A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

I'm pretty sure these new horns have been with me since the mid 80s. They're made in Italy and are very loud. They make a good replacement for the anemic single horn I had and I didn't have to go buy something else. I thought about throwing these out multiple time, but kept telling myself..."I'll use these one day!".

I also installed a spare fanbelt and idler pulley, which I roll up and attach to the hood support rod.

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If Murphy's ever finishes (or even starts on) my Jeep, I'm totally taking my spare fan belt out of my tool bag and ripping off your idea. That's great!
 
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SkylinesSuck said:
If Murphy's ever finishes (or even starts on) my Jeep, I'm totally taking my spare fan belt out of my tool bag and ripping off your idea. That's great!
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I've carried one for years, seen on the driver side support rod, on my LJ. It has come in handy twice on the trails in the last ten years. Once for me, once for someone else.

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Looks like I'm finally ready to order driveshafts.

Rear = 16.00 inches, with the transfer case side being a stock 241 flange. The axle side is a 1330, stock Rubicon 44.
Front = 41.25 inches, with the transfer case side being a stock 1330. The axle side is a 1310, stock Dana 30.

What I'm wondering about now is whether the Dana 30 axle side U joint should be a 1310/1330 hybrid joint? I've used these before, but I don't believe Spicer makes a non-greasable version. The 5-134X (greasable) is all I could find.
 
Irun said:
Looks like I'm finally ready to order driveshafts.

Rear = 16.00 inches, with the transfer case side being a stock 241 flange. The axle side is a 1330, stock Rubicon 44.
Front = 41.25 inches, with the transfer case side being a stock 1330. The axle side is a 1310, stock Dana 30.

What I'm wondering about now is whether the Dana 30 axle side U joint should be a 1310/1330 hybrid joint? I've used these before, but I don't believe Spicer makes a non-greasable version. The 5-134X (greasable) is all I could find.
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What would be the purpose of the 1310/1330 hybrid joint? In case you decide to upgrade the front axle to a Rubicon 44 later? If so, what do you think is the likelihood that that will happen?
 
Yes, for a later upgrade. I'd have to shorten the driveshaft if I installed a Rubicon 44 front, but wouldn't need to swap the driveshaft end.

As for when, I have a Rubicon front 44 sitting on a stand in the garage now. The 30 went in because I'm focusing on keeping the weight down and had access to a Rubicon rear 44, along with a 4.10 geared Detroit TrueTrac Dana 30. That will meet my needs, until I decide it doesn't. No telling when that will be!
 
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Driveshafts are ordered from Tom Woods. I'm excited because I'm finally going to be able to put the Jeep on the road! Now I can turn my attention to the last details, including:

- Finishing the interior (BedRug, Tuffy console, etc.)
- Painting and installing the Savvy rocker guards
- Painting and installing the Savvy corners, tailgate armor, and rub rails
- Painting 1/2 doors
- Installing new soft top

:)
 
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Irun said:
Looks like I'm finally ready to order driveshafts.

Rear = 16.00 inches, with the transfer case side being a stock 241 flange. The axle side is a 1330, stock Rubicon 44.
Front = 41.25 inches, with the transfer case side being a stock 1330. The axle side is a 1310, stock Dana 30.

What I'm wondering about now is whether the Dana 30 axle side U joint should be a 1310/1330 hybrid joint? I've used these before, but I don't believe Spicer makes a non-greasable version. The 5-134X (greasable) is all I could find.
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You oughta send those numbers to Trevor and tell him he owes me a dollar.
 
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The rear seat/cargo area has been cleaned up and the Bedbug installed. I've done at least 6 or 7 of these and really like the fit and functionality. Not hard to install either.. Of course everything has to be cleaned and painted, that can be.

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Knocked out the remaining big stuff on the interior:

- Front BedRug
- Tuffy underseat drawer
- Tuffy center console
- Washed the seats I picked up cheap (they're in amazingly good condition)
- Wired in the locker switches

Since the console was originally tan, I had to paint it grey, but still need to swap the tan arm rest out. I bought some material, which will be used to sew a replacement cover. The last thing that needs taking care of is to finish wiring up the transmission temperature gauge.

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Psyched to see it get dirty soon! Those are the seats I have, and I have to say that they’re very comfortable over a long day on the trails.
 
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Gotta love when a 20 year old stock California Jeep makes it way to the East Coast! and I totally get the thread name, I jumped on the LJR bandwagon built up on 35s and its like driving a tank, nothing like my first TJ sport I got in 2006 on a 2"lift and 31 bfgs that I drove everywhere on the west coast for 5 years seeing heavy abuse in Ocotillo Wells and many other Socal jeep trails. Light and nimble! Great thread and attention to detail updating the old tj!
 
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Ardenlonewolf said:
Gotta love when a 20 year old stock California Jeep makes it way to the East Coast! and I totally get the thread name, I jumped on the LJR bandwagon built up on 35s and its like driving a tank, nothing like my first TJ sport I got in 2006 on a 2"lift and 31 bfgs that I drove everywhere on the west coast for 5 years seeing heavy abuse in Ocotillo Wells and many other Socal jeep trails. Light and nimble! Great thread and attention to detail updating the old tj!
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I've built several TJs on 33s and currently also have a 2004 LJ on 35 inch tires. Driving a TJ on 31s is my favorite!
 
