Recent content by danof76

Haven't posted in a long time and this is the one forum I didn't want to be creating a thread in but here we are. We are selling our 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 4.0L, 5Spd. Just a little history: we are the second owners and have a clean blue title to go with it. We have taken meticulous care of it...

I feel so bad for you guys up in rust country and I'm all the more thankful this isn't something I have had to contend with. In my unprofessional opinion on rusty frames that thing looks pretty gnarly. I don't think I'd even want to do a frame swap on that, even if I had a dedicated shop and all...

That's always the impression that I have got: that it's tedious but not necessarily difficult. Install, check pattern, remove, shim, reinstall, repeat until it's right. I've heard people doing this literally dozens of times before it's right, but that's the basic gist of the process. It can't be...

My NV3550 has a slight grumble as well, but nothing I have ever considered alarming or even notice much. If that hasn't really changed before and after the suspension work I wouldn't think anything of it. Only time "bucking" happens to me is a drop in RPMs and the Jeep isn't moving fast enough...

Also, just to make sure, you haven't changed anything recently, have you? Like within the last 1,000 miles, let's say. Anything related to engine, suspension, drive-train, etc.? Anything at all, even fluids. Just checking...

My guess is clutch issue. If it grumbles in neutral with the clutch engaged (pedal up) but not when the clutch is disengaged (pedal down) then there's something in that connection that's possibly not making good contact. What doesn't make sense to me there is why it would go away after a few...

I'll just leave this here:

Not so much that the rears are difficult as the front shocks are all facing right at you and much more easily accessible. The rears aren't much more difficult, however if you're in an area prone to rusting some people have issues with the top bolts where the shock mounts. Best idea is to spray...

Shocks are about one of the easiest things you can do. Literally just bolts and nuts and they don’t even torque down much at all. You are well enough prepared to do that work if you’ve ever used a ratchet and a wrench before. If you’re really concerned then I suppose a shop could do it, if they...

That's a Chevy/Ford debate as far as I've seen. Whomever has one has never had problems with it and seen the other fail all the time, everywhere, in the worst place possible and it took the driver to the afterlife along with it. I can only go off anecdotes: I don't have either and don't plan on...

The 30 spline Dana 35 ARB locker is compatible with 3.54 and numerically higher gears. Since it's a new carrier everything will need to be reshimmed to it when it's installed unlike a lunchbox locker that replaces the spider-gears within the carrier and can be done by most here in the garage. I...

I think if @Tank97 has any other Jeepers in the area he may want someone who knows about the 4.0 and it's drivetrain to give a second opinion. Coincidences happen, but having RPM related issues after replacing the distributor is certainly a coincidence that shouldn't be ignored. Not like he is...

Sorry, I sold it to @ceccx650 already, I forgot to mark it sold, my bad!

Something for sure needs to be replaced inside. Plastic bits are still made by Crown Automotive but I don't know about the bars used to connect them together, you may have to fab those, I can't find any with a quick search. If the door won't open at all you may be able to Jimmy it open with...

SEM Black Trim paint seems to work wonders from what I have heard but have never tried it. I bought a $20 Wagner Fumo 300 heat gun at Home Depot and did this on the sway bar cover. Here are pics before and after. Honestly neither do justice and both look too similar to each other whereas in...