Is this track bar relocation mount okay?

JTJ1999

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So as I was reading through some topics trackbar relocation brackets seem to be a hot issue among some. I was looking at mine because I knew it had one and I just wondered if there was anything wrong with having it as it moves the track bar further forward to clear the diff better as far as I can tell. And my drag link and track bar are parallel like they're supposed to be. So is having this bracket a problem?

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Ugh, that's a mish-mash of fuckery right there, that's for sure.

Can't tell if that's a dropped pitman arm or not, but it's definitely got a dropped track bar bracket, some sort of hodge-podge mount to move the axle-side track bar mount out further to apparently clear the diff (a solution to a problem that doesn't exist with a good track bar), and some sort of weird ass sway bar bracket mounts.

I'm assuming it isn't using the stock steering setup, do you have pictures of that?

There's a lot wrong here, that's for sure.
 
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Pitman arm is a stock replacement from omix, the bracket as far as I can tell is just a generic one as I've seen a lot that attach the same way online. Also the reason the axle hardware might look different is this Dana 44 is out of an F-150 so all of its different. The sway bar is some form of Antirock whether it be currie or some other company. The steering is currie currentlync now that just got installed. So basically same as stock.
 
Pitman arm is a stock replacement from omix, the bracket as far as I can tell is just a generic one as I've seen a lot that attach the same way online. Also the reason the axle hardware might look different is this Dana 44 is out of an F-150 so all of its different. The sway bar is some form of Antirock whether it be currie or some other company. The steering is currie currentlync now that just got installed. So basically same as stock.
You need to tie a string from the pitman arm hole to the passenger steering knuckle hole. Then do the same with both track bar holes. You want the angle of those strings to match up as close as possible and the length of the strings to be as close as possible. That’s the goal for proper steering geometry and the only way to see if your setup with work (obviously not worrying about bumpstop extension and all of that)
 
You need to tie a string from the pitman arm hole to the passenger steering knuckle hole. Then do the same with both track bar holes. You want the angle of those strings to match up as close as possible and the length of the strings to be as close as possible. That’s the goal for proper steering geometry and the only way to see if your setup with work (obviously not worrying about bumpstop extension and all of that)
Yeah I've done that before and the angles were basically identical but obviously the length was a bit different. Bump stops are set correctly and even a bit over as of the last time I cycled my suspension. I was thinking about getting a new track bar from currie but I really don't have any issues with the current one and it's configuration so I made this to see if there was a good reason to change it. Thanks for your input!
 
That was a pretty common mod back in the day. I've done it that way a few times. That looks to be a Rubicon Express trackbar, or at least the frame side is. I would pull springs and check uptravel, make sure it doesn't smack the diff. It also looks to have lowered the mount an inch or more, so make sure the drag link is close to same angle.
 
That was a pretty common mod back in the day. I've done it that way a few times. That looks to be a Rubicon Express trackbar, or at least the frame side is. I would pull springs and check uptravel, make sure it doesn't smack the diff. It also looks to have lowered the mount an inch or more, so make sure the drag link is close to same angle.
Didn't smack the diff last time I cycled and nothing has changed that would make it do it now. And their angles are basically the same but I'll give it a check tomorrow in case I'm crazy and since I've installed new steering
 
What's so bad about it?

Why is it needed? Just buy a track bar that doesn't cause interference to begin with.

This to me seems like a way to solve a problem that could simply be solved with a properly designed track bar.
 
Why is it needed? Just buy a track bar that doesn't cause interference to begin with.

This to me seems like a way to solve a problem that could simply be solved with a properly designed track bar.
This is mainly what I've heard. So basically what I want to know is. Would I see any major benefit by removing the relocation bracket and installing the currie adjustable track bar (or other track bar if there's something better). Because I'd like to have nice stuff on my Jeep and quality parts done right. But I don't wanna drop several hundred dollars for no tangible benefit
 
Why is it needed? Just buy a track bar that doesn't cause interference to begin with.

This to me seems like a way to solve a problem that could simply be solved with a properly designed track bar.
When this Jeep was built, if I can tell from the parts on it, it was built before Currie made their current chromoly bar with offset joint. ANd before Metacloak's. AMong the options were two styles of RE trackbar, this being one of them. All of them interfered with the diff if my memory serves.

Getting rid if the single shear mount was a marketing point too. I wadded up a first gen Currie bar, and also let a bolt get loose and broke that single shear bolt off in a rock garden.

Seems like if this mount clears the diff, and is good angle, it fits the bill.
 
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This is mainly what I've heard. So basically what I want to know is. Would I see any major benefit by removing the relocation bracket and installing the currie adjustable track bar (or other track bar if there's something better). Because I'd like to have nice stuff on my Jeep and quality parts done right. But I don't wanna drop several hundred dollars for no tangible benefit
The Currie chromoly bar really is the best bar you can get. Clears great, is very strong, and joints last a long time. Problem is your trackbar mount taper may be drilled out.
 
The Currie chromoly bar really is the best bar you can get. Clears great, is very strong, and joints last a long time. Problem is your trackbar mount taper may be drilled out.
So basically what I'm hearing is leave this one alone until it gets worn out and then go for the currie? Because I've got access to a welder and could easily fix up the factory mount when the time comes. I just wanna build this jeep right. The guy I bought it off of did a pretty decent job and I wanna keep up the trend of good work and good parts.
 
When this Jeep was built, if I can tell from the parts on it, it was built before Currie made their current chromoly bar with offset joint. ANd before Metacloak's. AMong the options were two styles of RE trackbar, this being one of them. All of them interfered with the diff if my memory serves.

Getting rid if the single shear mount was a marketing point too. I wadded up a first gen Currie bar, and also let a bolt get loose and broke that single shear bolt off in a rock garden.

Seems like if this mount clears the diff, and is good angle, it fits the bill.

I get that, it was just designed before the aftermarket had actually figured things out.

So in reality if it works, just keep it the way it is. I haven't been around TJs long enough to see some of this stuff. Even the Nth and AEV stuff is before I was into them.
 
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So basically what I'm hearing is leave this one alone until it gets worn out and then go for the currie? Because I've got access to a welder and could easily fix up the factory mount when the time comes. I just wanna build this jeep right. The guy I bought it off of did a pretty decent job and I wanna keep up the trend of good work and good parts.
It may look like shit, but if it clears everything, the angle is good, isn't loose, then it is trackbar-ing correctly. :D
 
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