OP
Still undecided. I think I want 0.5" and I would like aluminum like what is there now.
Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
Still undecided. I think I want 0.5" and I would like aluminum like what is there now.
When I was at Rokmen I tried to buy aluminum - they decided to stop selling those since they weren't moving :/
OP
I cut up and reassembled my license plate and a new frame. It's smaller with less white acreage.
Before
No more license plate stuff, I promise.
Before
No more license plate stuff, I promise.
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OP
Digging through stuff and found the rear factory isolaters and my old OME 10mm spacers. I can replace the rear 1" aluminum spacers with these and drop the rear a bit.
You got new license plates !?
The winch is pretty well hidden with your new setup. I like that.
OP
The old front was unusable, so I got an all new number. Then I cut off the top and bottom as much as I could while still looking normal.
OP
Today I cut apart and reassembled the front bumper. Again and hopefully for the last time!
I cut out the three little crossmember braces from last time and replaced them with a full width piece of angle. The nuts for the skid and also welded inside the bumper since they are now inaccessible.
Now the underside of the bumper is fully supported, as is the steering box skid.
Then I improved the thimble keeper and added another small gusset to the extended frame mount.
And I cut out the Motobilt M and filled it in with a flat piece of steel, but I forgot to take a pic. The M felt like a weak point, and I don't care for big logos. I don't think this is much of a Motobilt bumper anymore, either.
Then I finally got to straighten out the bent Currie tie rod and fix the alignment.
I was surprised by how easy it was to fix with a press. And now the tires don't squeal when I make a slow turn through a gas station.
I cut out the three little crossmember braces from last time and replaced them with a full width piece of angle. The nuts for the skid and also welded inside the bumper since they are now inaccessible.
Now the underside of the bumper is fully supported, as is the steering box skid.
Then I improved the thimble keeper and added another small gusset to the extended frame mount.
And I cut out the Motobilt M and filled it in with a flat piece of steel, but I forgot to take a pic. The M felt like a weak point, and I don't care for big logos. I don't think this is much of a Motobilt bumper anymore, either.
Then I finally got to straighten out the bent Currie tie rod and fix the alignment.
I was surprised by how easy it was to fix with a press. And now the tires don't squeal when I make a slow turn through a gas station.
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A friend of mine bent the fuck out of his drag link a few weeks back; we weren't anywhere near a press, so we used the winch on a rollback and some poor risk-assessment skills to straighten it. As you said; it bent right back into place...after suitable force was applied, of course.
thimble keeper hahaha that's awesome, maybe patent that thing. I'm not too concerned about mine sticking straight out, not doing the kind of rocks you are, but for some reason it seems to keep sliding so that it's edge ends up on an angle cutting into the fairlead even after I pull it tight flush. I remember reading a long thread about this not being an issue because it's all aluminum and won't scratch or groove the fairlead but I can't find the thread. Did I read that right or am imagining it? If it is an issue I'm going to have to steal the keeper.
I'd like to see some pictures of what you did further back, it's hard to see what's going on close up.
OP
I'll take better pics today.
An easier keeper is a long bolt sticking out of the sway bar bolt hole. I posted a picture in the stubby bumper thread and further back in this one.
An easier keeper is a long bolt sticking out of the sway bar bolt hole. I posted a picture in the stubby bumper thread and further back in this one.
OP
OP
That looks really well done. I'm not fond of the cut out logo (it just seems excessive).
I've not wrecked my license plate as bad as you have, so I'm going to mount mine there with 3 screws along the bottom to see how it survives. edit: there's just not enough real estate up top with the massive warn 9.5ti.
OP
A big weekend is over. A lot got done and tworley got some outboarded shocks along the way.
The rear locker is finally fixed. Several months ago, I bought a factory Rubicon to replace the one I broke far too long ago. We reused the R&P. The pattern and backlash was identical on the first try. The drive home was no different than any other drive.
The lock on this replacement is far more immediate and crisp than I recall the old one ever being. I really think the rear was damaged from day one when I bought the Jeep.
The rear locker is finally fixed. Several months ago, I bought a factory Rubicon to replace the one I broke far too long ago. We reused the R&P. The pattern and backlash was identical on the first try. The drive home was no different than any other drive.
The lock on this replacement is far more immediate and crisp than I recall the old one ever being. I really think the rear was damaged from day one when I bought the Jeep.
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OP
The rear bumper got a recessed hitch receiver.
A surface mount sticks out this far.
Mine goes back to the back lip of the frame crossmember. The receiver protrudes 2.25". I could have gone another quarter inch, but I didn't have it in me too drop the gas tank for that last little bit.
Two pairs of bolts surround the receiver to attach the bumper to the crossmember. I needed a pair I flag nuts because there is no room to reach in behind. All I had on hand were nylock nuts that no longer lock.
The safety chain tabs sit on top and act as a gusset. There is a smaller gusset on the bottom that is also a ramp
A surface mount sticks out this far.
Mine goes back to the back lip of the frame crossmember. The receiver protrudes 2.25". I could have gone another quarter inch, but I didn't have it in me too drop the gas tank for that last little bit.
Two pairs of bolts surround the receiver to attach the bumper to the crossmember. I needed a pair I flag nuts because there is no room to reach in behind. All I had on hand were nylock nuts that no longer lock.
The safety chain tabs sit on top and act as a gusset. There is a smaller gusset on the bottom that is also a ramp
OP
This is interesting. This is a broken body mount bolt from the JKS body lift. Because of the squish, the bolt punched through the tub, making it easy to find. I welded on a nut and removed it from above.
After installing the new bolt and lower isolater, I noticed that the hole over the bolt had shifted. Does this mean that the JKS body lift had let the body move to one side? I assume the Savvy puts the body closer to where it should be relative to the frame.
After installing the new bolt and lower isolater, I noticed that the hole over the bolt had shifted. Does this mean that the JKS body lift had let the body move to one side? I assume the Savvy puts the body closer to where it should be relative to the frame.
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I bent my stock tie rod into a banana a few years ago. Took it off the Jeep and put it behind the driver rear tire. Backed over it to straighten it out and then reinstalled. Alignment was surprisingly good.
I wonder if that could have been due to install order. Perhaps that side was up high during the introductory tightening causing the misalignment.
OP
Knowing me, I likely started in the driver's side. That was the side with the broken bolt. I don't really know what to make of it.