Anyone know how to treat the insides of the frame rail from rust?

I plugged the bottom holes and then poured BLO inside the frames filled (full to the side holes) drove it regular for a week, then drained the BLO through the bottom holes.
 
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Fluid film. But the extension wand and tape it to a metal clothes hanger to get good coverage the full length of the frame.
 
Several brands of cosmoline in a spray can on the market now. Clean it well and use instead of the F.F. and it should stay put for several years at least. Apply same as F.F.
 
Eastwood internal frame coating is a more permanent solution than FF or BLO. Unclear if it is more effective, but I've heard good things.
 
Problem (in my opinion) with Eastwood coating or similar is if any rust was under the coating it would be able to continue while the coating prevented any way to stop it. Until a big hole opens up in the frame. With the FF or cosmoline used you could still inspect for new rust and treat it. So having to re-coat inside the frame every few years is almost a good thing to me. 1 small crack or missed spot with the Eastwood and rust grows hidden from view.
 
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Problem (in my opinion) with Eastwood coating or similar is if any rust was under the coating it would be able to continue while the coating prevented any way to stop it. Until a big hole opens up in the frame. With the FF or cosmoline used you could still inspect for new rust and treat it. So having to re-coat inside the frame every few years is almost a good thing to me. 1 small crack or missed spot with the Eastwood and rust grows hidden from view.

The Eastwood coating is designed to inhibit existing rust, so what you described should not be the case. That said, I'm only going by their marketing claims, so who knows. The long-term reviews I've read have been positive, as far as I can tell.
 
What's everyone's opinion on applying BLO or FF over existing rust inside the frame? My only problem area is the passenger side and while the frame is solid with no holes/weak spots that I've found...I definitely have rust in there that I've so far treated by regularly flushing + drain holes I drilled already. Want to stuff it with one of those two for the winter in addition to coating the outside of the frame since I DD mine.
 
I'm skeptical about painting the inside of mine, painting over rust is bad. I personally would be scared to use the Eastwoods in fear of trapping moisture. Prepping and painting something I can see is hard enough, the inside of the frame I just don't see how.

So I cleaned and flushed all the loose dirt and rust flakes out of mine and drilled drain holes. I use the cheaper alternative to fluid film aka used motor oil. Haven't been able to find a single rust flake since I started treating it with the oil.
 
So I cleaned and flushed all the loose dirt and rust flakes out of mine and drilled drain holes. I use the cheaper alternative to fluid film aka used motor oil. Haven't been able to find a single rust flake since I started treating it with the oil.

This is a proven method for sure. Know first hand and know people that do this and are rust free. It can be very messy and it will drip for a week or so even if you drive on a dusty road.
 
I sprayed most of my TJ with Fluid Film after rinsing the frame out and letting it dry last October then drove pretty much all winter. I did rinse it out again this spring but didn't check inside the frame before filling it up with mud. I will rinse it out again and check it out eventually but FWIW, anywhere I saw little random surface rust on the Jeep they still look the same today as when I sprayed it.
 
I'm skeptical about painting the inside of mine, painting over rust is bad. I personally would be scared to use the Eastwoods in fear of trapping moisture. Prepping and painting something I can see is hard enough, the inside of the frame I just don't see how.

So I cleaned and flushed all the loose dirt and rust flakes out of mine and drilled drain holes. I use the cheaper alternative to fluid film aka used motor oil. Haven't been able to find a single rust flake since I started treating it with the oil.

It's not really a paint as it is a chemical that changes the molecular compound of the rust so it doesn't spread like cancer. I've used it before and it does work. After it dries I will normally use undercoating on the rusted treated metal as another step in the protection process. Normally I get me vehicles undercoated and then get under them and go over what the dealer didn't undercoat. I live in the upper Ohio valley where if you don't get you vehicles undercoated all you are doing is decreasing the life span of the frame/body/fuel lines/brake lines.
 
While I appreciate the fact that people see no new rust with the Eastwood product, my thought is how would you know? There is a coating covering (hopefully) everything. It could be rusting underneath the coating and you wouldn't know until it came through the frame. I've used several "rust reformer" brands including Eastwood's and every single one had rust come back thru. Using each one's directions. With FF or even motor oil you are able to see if rust is under control or not. So you can continue to keep the frame treated. On the OUTSIDE of the frame is different. You can easily see if rust is still active under paint or any coating. I was 100% going to use the Eastwood in my frame until I was reading others opinions about it. Changed my mind completely. And if you are unhappy with the performance of the FF you can just pressure wash it out and try the Eastwood later if you feel the need.
 
While I appreciate the fact that people see no new rust with the Eastwood product, my thought is how would you know? There is a coating covering (hopefully) everything. It could be rusting underneath the coating and you wouldn't know until it came through the frame. I've used several "rust reformer" brands including Eastwood's and every single one had rust come back thru. Using each one's directions. With FF or even motor oil you are able to see if rust is under control or not. So you can continue to keep the frame treated. On the OUTSIDE of the frame is different. You can easily see if rust is still active under paint or any coating. I was 100% going to use the Eastwood in my frame until I was reading others opinions about it. Changed my mind completely. And if you are unhappy with the performance of the FF you can just pressure wash it out and try the Eastwood later if you feel the need.

This is kinda where I'm at too now even though I'm not sure logic the follows entirely ha. I like the FF/oil options better now than the Eastwood option but I say that not having actually used it. I'm unclear though about what those options do or don't do to areas already experiencing rust vs. the Eastwood option.
 
If you clean out the frame and let it, dry oiling works well. It is somewhat messy and may not be for everyone but I can promise you it'll keep the rust from getting worse. If treated at proper time intervals it would last forever.