NV3550 Fluid Change

MrBClark

TJ Enthusiast
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Joined
Mar 30, 2019
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Montoursville Pennsylvania
Which Redline MTL fluid is best for my NV3550? I am not having issues shifting just slight sounds and clunky feel. Which type of MTL and how much? Sorry, I feel I am asking a ton of questions on this forum but I dont want to mess this Jeep up more then it already is.
 
MTL isn't going to make your transmission less clunky. The NV3550 is neither smooth nor quiet. Compared to mopar fluid it might be slightly quieter when idling in neutral, and for me it improved the 1–2 shift.

There is only one Redline MTL; the other common fluid they make is MT-90, which is slightly higher viscosity and is used for the AX-15. Both work in the NV3550, but the MTL will give you slightly better results.
 
MTL isn't going to make your transmission less clunky. The NV3550 is neither smooth nor quiet. Compared to mopar fluid it might be slightly quieter when idling in neutral, and for me it improved the 1–2 shift.

There is only one Redline MTL; the other common fluid they make is MT-90, which is slightly higher viscosity and is used for the AX-15. Both work in the NV3550, but the MTL will give you slightly better results.
Thanks for the help. I am looking for a smoother 1-2 and 2-3 shift. The tranny works fine but just have no clue when the fluid was last changed
 
Thanks for the help. I am looking for a smoother 1-2 and 2-3 shift. The tranny works fine but just have no clue when the fluid was last changed

MTL will help make the shifts smoother, but it's no miracle worker. For me, I had a slight grind, more like a buzz, going from 1–2 on cold days with the Mopar fluid. It's still there if I shift too quickly when cold, but it's much improved. The 2–3 shift was a bit sticky in 2 with the Mopar fluid, and MTL solved that entirely. So, YMWV as they say. The NV3550 is a box of rocks but it should last a long time if you take care of it. My only advice is if you ever replace the transmission, go with a brand-new AX-15.
 
It made no difference in my 2000 tj.I have 1000 miles on it now and it shifts the same. I never knew that tranny was hard to shift between 1st and 2nd.It is my 1st jeep.I had brass showing up in the oil I drained .Not good but the jeep had 180,000 miles on it and possibly the original.I used the redline.I shift it slowly and no grinding between 1st and 2nd now.
 
As far as I know there is only 1 Redline MTL
Sorry I know this is an older thread, but I changed the fluid in my NV3550 with MTL and it is not much better. My second is not great, and my 3rd and 4th are kinda clunky if I shift too fast. Double clutching helps a lot, but wont that wear the clutch faster? I feel like the synchros are probably the culprit. Since I cant really dump a ton of money into the Jeep right now since I just changed the head, i am gonna have to live with it. I can definitely live with this clunky shifting, but just want to make sure its gonna last a while longer. Everything works fine, just a little bit of a hesitance before going in certain gears. It's not even hard to get into gear, you can just kinda feel a bit of hesitance. Thanks
 
Sorry I know this is an older thread, but I changed the fluid in my NV3550 with MTL and it is not much better. My second is not great, and my 3rd and 4th are kinda clunky if I shift too fast. Double clutching helps a lot, but wont that wear the clutch faster? I feel like the synchros are probably the culprit. Since I cant really dump a ton of money into the Jeep right now since I just changed the head, i am gonna have to live with it. I can definitely live with this clunky shifting, but just want to make sure its gonna last a while longer. Everything works fine, just a little bit of a hesitance before going in certain gears. It's not even hard to get into gear, you can just kinda feel a bit of hesitance. Thanks
MTL is a superb lubricant and it's very likely the very best available for the NV3550 and NSG370 but it's not a miracle worker and it can't solve mechanical problems. It's great for restoring good shifting characteristics when the existing lube is worn out or the wrong lube was installed.
 
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MTL is a superb lubricant and it's very likely the very best available for the NV3550 and NSG370 but it's not a miracle worker and it can't solve mechanical problems. It's great for restoring good shifting characteristics when the existing lube is worn out or the wrong lube was installed.
Yes I know that, and the MTL has helped a little, but not a lot. So my question is, can the NV3550 go a while on worn synchros? They are not terrible and the transmission stills works great, just need this transmission to last a while. Double clutching helps, but does that wear the clutch faster?
 
