Rocky Mountain Billy Goat Build

I’ve called and emailed and used their contact form to ask about how to get that applied since it wasn’t an add on during checkout, with no response. I got fed up and just ordered - hopefully that’s not a big mistake, I assume it’s mostly the break in?

The REMs basically require no break in. Not a big deal as it is smart to check the setup shortly after install anyway. Your rig is coming along quick!
 
The REMs basically require no break in. Not a big deal as it is smart to check the setup shortly after install anyway. Your rig is coming along quick!

It is! It’s hard to remember I’ve only had it just under 2 years. I’d say I should have skipped the 33s/2.5” but I’ve made money on every part I bought and took off to sell...

Currently I’m trying to decide the best way to sell the wheels/tires - together or separate.
 
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Since my summer season has mostly been an intermittent crap show since mid June, I’m still accumulating parts. Many of these installs I could do at home, but I plan to work with a buddy in his more equipped garage because more hands are often more fun.

The “used” (but really unused) axle shafts for the rear fortunately didn’t have the drum setup pressed on for me to remove. However they also didn’t include the wheel studs - so I’m pending a small order for those as well from RGA
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The old PCM is on the shelf as I await the @Wranglerfix. I’m pretty confident my PCM is toast, so my LJ’s life is mostly in flux as I wait.

Generally, this wouldn’t matter for me. However my wife’s car is tossing some potentially threatening codes as well and we only have the two cars. We are in a bit of flux about what’s next, hopefully her car isn’t also toast as we are in event season - and she is an event planner.
 
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Nows the time to trade it in. Dealerships are offering some pretty good deals due to Covid.

I usually think it’s cheaper to own and fix than replace - so I’ll give it a shot in the garage once, but won’t chase issues like I’ve done with the Jeep since there’s nothing special about a Hyundai.
 
I’d rather have it right than fast, so still waiting on the pcm. I’m bummed, but still optimistic given the reviews around.

On my wife’s car, they have to replace the engine which they ironically inspected around a year or so ago for related damage (under a recall)... crap techs to not catch excessive engine wear then IMO. Fortunately it’s covered under warranty. Guess I just suck at owning and maintaining cars!

The Jeep build, assuming the pcm does it, will pick up with some heat again. I’m prepping for a San Juan + Moab trip in early September...
 
I’d rather have it right than fast, so still waiting on the pcm. I’m bummed, but still optimistic given the reviews around.

On my wife’s car, they have to replace the engine which they ironically inspected around a year or so ago for related damage (under a recall)... crap techs to not catch excessive engine wear then IMO. Fortunately it’s covered under warranty. Guess I just suck at owning and maintaining cars!

The Jeep build, assuming the pcm does it, will pick up with some heat again. I’m prepping for a San Juan + Moab trip in early September...

What was the failure in wife's car?
 
What was the failure in wife's car?

Oil flow to the connecting rod bearing causing damage to a decent number of parts.

https://www.hyundainews.com/en-us/releases/2696
One major issue here I have is the “service tech” recommended a crapload if additional service items, one being a coolant flush. As we all know, if you swap an engine you’re replacing a lot of fluids including coolant. They were less than useless on my questions as to why they’re recommending a $200 service that should be done as part of the swap...
 
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I’m a bit bored, so I’m prototyping out a lockable storage area for some longer “overland” style trips I have planned. My general goals with this idea:

1. It needs to work with the rear seat in.
2. It needs to be modular for when the rear seat is out.
3. It must be able to bear weight on top
4. It will have tie down rails on the sides
5. I may want some top-entry panels to reach the innerds toward the front seats if I extend it into the rear seat’s area.
6. It has to be removable for the trail days

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This first version shows me the shape of this isn’t necessary. The next version will be much more rectangular, probably with a less severe angle (if any) toward the seat. To secure it down, I’ll either use the factory nutsert that I believe is there, or I’ll just put some in.
 
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I’m a bit bored, so I’m prototyping out a lockable storage area for some longer “overland” style trips I have planned. My general goals with this idea:

1. It needs to work with the rear seat in.
2. It needs to be modular for when the rear seat is out.
3. It must be able to bear weight on top
4. It will have tie down rails on the sides
5. I may want some top-entry panels to reach the innerds toward the front seats if I extend it into the rear seat’s area.
6. It has to be removable for the trail days

View attachment 182796

This first version shows me the shape of this isn’t necessary. The next version will be much more rectangular, probably with a less severe angle (if any) toward the seat. To secure it down, I’ll either use the factory nutsert that I believe is there, or I’ll just put some in.
I'm going over options for lockable rear storage in the LJ too. I'm trying to come up with a solution that makes it locked when the tailgate is locked. In my TJ I had the rear seat out and simply made a platform that attached to the rear seat mounting points. In the LJ I would like to keep the rear seat in.
 
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I'm going over options for lockable rear storage in the LJ too. I'm trying to come up with a solution that makes it locked when the tailgate is locked. In my TJ I had the rear seat out and simply made a platform that attached to the rear seat mounting points. In the LJ I would like to keep the rear seat in.

Here’s my second pass, basically I want to build a template I can use to make a metal one:

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The down piece should be trivial and I’ll likely use nutserts on the wheel well and a V from the top to lock it down to accomplish the Locking insta trunk goal.
 
So you are drilling into the wheel well? I am also in the template stage. So pissed that I threw the huge pieces of cardboard that my Trektop came in away. Still trying to figure out how I will fasten it down and deal with the very thick carpet padding.
 
Drilling into the wheel well is my current plan unless something better comes up as I play around. I figure that way I can cut a little notch in the carpet that flips up.

I’m also considering a U-bolt around the rollbar (Haven’t pulled the plastic cover to validate it’ll work yet) since I’ll have mine about an inch or so spaced up (due to the square tube I plan to use to frame the bottom). That way I can put the bolts on the inside of that and without the tailgate open they won’t be accessible.

What ideas are you toying with?
 
Drilling into the wheel well is my current plan unless something better comes up as I play around. I figure that way I can cut a little notch in the carpet that flips up.

I’m also considering a U-bolt around the rollbar (Haven’t pulled the plastic cover to validate it’ll work yet) since I’ll have mine about an inch or so spaced up (due to the square tube I plan to use to frame the bottom). That way I can put the bolts on the inside of that and without the tailgate open they won’t be accessible.

What ideas are you toying with?
Trying to avoid drilling. Someone else here used chain link fence clamps around the roll bar. Next I will use a scrap of plywood to make a piece much like yours. Problem is from what I can tell even if a rear shelf is right up against the rear seat the seat can still be tumbled forward and gain access to the storage area.
 
Problem is from what I can tell even if a rear shelf is right up against the rear seat the seat can still be tumbled forward and gain access to the storage area.

Im going to add a removable backing plate, hoping that if I ever delete the rear seat I could expand it while still keeping the small option available.
 
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Thanks to the BFH garage, we got the bearings and retainers pressed on the axle shafts and installed.

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We also swapped my front rotors, calipers, and BMB pads. These pads are already great feeling - now they’re cooling down so I’m excited to see them in action a bit later.

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I can’t wait to drop these spacers...
 
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