Recent content by acct21

I bought (and sold) the hype. Figured the OEM radiator lasted 16+ years, so why not go back with another OEM? Now I'm replacing the 3 year old Mopar water pump that's bleeding out of the weep hole, exactly one week after replacing the 3 year old Mopar radiator that separated at the top tank.

Replacing a 3 year old Mopar this week, of course 1 week after I replaced the 3 year old Mopar radiator. I would suspect they're all trash now. OEM on these vehicles means nothing.

That divider isn't attached to the tank and the core, so water just flows over and bypasses it. Here's a great way to prove it to yourself. Figure out the total volume of the heater core — its around 300-400mL. Fill it half way with water you colored with some food coloring. Attach a hose...

Absolutely would avoid at all costs. The baffles in the tank do not seal one side from the other, so coolant just bypasses through the upper tank without actually going through the core. They claim to have "fixed" this with higher fin density — when it's not the fin density that's causing the...

I just can't recommend this company, based on my experience with them. Extremely dismissive with my concerns about low heat output, and after installing it a second time it developed a leak. The new fin count is highly unlikely to make any difference. Based on my unit this is a poor design.

To me this is just 'lipstick on a pig.' The one I bought has an upper tank that does not have a complete baffle between the inlet and outlet core tubes. So water just goes in the inlet and immediately back out the outlet without going through the core. I would suspect that this is a design...

Read up on them. Hot garbage — no pun intended

The Brassworks we put in our 2005 put out 103F max — at 210F operating temp. Then it sprung a leak. Then the owner quit responding to warranty claims….

This thread was linked from another discussion around heater cores, so I wanted to add my experience with the Brassworks in our ‘05. Installed but there was little to no heat output — at 210F operating temp best we got was 103F at the vents. Pulled it because I figured there was an install...

Not a guru. I’d guess your loaner pump isn’t strong enough to pull the vacuum, or the gauge is off. If another pump isn’t an option, I’d replace the dryer and send it as-is. If you hold vacuum as you say, a leak is unlikely. If the pump can’t get all the way down you’ll have — in theory — a...

My Brassworks I bought for our 2005 is garbage. Clearly had a bypass in the upper tank (coolant wasn’t going through the core, just into the upper tank and immediately back out). Sent back under warranty and they did not repair it — just repainted it. Reinstalled and still getting lukewarm...

The AA part number is listed for 1999-2000. I have found a couple of the AA blanks — will they work on a later ('05-'06) SKIM system, or were they specific to the earlier Jeeps?

I have one of the KeyParts door skins. As has been mentioned, they're only good if you have a rusted 1/2 door with all the hardware, the hinges, and the interior panels intact — because finding those parts will be just about impossible. But it was great for a single door that was bulging out...

Unfortunately they all appear to be re-boxed versions of the exact same Chinese-made unit bearing. Timken, Moog, SKF — even 'Mopar' branded OEM are Chinese. If they have the red poly seal and spots with obvious casting flash, they're all coming off the same assembly line. There does not...

http://www.keypartsonline.com/03-06-half-door-shell-drivers-side/ http://www.keypartsonline.com/97-02-half-door-shell-drivers-side/ I believe the only difference is the size of the hole for the door lock cylinder, since they changed in 2003. Both door shells use the later (post-5/99)...