What would you do?

I guess I need a Jeep dictionary to find out what this means.

Translation:

I believe what JMT is referring to.... Someone please chime in if I have something incorrect here...

2.5 OME: 2.5ā€ suspension lift. OME is the brand (old man emu)

2ā€ tuck: Is a tummy tuck, where you replace the stock skid plate/cross member with a flatter skid plate. Allowing higher clearance and better break over angle.

SYE/DC: slip yoke eliminator kit. It replaces the speedometer housing part of your transfer case with a shorter version of the housing. Allowing you to fit a longer double cardan (DC) driveshaft. Also referred to as a CV style driveshaft.

Rear CAā€™s: is rear adjustable control arms. This allows you to adjust the rear pinion angle to eliminate driveline vibrations. The SYE/DC kit requires a different pinion angle than the stock driveshaft.

32x11.5: is tire size.

Regear: is the gearing in the front and rear differentials. Iā€™m sure you know, but if you decide to regear, the front and rear MUST be the same gear ratio.

Lock: Iā€™m assuming JMT means to install differential lockers. Depending on the intended use, you have a few different options. Electronic lockers (like the Eaton E-Locker), air actuated lockers (like the ARB Air Locker), or an auto locker that engages automatically (like the Detroit Locker). There are several different brands and styles.

Just all depends on your intended use, as most mods do.

Just take it slow, and do it right the first time. Iā€™d say first thing to consider is, what is your intended use. Then figure out the largest tire you foresee yourself running. That will start you down the right road as far as mods go.
 
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My opinion for what it's worth: Don't even consider any mods yet. Get it running and drive around for a couple of months while you read and learn. Be mindful of what you read on forums. There is a lot of great information on this site that has increased my knowledge base significantly, but also a lot of propagation of unnecessary information. You need to evaluate for yourself how you like the current condition of the vehicle and what you want out of it. Don't let someone talk you into what you need to do. Get a feel for the jeep and start slowly.

I think you've been given what many of us tinkerers would consider a dream situation; have fun. Hopefully the frame and engine are sound.
 
I guess I need a Jeep dictionary to find out what this means.
LOL. We should have an acronym dictionary. @Chris!

2.5" Old Man Emu Lift (Part no.'s 2933 and 2944)
Rancho 5000X Shocks 2-3"
2" Tummy Tuck (Raises the belly of the fat TJ/transfer case skid)
Slip Yoke Eliminator and Double Cardan Driveshaft (to eliminate vibes and work with the Tummy Tuck)
Rear Control Arms to adjust pinion angle for the Tummy Tuck

EDIT: see @TJBob excellent explanation above, which I did not see until after my post.
 
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I say get it running and go from there. Drive it and address any safety or operational issues first. For the kids...after it is running, talk to them on what they think the perfect Jeep looks like and set a plan in place to build it together with them helping with sweat equity for parts and labor. Its what I did with my oldest when we built a ScoutII together. 20 years later and she still has a picture of the truck and shows it off. She sold it 15 years ago.
 
Hello to every Jeep Wrangler tj guru!!
I started checking this site like 2 years ago, on different tips on what to do on a '98 4 cylinder manual transmission ,after a friend of mine, asked me if I can keep his wrangler on my driveway for 2 weeks, while he can clean his garage.At that time ,I had it sitting in my driveway for a year already.My sons were 14 and 12 at the time, and after 3 years with it on my driveway, and seeing it everyday, Is like I want to fix it for my kids.
Now I have the opportunity to buy it for $1200.And I can guess that the main problem was that he installed a lift kit, and 35"s ,and the jeep wasn't performing as expected.It was running when was parked 3 years ago, now I need to invest a little to make it run(battery , fluids, flushing fuel system).
So I'm asking what would you do if I started it and is mechanically sound?I'm a chevy guy, so I don't have all the little mods and tricks planed to do since I was a kid, I'm guessing you were ,give me a direction to go ,please!

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Iā€™d buy it get it running and if itā€™s for your kids donā€™t fix shit. The small motor and big tires mean they canā€™t go to crazy in it.
 
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I would not let any inexperienced driers use it as-is. With stock brakes and 35" tires, it is not going to stop worth a shit. Dangerous at best in the hands of experienced drivers.

And, personally, I would not put any inexperienced drivers in a vehicle without at least ABS which this jeep probably does not have.

Not to mention the increased chance of a rollover compared to most vehicles when trying to execute emergency maneuvers.

IMHO, TJs and kids are not a good mix if you care about the safety of your kids. I know a lot of people have fantasies about their kids reliving the thrills they got as a kid 30 or 40 years ago when they got their hands on their first truck/Jeep/muscle car. I personally think about how lucky I was to survive the stupid shit I did at that age. Put them in something cheap and safe. Chances are high they will be involved in some sort of accident within the 1st couple years of driving. My 3 kids have totaled 2 vehicles and wrecked a couple others. All within the 1st 2 years of having their license. YMMV.
 
