a flush first before you do anything else and keep at it until the block is clean.

I am looking to replace my coolant system parts. Do you recommend that I run a flush product through the current system a few times before installing the new parts?
 
Probably not. At least not until we get a response to the question I posed in the linked currently active thread where the OP is now suffering a heater core leak after flushing his cooling system:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/heat-works-great-but-now-theres-a-small-coolant-leak.19240/

My current thinking is that a caustic chemical cleaner shouldn't be used if one has an older OEM heater core or inexpensive parts store brand Chinese heater core with thinner gauge aluminum than OEM.
 
I am looking to replace my coolant system parts. Do you recommend that I run a flush product through the current system a few times before installing the new parts?
Yes, absolutely. We use two and they are intended and designed to be cooling system flush products and not some internet home brew answer with the potential to screw things up.

Use the Prestone drive and flush product as directed. If you don't see clean iron in the block and it has some rust, then use the Evapo-Rust Thermocure. Follow the directions.
 
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Probably not. At least not until we get a response to the question I posed in the linked currently active thread where the OP is now suffering a heater core leak after flushing his cooling system:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/heat-works-great-but-now-theres-a-small-coolant-leak.19240/

My current thinking is that a caustic chemical cleaner shouldn't be used if one has an older OEM heater core or inexpensive parts store brand Chinese heater core with thinner gauge aluminum than OEM.
It really doesn't matter. If the system needs a flush and an appropriate one is used which causes a leak, the system is fucked anyway and needs repair. Key points being appropriate and not something better suited to cleaning rust and scale out of a toilet.
 
Should I go ahead with a transmission fluid exchange since I will be draining part of my transmission fluid while swapping out my radiator?
If you’re just changing out the radiator I doubt that would be necessary. I lost very very little trans fluid when I updated my whole coolant system which included a radiator swap.
 
If you’re just changing out the radiator I doubt that would be necessary. I lost very very little trans fluid when I updated my whole coolant system which included a radiator swap.

My Jeep is 20 years old with 120k miles and I don't know the history of the vehicle. I don't know if someone had a transmission flush or fluid exchange done in the past.
 
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I have to ask: I was on Quadratech's site & they have upgraded aluminum or brass replacement radiators & high flow water pumps. Any one tried these & are they better/more durable than Mopar OEM?
 
I have to ask: I was on Quadratech's site & they have upgraded aluminum or brass replacement radiators & high flow water pumps. Any one tried these & are they better/more durable than Mopar OEM?

Avoid them at all costs. They are not more durable or better than Mopar OEM. Just like all the other aftermarket garbage radiators out there, they'll probably last you 2-3 years, then fail.

The Mopar one on the other hand will last 10+ years easily, and usually go until 200k miles.

Also, the "high flow" water pumps are a known marketing scam with these things. Avoid those at all cost as well.
 
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Just replaced my radiator in my 1997 TJ this weekend and used a Mopar radiator but was surprised that the top and bottom tanks were plastic. Just want to make sure I received a real Mopar radiator and not a fake. I used the Amazon link provided earlier in this thread so hopefully I got the right one. Everything lined up but I'm a little worried that there is a small leak in the fins. I spilled quite a bit of coolant while filling so I'm hoping this was just spilled coolant versus a leak. I drove it at highway speeds for about 20 minutes and cooling was fine.
 
Just replaced my radiator in my 1997 TJ this weekend and used a Mopar radiator but was surprised that the top and bottom tanks were plastic. Just want to make sure I received a real Mopar radiator and not a fake. I used the Amazon link provided earlier in this thread so hopefully I got the right one. Everything lined up but I'm a little worried that there is a small leak in the fins. I spilled quite a bit of coolant while filling so I'm hoping this was just spilled coolant versus a leak. I drove it at highway speeds for about 20 minutes and cooling was fine.

They are supposed to be plastic, that's what OEM is on almost every vehicle on the market, including brand new Wranglers.

Don't be fooled... just because a radiator has plastic end tanks, doesn't mean it's bad. 99% of times, that plastic outlasts the crap quality welds on the "all aluminum" aftermarket radiators (i.e. Mishimoto). Just because a radiator is all aluminum means nothing.

If your radiator is indeed OE Mopar, it will have Mopar factory part numbers and a Chrysler symbol stamped on it, likely on the plastic end caps.
 
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They are supposed to be plastic, that's what OEM is on almost every vehicle on the market, including brand new Wranglers.

Don't be fooled... just because a radiator has plastic end tanks, doesn't mean it's bad. 99% of times, that plastic outlasts the crap quality welds on the "all aluminum" aftermarket radiators (i.e. Mishimoto). Just because a radiator is all aluminum means nothing.

If your radiator is indeed OE Mopar, it will have Mopar factory part numbers and a Chrysler symbol stamped on it, likely on the plastic end caps.

Thanks for the feedback on this. I can't keep all of the information out there straight and I thought I had read that the plastic was a sign of cheap radiators. I'll check the stamps tonight when I get home.

As a side note, I wanted to protect my new investment somewhat so I ordered some cheap grill inserts on Amazon and should have those installed by the middle of the week. I figured these will at least keep out bigger bugs and miscellaneous rocks.
 
Thanks for the feedback on this. I can't keep all of the information out there straight and I thought I had read that the plastic was a sign of cheap radiators. I'll check the stamps tonight when I get home.

As a side note, I wanted to protect my new investment somewhat so I ordered some cheap grill inserts on Amazon and should have those installed by the middle of the week. I figured these will at least keep out bigger bugs and miscellaneous rocks.

The factory radiator (with plastic end tanks) has been proven to last 15+ years and sometimes 200k plus miles, so you can rest easy that it's the best radiator replacement you can get for your TJ :)

Anyone who says plastic radiators end tanks are a sign of a bad radiator, clearly doesn't take the time to think about how long the OE radiator is designed to last.
 
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Great write up Chris, my 98 sahara radiators been seeping all winter from the plastic and now the water pump is leaking from the hoses. Not sure if its the new england winter expanding and shrinking the 22 yr old hoses. Flushed everything last summer at 61,000 miles knowing this overhaul would be on my list. Ready to tackle this project weekend. Thanks for the info, keeping everything mopar
 
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Great write up Chris, my 98 sahara radiators been seeping all winter from the plastic and now the water pump is leaking from the hoses. Not sure if its the new england winter expanding and shrinking the 22 yr old hoses. Flushed everything last summer at 61,000 miles knowing this overhaul would be on my list. Ready to tackle this project weekend. Thanks for the info, keeping everything mopar

No problem, always happy to help :)
 
About to start the tear down and replace the entire cooling system. I can’t thank you enough Chris for putting the parts and instructions on this thread. Super helpful!
 
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About to start the tear down and replace the entire cooling system. I can’t thank you enough Chris for putting the parts and instructions on this thread. Super helpful!

No problem at all, happy to help :)
 
If anyone finds constant tension clamps in the right size, I too would love to know where to get them and the sizes used!
Chris,
I purchased from Mopar Parts Giant. (3) upper radiator hose both ends and lower radiator hose radiator end 55037990AA, (1) lower hose end @ Water Pump 55037660AA

Rich