My Review of the Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit

[Chris]

I'm not one for physics so I'll take your word for it. What you're saying though does make sense. I am curious to hear Blaine's response though.

At least no one so far has chimed in and told us to run slotted and cross drilled rotors... God... The kids on the Facebook Jeep groups never seem to stop with the slotted and cross drilled rotor thing.

 

[Laggy]

Slotted is the strongest, technically as drilled can crack easier.

Either way, it's a brake fade thing, which is more of a repetitive racing/track issue. Race fluid that can take heat is important. But as your awesome review shows, pads and the calipers pushing them are the most important. Brake lines become important. Drilled and slotted have almost nothing to do with the situations where the calipers and pads of the Vanco kit saved you.

I've tracked everything from an Integra, 350z and 2 supersport bikes. Calipers, i'd say, are the single most important and noticeable upgrade, as every other upgrade incrementally helped stopping power. With bikes, a good Master Cylinder will make even the most value-driven pads stop REALLY quick. Stainless lines are awesome, but new, firm rubber lines are basically as good in all but the most advanced hands. Stainless lines almost always replace old lines that tend to flex and bow out (a little) and the vehicle always gets a flush and bleed. Result is people think those make a bigger difference than they actually do.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[mrblaine]

@mrblaine correct me if I'm wrong, but it wouldn't do much to upgrade the rear pads due to the way the braking power is distributed throughout the system. Under hard braking, the Jeep becomes front heavy and if anymore power was applied to the rear brakes, it would only cause the rear wheels to lock up which would increase braking distances.

And if you've ever had a physics class, you'll know why a rolling wheel provides more stopping power than a stationary one.

Nope, you got it all correct with some minor semantics. It does become front heavy, but more correctly, there is a higher level of weight transfer under braking to the front which tends to require less rear braking to prevent lock-up.

 

[mrblaine]

I'm not one for physics so I'll take your word for it. What you're saying though does make sense. I am curious to hear Blaine's response though.

At least no one so far has chimed in and told us to run slotted and cross drilled rotors... God... The kids on the Facebook Jeep groups never seem to stop with the slotted and cross drilled rotor thing.

We test our kits on a couple of rigs that race the Lemons stuff and KOH. There is huge amounts to be learned doing so. We've tested slotted, slotted cryo, plain face, and plain face cryo. So far, the best bang for the buck has been the standard plain face because the others don't show enough or any improvements to justify the difference in cost. We have our 16" kit as it comes off the shelf on a Cherokee with an LS motor in it and to date, he out brakes every one he races against, the pads last for any where from 2-6 races, and the rotors have lasted a season. In perspective, other racers are going through multiple sets of pads and at least a set of rotors per race.

The pad use increased from several races to right around 2 when the slotted rotors were tested.

 

[mrblaine]

Slotted is the strongest, technically as drilled can crack easier.

Either way, it's a brake fade thing, which is more of a repetitive racing/track issue. Race fluid that can take heat is important. But as your awesome review shows, pads and the calipers pushing them are the most important. Brake lines become important. Drilled and slotted have almost nothing to do with the situations where the calipers and pads of the Vanco kit saved you.

I've tracked everything from an Integra, 350z and 2 supersport bikes. Calipers, i'd say, are the single most important and noticeable upgrade, as every other upgrade incrementally helped stopping power. With bikes, a good Master Cylinder will make even the most value-driven pads stop REALLY quick. Stainless lines are awesome, but new, firm rubber lines are basically as good in all but the most advanced hands. Stainless lines almost always replace old lines that tend to flex and bow out (a little) and the vehicle always gets a flush and bleed. Result is people think those make a bigger difference than they actually do.

Just my 2 cents...

Your 2 cents is spot on. I do see more improvement by keeping the system balanced and all things working together. High friction pad, robust caliper with a stiff bridge and rigid saddle, and a moderately robust rotor with good metallurgy and center split castings machined well.

