Need Advice for Broken A/C Clutch
- Thread starter SSTJ
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Head over to the TJ Resources sub-forum, download your factory manual and check out section 24-1. It has a description of the clutch operation, diagnosis, and replacement procedures. If your clutch just took a shit then it's pretty straight forward - just remove the belt, swap out the clutch & call it a day. Check the manual out & then let us know if there's anything in there that isn't covered by your situation.
Edit - are you a pretty handy DIYer? Not trying to call you out or anything, just trying to figure out where you're at on stuff & how much help you need.
Edit #2 - Just a thought if your TJ is a daily driver - I haven't ever done it myself, but according to the diagram in your FSM on page 7-31 it looks like you might be able to just go get a non-AC serpentine belt in the meantime & skip the AC compressor. That could buy you some time to figure it out at your leisure without having to take it to a shop & at least make it driveable if you don't need AC. Just a thought.
Edit - are you a pretty handy DIYer? Not trying to call you out or anything, just trying to figure out where you're at on stuff & how much help you need.
Edit #2 - Just a thought if your TJ is a daily driver - I haven't ever done it myself, but according to the diagram in your FSM on page 7-31 it looks like you might be able to just go get a non-AC serpentine belt in the meantime & skip the AC compressor. That could buy you some time to figure it out at your leisure without having to take it to a shop & at least make it driveable if you don't need AC. Just a thought.
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Nice, thank you. I might consider that to buy some time, since it’s no longer AC weather here anyway.
It’s not quite a daily driver. I work from home and we have a second car. I can take my time on this.
And no, I have almost no mechanical background. This is a new hobby and I am keen to do what I can and learn as I go. Most advanced thing I’ve done is swap springs and re-align, or drop the tank and fix my fuel ‘burp’ problem.
Alright, if you can do that you can definitely change an AC clutch. When you get into changing a compressor it gets a little more complicated with having to evac & recharge the AC system, but the clutch itself doesn't involve any of that. Check out your manual & post up any questions you have.
I don't see a picture of your problem, but there's a clutch and bearing. In my years of experience normally if the clutch is worn slap out the compressor is right behind it. Lots of times compressor locks up and clutch disintegrates, the bearing can go out, you'll hear noise all time not just when a/ C on. Anyway I'd replace compressor and clutch,bearing asm ,or bypass compressor with non AC belt. Good luck !
Thanks, this is helpful. You’re right, there is no picture, but in the original post I linked to another post in which I had attached a video of the problem.
I’d love to hear more about how I can tell whether this is just a clutch problem, or more. It sounds like you’re saying that maybe I will end up needing to just swap out the whole unit, compressor and all.
I can post more videos like that if it would help with this diagnosis.
Edit: I see that the link wasn’t working. Updated it now. Also here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/sudden-‘dry’-and-‘open’-sound-update-stranded-with-broken-a-c-clutch.55427/#post-969048
If you have a way to recover the 134a, I would just replace the compressor. A new compressor is less than 150.00 from rockauto.
Thanks. I'm new at this, so I have to ask: when you say to just replace the compressor, you mean 'the whole thing', compressor and clutch, etc.
I don't have a way to recover the 134a, unless I could do so with a simple manifold gauge set? I'd prefer to just replace the clutch, but you and @Jeff Spike are making me think I might had better just replace the whole thing?
So the way it works is that the compressor clutch is magnetic. When the AC control knob is in a non-AC position the clutch is disengaged which allows the pulley to freewheel around the compressor without spinning the internals. When its in this condition you can look at the face of the compressor while the engine is running and the inner part of the pulley should be stationary.
When the engine is running and you turn the knob to an AC position (one with a snowflake) the magnetic clutch engages and the outer pulley connects itself to the inner part of the pulley. Now you're spinning the compressor and using your compressor.
What happens when you just turn the HVAC off? Does it still make the squealing noise?