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Well, being a Chevy guy you should be used to fixing broken down vehicles by now! lol, couldn't resist. Tell him the Jeep is in leau of leaving the thing parked in your driveway for this long and consider it payment for the Jeep! jeesh, some friend?
 
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I would not let any inexperienced driers use it as-is. With stock brakes and 35" tires, it is not going to stop worth a shit. Dangerous at best in the hands of experienced drivers.

And, personally, I would not put any inexperienced drivers in a vehicle without at least ABS which this jeep probably does not have.

Not to mention the increased chance of a rollover compared to most vehicles when trying to execute emergency maneuvers.

IMHO, TJs and kids are not a good mix if you care about the safety of your kids. I know a lot of people have fantasies about their kids reliving the thrills they got as a kid 30 or 40 years ago when they got their hands on their first truck/Jeep/muscle car. I personally think about how lucky I was to survive the stupid shit I did at that age. Put them in something cheap and safe. Chances are high they will be involved in some sort of accident within the 1st couple years of driving. My 3 kids have totaled 2 vehicles and wrecked a couple others. All within the 1st 2 years of having their license. YMMV.
Is drivers education required in your state? My16 yr old and 18 yr old are excellent drivers. No drivers ed beyond online courses required in FL. My kids did not necessarily enjoy it but they got some really direct guidance on driving when they had their permit. Think ahead, know your surroundings, dont speed (too much). No phone at all. Ever.
 
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Translation:

I believe what JMT is referring to.... Someone please chime in if I have something incorrect here...

2.5 OME: 2.5ā€ suspension lift. OME is the brand (old man emu)

2ā€ tuck: Is a tummy tuck, where you replace the stock skid plate/cross member with a flatter skid plate. Allowing higher clearance and better break over angle.

SYE/DC: slip yoke eliminator kit. It replaces the speedometer housing part of your transfer case with a shorter version of the housing. Allowing you to fit a longer double cardan (DC) driveshaft. Also referred to as a CV style driveshaft.

Rear CAā€™s: is rear adjustable control arms. This allows you to adjust the rear pinion angle to eliminate driveline vibrations. The SYE/DC kit requires a different pinion angle than the stock driveshaft.

32x11.5: is tire size.

Regear: is the gearing in the front and rear differentials. Iā€™m sure you know, but if you decide to regear, the front and rear MUST be the same gear ratio.

Lock: Iā€™m assuming JMT means to install differential lockers. Depending on the intended use, you have a few different options. Electronic lockers (like the Eaton E-Locker), air actuated lockers (like the ARB Air Locker), or an auto locker that engages automatically (like the Detroit Locker). There are several different brands and styles.

Just all depends on your intended use, as most mods do.

Just take it slow, and do it right the first time. Iā€™d say first thing to consider is, what is your intended use. Then figure out the largest tire you foresee yourself running. That will start you down the right road as far as mods go.
 
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Get it running first. If it were me I would pump all of the old fuel out and put several gallons of fresh fuel along with an additive that would handle any moisture from condensation. Once you have it running I would not do a thing except change all of your fluids and drive it. Educate yourself by asking all the questions on this site. If it were mine I would go back to the original tire size and just have fun with it. Resist the temptation to do anything to it until you have more knowledge.
 
thatā€™s one of those ā€œis the juice worth the squeezeā€ deals.
can You post more pictures of:
Rear drive line
Rear yoke of transfer case
Trans skid from side view
Driveline at rear diff from side
Suspension components
 
Here I got the pics, let me know if you need more.

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Frame is a disaster, but for a first car this could be a pretty good learning experience. I might yank the tub off, fix the frame, grind and rattle can as much rust as you can on the tub, and send it down the road. For $1500, not much to lose and it'll be a good project. 100% don't drive it around until you get the frame patched up though.
 
5.13 gearing in the axles with an AX-5 & 2.5L 4-cylinder for driveability. 4.56 & 4.88's are not enough with 35's.

Limiting factor is the pinion size on the front Dana 30 axle so you can't do 5.39's or that would be even better.

Going to smaller 31's or 32's will look real funny if it has 4" of lift or more. Stick with the 35's it has now IMHO, it's a cheap Jeep, doesn't have a high end lift so keep it basic or you'll be in it some serious $.

Real lockers will make it a fun trail toy but don't expect performance in the gooey mud or sand. Not enough wheelspeed or torque for bogging or sand dunes with the 4 & big tires.

Keep the weight down on all armor and accessories because the low torque of the 4-cylinder engine will not work out well with heavy armor.

To that end, consider summer rides with a soft top or bikini sun shade and no or half doors to cut pounds from a hard top. Use the hard top and doors in winter only for performance reasons. I've owned several 4-cylinder Wranglers and they are still fun to drive around despite being woefully under powered.

The Jeep will do remarkably well if you keep the pounds off on the trail and street drives will be ok but freeway interstate drives will be tough regardless.

That much rust needs to be addressed soon but if it's a trail toy, drive it and have fun is what I say!