Any advice on installing Currie 4” at home?

So when adjusting the axle to center on the bumps, should my upper control arms have to be at different lengths to have each side centered?
 
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Pinon matters more than the bumps do. Get the bumps close enough to make solid contact. More importantly to understand, the final position of the axle, where the pinon, bumps, wheelbase, clearances, etc all land where they need to be, will need to be arrived at little by little with small adjustments and cycling the axles. One adjustment will effect all the others.
 
how's it coming along?
Working on it a few hours in the evening after work and the weekends. It’s eating my lunch actually....

maybe I’m trying to get it too exact. I’m not sure of the control arm lengths on the lower side. I got the bumps lined up from the side view and installed the springs last night. Tonight I’ll install the new shocks, put the tires back on and put it on its own weight. Then deal with centering the axle and pinion angle. if I fight it much more I’ll just put it on a trailer and have someone else finish it. It’s taking all my spare time and with a newborn.... well the wife isn’t too happy with me.
 
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Working on it a few hours in the evening after work and the weekends. It’s eating my lunch actually....

maybe I’m trying to get it too exact. I’m not sure of the control arm lengths on the lower side. I got the bumps lined up from the side view and installed the springs last night. Tonight I’ll install the new shocks, put the tires back on and put it on its own weight. Then deal with centering the axle and pinion angle. if I fight it much more I’ll just put it on a trailer and have someone else finish it. It’s taking all my spare time and with a newborn.... well the wife isn’t too happy with me.
HaHa! I totally get that man! It sounds like you're pretty darn close. nothing wrong with taking your time and getting everything measured up right though!
 
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HaHa! I totally get that man! It sounds like you're pretty darn close. nothing wrong with taking your time and getting everything measured up right though!
Well first off this is my first full suspension kit to install on a vehicle, done plenty of levels and such. Secondly, they’re instructions are by the piece instead of a full on kit... which is aggravating. So I’m wearing google search out for some help and you get 900 different ways to do something. For instance ... control arms bolts should be free enough at ride height to just push out... well mine sure the hell aren’t so it makes me think I’ve done something wrong. I’m just going to do it and see how the end result comes out.
 
Square the axle to the frame. Center the axle using the gunsight method. Line the bumps up in a way that works with the axle raised up all the way. Get the pinon in a good spot at ride height. Cycle the axle and check for clearances. Fix any interferences. Fix the pinon. Cycle the axle again to check for interferences.

There is a window where everything works. Nothing is exact. Pinon matters the most. Don't overthink it.
 
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Here’s where we are now. Axle is shifted 1/2” drivers side, I’ll fix it later. Pinion angle... measuring off the top of pumpkin I’m +5.4* and drivershaft is measuring 12.4*. Now from what I’m reading I need to roll the axle up 3.5* to Get a flat line??
 
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View attachment 190339Here’s where we are now. Axle is shifted 1/2” drivers side, I’ll fix it later. Pinion angle... measuring off the top of pumpkin I’m +5.4* and drivershaft is measuring 12.4*. Now from what I’m reading I need to roll the axle up 3.5* to Get a flat line??
Ideally you'd like to measure from front of housing on the flat spot with the round indentation on it on either side.
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You would like your pinon to be lower than ds by a few degrees if possible without vibrations for decent castor. I'd start with 2* lower and play with it later to dial it in until you reach a balance between steering that doesn't feel light and no vibrations. Suitable pinon angle being more important. I got to about 4* lower with my set up. Pinon 10.5 , ds around 14.5. Yours will be different but thats idea.
I'm not an expert but successfully installed the same lift not long ago and had similar questions answered here.
 
Just get it close for now. You'll want to drive it and tinker with it a bunch once everything is tightened. Thats the beauty of the double adjustable ca's. Loosen the jam nuts and fine tune angles.
 
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I know every jeep is different, but could someone throw some measurements my way... I’m measuring from the center bolt on the transfer case skid to the front axle tube right against the C, getting like maybe a 1/16”. But why do my springs look like this? Also that measurement is 49 1/8” passenger and just over 49 1/16” driver. I’m about to lose my mind.
 
And for anyone wondering why I’m trying to do this myself, no shop around was willing to install this due to me not buying from them.
 
you spotted the bumps equally and just made minor adjustments for the pinion angle, correct?

then it is what it is. once you lift the rig the connection point is lower in the travel arc this can position the axle slightly behind the upper spring mount until it compresses and then comes forward to spot right where you lined it to the bumps.

as far as that 1/16" try several points of reference not all are exactly symmetrical side to side always. and don't have to be equal since you spotted those bumps