If it were me at this point & I would remove the clutch & see if the compressor shaft still turns smoothly.
When the engine is running and you turn the knob to an AC position (one with a snowflake) the magnetic clutch engages and the outer pulley connects itself to the inner part of the pulley. Now you're spinning the compressor and using your compressor.
What happens when you just turn the HVAC off? Does it still make the squealing noise?
If it were me at this point & I would remove the clutch & see if the compressor shaft still turns smoothly.
The compressor bearing and seal assembly will be the next to go bad after swapping the clutch assembly.
IF the compressor bearing goes this will lock up compressor, break the serpentine belt, possibly damage the radiator and cooling fan/clutch assembly.
Agree with the others on bypassing the compressor with a non A/C belt or not drive the Jeep until you can afford to replace the compressor.
IF the compressor bearing goes this will lock up compressor, break the serpentine belt, possibly damage the radiator and cooling fan/clutch assembly.
Agree with the others on bypassing the compressor with a non A/C belt or not drive the Jeep until you can afford to replace the compressor.
Thanks. Yeah, even tow truck driver (who gave the same clutch diagnosis just by the sound it made as I pulled up on the loading bed) told me that once this goes bad, it’s probably time to replace the compressor anyway.
Thanks again. This is super helpful. As you can tell from the video linked in my first post, the squealing happens when the compressor is not engaged, when the belt should be spinning things freely. So it’s when the compressor is engaged that things sound ok.
Attached is a new vid that shows how even when AC is on and compressor is engaged (the quiet scenario), I now have a scratching/ticking sound that concerns me.
Thanks again for this idea. Just ordered a non-AC serpentine belt, arriving Tuesday, to buy me some time to figure this out, compare shop quotes, or learn how to do it myself.
Although this is only my own experience, my A/C clutch bearing failed several years ago. I got a puller and removed the clutch and pressed out the bearing. Took it to Napa and had it matched, pressed in the new one and it's been fine since. All my drive belt bearings, tensioner and idler have been replaced before. I know the older clutches are different but if it's similar I'd start with that. Cost wise it is far less than anything dealing with the compressor and the bearings are around $25.
I like it. I need to read my FSM and then I think I’ll know what you mean.
Update: I'll be installing the new non-AC serpentine belt today or tomorrow, which will buy me some time to read the FSM and explore my options. If I do end up buying a new compressor, are there any recommendations on brand or model? Maybe they're all the same, but I've learned on this forum that for some parts (radiator, fuel pump), that there are some clear preferences in terms of brand.
Edit: For example, RockAuto has these brands:
Edit: @pagrey or @qslim or @CharlesHS, do you have any recommendations here?
Edit: For example, RockAuto has these brands:
Edit: @pagrey or @qslim or @CharlesHS, do you have any recommendations here?
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Hey again. Just did this, so now I'm up and running. Next step is to read the FSM (I've had a busy week) and see about removing the clutch to check things out.
Edit: Wow, this vid shows just how loud it had gotten before the new belt. Compare to previous video.
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Alright, several others have warned me that I probably need to just replace the whole unit, but I'm considering the clutch replacement just for the experience. Did you need this 'special tool' mentioned in this screenshot?
Mine was different but for free most auto parts stores rent complete A/C clutch puller and adjustable clutch tools that lock like this wrench. OTC 4537 looks like it might work.
Edit: funny how that wrench is just sitting on the clutch with the pins in the wrong direction in the illustration with the socket wrench just resting on it, "here are the tools just randomly placed on the clutch, go figure it out."
Edit: funny how that wrench is just sitting on the clutch with the pins in the wrong direction in the illustration with the socket wrench just resting on it, "here are the tools just randomly placed on the clutch, go figure it out."
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Ha, yea I couldn't figure that out. Thanks for confirming that I'm not misunderstanding the picture.
And ok thanks, maybe I'll see if my parts store has a clutch puller and locking wrench.
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