Changing to the RedLine allowed me to find 6th gear which I could not find at all previously. And now R is easy to get into, witch prior was a 50/50 chance. It can do nothing for a smoked syncro. It is only oil. All shifts improved greatly for me.
This will never be a fast, grab and slam type of transmission. A smooth calm movement is what is needed in my TJ. If you want to prevent it is a formula 1 you are driving this transmission will quickly bring you back to reality.
 
MTL is a superb lubricant and it's very likely the very best available for the NV3550 and NSG370 but it's not a miracle worker and it can't solve mechanical problems. It's great for restoring good shifting characteristics when the existing lube is worn out or the wrong lube was installed.
Yes I know that, and the MTL has helped a little, but not a lot. So my question is, can the NV3550 go a while on worn synchros? They are not terrible and the transmission stills works great, just need this transmission to last a while. Double clutching helps, but does that wear the clutch faster?
A couple years ago I could barely get into second gear. Changing to Redline absolutely fixed that.
As for synchros, I rarely use them. I'm a truck driver and am used to floating the gears on 9 and 10 speed trucks. Double clutching pretty much unnecessary, and kills my knees.
If your synchros are bad, try floating the gears. It won't fix them, but they won't be a problem.
Some will say that it wears the synchros, but I don't see how NOT using them hurts them.
P.S.
I have a 1994 Nissan truck that has 105,000 miles on it, the last 70,000 with the gears floated. Mechanics that have driven it ask when I got the new clutch installed.
 
A couple years ago I could barely get into second gear. Changing to Redline absolutely fixed that.
As for synchros, I rarely use them. I'm a truck driver and am used to floating the gears on 9 and 10 speed trucks. Double clutching pretty much unnecessary, and kills my knees.
If your synchros are bad, try floating the gears. It won't fix them, but they won't be a problem.
Some will say that it wears the synchros, but I don't see how NOT using them hurts them.
P.S.
I have a 1994 Nissan truck that has 105,000 miles on it, the last 70,000 with the gears floated. Mechanics that have driven it ask when I got the new clutch installed.

What do you mean by 'floating the gears'?
 
What do you mean by 'floating the gears'?
Floating the gears is shifting while not using the clutch.
Double clutching was mentioned earlier. To double clutch, you first let up on the throttle, then push in the clutch. Shift out of gear. Release the clutch. When engine RPMs are lower, and match the RPMs of the transmission, you push in the clutch again, shift into the next gear, and release the clutch.
The key is matching the RPMs. To shift into gear, the engine RPMs MUST match the RPMs of the transmission.
To float the gears, you do the same thing WITHOUT using the clutch.
First, let up on the throttle. This takes any pressure off the gears. Shift out of gear. When the engine RPMs are lower, and match the RPMs of the transmission, you can shift into the next gear without using the clutch.
It sounds harder than it is. You probably shift out of gear when coming to a stop without clutching anyway. This just takes it a step further.
The first few times you will probably grind 'em a bit. Don't worry, just try again. With a little practice you won't even notice that you're doing it. I found myself doing it while test driving The Muddog the day I bought him.
 
Floating the gears is shifting while not using the clutch.
Double clutching was mentioned earlier. To double clutch, you first let up on the throttle, then push in the clutch. Shift out of gear. Release the clutch. When engine RPMs are lower, and match the RPMs of the transmission, you push in the clutch again, shift into the next gear, and release the clutch.
The key is matching the RPMs. To shift into gear, the engine RPMs MUST match the RPMs of the transmission.
To float the gears, you do the same thing WITHOUT using the clutch.
First, let up on the throttle. This takes any pressure off the gears. Shift out of gear. When the engine RPMs are lower, and match the RPMs of the transmission, you can shift into the next gear without using the clutch.
It sounds harder than it is. You probably shift out of gear when coming to a stop without clutching anyway. This just takes it a step further.
The first few times you will probably grind 'em a bit. Don't worry, just try again. With a little practice you won't even notice that you're doing it. I found myself doing it while test driving The Muddog the day I bought him.

Thanks for the explanation.
 
When I switched to Red Line it took about a week before the shifting attitude really improved. It was better immediately, but best after a week of foreplay.
 
How important is the 0.1 quarts of the 2.1 quarts needed to fill the nv3550? I filled up using two quarts of redline mtl and at $20/qt should I be buying a third quart to top it off?
 
You know it's full if fluid seeps out from the filler hole while the tires are on the ground (or a level lift). I wouldn't take a chance of it not being completely full.