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Now that all the major mechanical work and Savvy UA is done, I'm about to start on the body armor. On the list to finish up is the following:

- Savvy Rockers
- Savvy Corners
- Savvy Tailgate Skin and Valance
- Savvy Rub Rails

I know this has been covered across multiple threads, but I spent some time this weekend aggregating all the best information I could find on the Rocker and Corner Armor installation. This is because although I've installed the first three items in the past, I did not do it correctly. To help minimize the same outcome, I'm adding what I found here, for my own reference. As a caveat, first, any place there are quotation marks are where @mrblaine himself provided specific input. Second, this is long!

Lastly, I'm confident I'll be corrected, where I missed or mis-represented something!


Tools Needed:



General Tips:

  • If you’re installing a Savvy Rocker and Corner armor, install the Rocker first!
  • ”The aluminum backer runs wheel well to wheel well”
  • “The steel slider runs between OEM fender flares”
  • “If the aluminum is to be painted, I strongly suggest one of two things. Deal with a shop that has experience painting aluminum that knows to use an aluminum primer or get them powder coat primed by a shop that knows to sandblast and then get them coated right away before the protective layer of aluminum oxide forms. I've seen many sets done by body shops that did not do it correctly and the paint peels over very easily. That isn't saying that any power coat is better if they are clueless as well.”
  • When drilling holes in the tub, make sure to apply paint to any places you drill. This will help keep future rust down.


Procedural Tips:

  • Test fit, drill holes, and install Rivet Nuts before painting
  • “A simple trick that most overlook somehow. Clamp the rocker or corner in place at its final home. Most have 3/8" holes in them for clearance around a 5/16" bolt. Take a good 3/8" drill bit and drill motor and drill through every hole that gets a fastener. Don't mark and remove and try to center punch and drill, just drill through the holes. That will let you drill out the ones that take a nutsert and the larger bit will self center on the 3/8" hole you drilled and give you enough leeway on the ones that don't need a nutsert. Keeps all the nutserts centered on the mounting holes.”
  • Installing Rivet Nuts into the aluminum backer, where the slider attaches, allows you to easily remove the steel slider. For this installation, a longer Rivet Nut (specifically, the splined section) is needed. Cheaper options are available, but this is the type needed:
  • “Washers are used on the bolts that go up into the torque box. Fender washers should be used inside the front fenders and at the last hole in the torque box if the hole in the back hits the hole in the torque box. Put a fender washer on top with a flange nut.”
  • “We set clamps loosely but snug to hold them in tight to the sides at each end. Then we use jack or jacks to move the outer corner up so it preloads the bend and opens it up slightly without pulling away from the tub any where. One thing that helps is a Bessey clamp and clamp the outside lower edge in the middle-ish using the back side of the torque box to pull against.
    I have a 4 x 4 I stand on end that has a bevel on it that matches the lower angle out where the corner is. The jack will want to roll so lay some pieces of 1/4" bar stock in front of and behind the solid wheels at the vehicle end of the jack. Then go back to the end clamps and tighten them up.”
  • “Another thing we do is take a nice file and ease the inner edge of the top to slow down the paint damage if you get the edge too high and need to pull it back down.”
  • “If you aren't lifting the side of the rig up about 6-8", you don't have enough preload.”


Typical Installation Mistakes:

  • “Biggest mistake I see folks push them up too high which rolls the lower edge outward which makes the vertical side out of parallel with the side of the tub. Peek in the ends and make sure the backer is tight to the body and then as high as it should go.”
  • “Second mistake is not parallel to the door opening. Sometimes due to install error, sometimes due to bent tub. Don't drill a single hole until you know that the corner will fit nicely on top of the backer without a gap at either end. Don't get rid of the gap by raising the corner armor out of parallel with the top of the tub all the way around.”
  • “There are only a few TJ Unlimited tubs that are not bent. We typically have to trim the lower edge of the corner so they fit correctly now. The gap is typically 1/8" at one end to zero at the other. No, it isn't a manufacturing defect in the corner or the slider.”


Instructions:

Savvy Rock Sliders - https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/savvy-rocksliders-v2-pdf.218180/

Savvy Corner Armor - https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/savvycornerarmorinstruction-pdf.218182/
 
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Had to remove the rear differential cover last night, for two reasons. First, the rear Rubicon locker wasn't working. After removing the cover, I discovered the internal hose to the actuator wasn't fully seated. In this case, there's only me to blame. Before installing the rear, I cleaned everything thoroughly and must have missed fully seating the hose and small spring clamp. After another cleaning, and attaching the hose properly, the locker is working as it should.

Second, I had to remove the LubeLocker differential gasket, because I couldn't get it to seal properly. Even after taking a flap disc and fine file to smooth and flatten the surface areas, there was still a drop of gear oil hanging down on the bottom of the differential. This was unacceptable, so a coating of RTV Ultra Black was added, the cover re-installed, and another problem has been solved.
 
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The new Tom Woods driveshafts will be here today. This means that after 10 months of working on the Jeep, I'm finally going to be able to put it on the road. Of course there's more work to do first, because I'll have to install the new soft top that's been sitting in the box for more than six months now. The next big hurdle is getting it inspected. Here, you never know what to expect for that!
 
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That sucks about the Lube Locker gasket. I've had good luck with them up to this point but will wait to pass judgement until mine is back on the road.
 
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Wildman said:
That sucks about the Lube Locker gasket. I've had good luck with them up to this point but will wait to pass judgement until mine is back on the road.
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I've installed more than a dozen LubeLocker gaskets and this is my first failure. I'm not going to be critical for one out of twelve!
 
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