 

[Laggy]

Your 2 cents is spot on. I do see more improvement by keeping the system balanced and all things working together. High friction pad, robust caliper with a stiff bridge and rigid saddle, and a moderately robust rotor with good metallurgy and center split castings machined well.

Have you ever seen anyone run those power-assist masters?

 

[mrblaine]

Have you ever seen anyone run those power-assist masters?

Which ones are you referring to? I run hydro boost, I'm familiar with some of the other types but have not heard of them referred to as a power assist master.

 

[Laggy]

Hydro Boost is the one. Is it amazing?

 

[mrblaine]

Hydro Boost is the one. Is it amazing?

Certainly not possible but if I had my way, every big brake kit would include a hydro-boost set up. I can put hydro boost on a stock set of TJ brakes and the difference is night and day.

 

[Chris]

Certainly not possible but if I had my way, every big brake kit would include a hydro-boost set up. I can put hydro boost on a stock set of TJ brakes and the difference is night and day.

Why don't they include hydro boost in your big brake kits? I'm curious...

 

[mrblaine]

Why don't they include hydro boost in your big brake kits? I'm curious...

First, it isn't "they", it is me and Kat. We build all the kits, source all the parts, and do all the design work. Every big brake kit sold leaves from here.

Hydro-boost requires replacement of the vacuum booster, new hoses from steering pump to HB to steering gear. Most pumps don't deliver enough volume to run both so an new pump is needed. Pump that size needs a cooler. If you run a cooler and a pump, you should be running a remote reservoir to deliver the fluid more better. Add it all up and a simple brake kit turns into a large job that costs another grand or so.

 

[Chris]

Makes perfect sense. Well, it would be cool to experience the hydro boost first hand. Probably not worth that amount of fuss though.

 

[mrblaine]

Makes perfect sense. Well, it would be cool to experience the hydro boost first hand. Probably not worth that amount of fuss though.

Worth it and then some. Plus, if you get more serious offroading, you have the foundation for assisted steering and a better gear box.

 

[Chris]

Worth it and then some. Plus, if you get more serious offroading, you have the foundation for assisted steering and a better gear box.

Maybe I'll add it to my 'to do' list. One of these days I'll need another project!

 

[John Beard]

As I plan the next phase of my build the Big Brake Kit is the next component to be installed.

 

[Chris]

As I plan the next phase of my build the Big Brake Kit is the next component to be installed.

You'll absolutely love it!

 

[Chris]

Just a small update:

Had to use these breaks extensive in the big ice storm we had last week. Wow... Again, these things never cease to amaze me. Even in the ice they really just hook up and grab. Saved my ass on more than a few occasions. It's very nice and reassuring to know that I have some substantial brake power to stop such a heavy rig when needed.

 

[Powdermonkey]

First, it isn't "they", it is me and Kat. We build all the kits, source all the parts, and do all the design work. Every big brake kit sold leaves from here.

Hydro-boost requires replacement of the vacuum booster, new hoses from steering pump to HB to steering gear. Most pumps don't deliver enough volume to run both so an new pump is needed. Pump that size needs a cooler. If you run a cooler and a pump, you should be running a remote reservoir to deliver the fluid more better. Add it all up and a simple brake kit turns into a large job that costs another grand or so.

I will be having a 15” BBK and hydo boost installed soon. I have high hopes considering the cost of adding on the hydo boost. I almost wish I drove with just the BBK before adding the hydoboost to see the difference. I still have a couple days if anyone wants to talk me out of this.

 

[kanas27]

Believe me when I say that you won't miss the OEM brakes after this upgrade =]

Awesome! I have to get a kit. I just had an accident, where I rear ended a SUV two weeks ago. I was even coming to a stop at a Stop sign. It was raining but it happened in slow motion....totally sucked

 

[Chris]

Awesome! I have to get a kit. I just had an accident, where I rear ended a SUV two weeks ago. I was even coming to a stop at a Stop sign. It was raining but it happened in slow motion....totally sucked

You'll be happy with this kit. I have the 17" kit now, so even a bigger improvement over this one!