Recent content by davidgoodman

I needed a smaller one for the tuck, I went with Magna-Flo. Bought it from Summit Racing.

I did all mine last year when I did the tuck. None of them compressed and where all torqued to spec.

You don't have to remove the axle, but you obviously have to remove the LCA. Make sure about the measurements for the LCA bolt hole before welding the new bracket on

I posted that mine was doing this and found the final solution a couple days ago. What ultimately fixed mine was a steering gearbox. And yes, both the front and rear suspension components, steering linkage, ball joints and track bars all have to be without play.

I have been reading the forums for a long time trying to figure out what to do to fix my Jeeps steering issues. I wanted to post my findings to hopefully help someone else fix their dangerous steering. Several have posted similar symptoms - this is what mine was doing. Could not drive it...

I am running one I got from NAPA. It runs fine but I still have a CEL......

I took mine off for repair, it's a 97 rustbelt Jeep. You are on the right track. I used a torch with a small welding tip, it took 3-4 heat-cool cycles to get them to break free. You have to get the bolt red hot then let it cool, lather rinse repeat. I put the blue feather in the center of...

I will be doing the control arm upgrade soon. Based on all the posts I have read here I have decided on Currie. Looking for feedback on the front axle housing kit. Do most of you include this also? Guess this would allow more front axle articulation, but based on my build so far is this over...

Here is mine sitting on 31’s. OME 2” spring lift, 1” body lift. I think the fenders are Rugged Ridge Hurricane. It hits most of your requests.

Check your T-case shifter adjustment. If it is not fully engaging, it can pop out and make a grinding noise. There are several You Tubes about how to adjust it.

For those that requested pics of the TMR crossmember. The plate is 1/4”. I had made repairs to the bottom of the frame and used weld nuts, they protrude 1/4”. So I have 1/2” drop from the frame.

I was not able to get the pics of the TMR crossmember today. I did pick up engine vibration to the frame at idle. Will be experimenting with solutions, I have 1/2 of vibration dampening rubber in between the transmission and the crossmember. It improved it but some still exists. I am wondering...

I’ll take some tomorrow

I just finished the TT project on my 97. I used the TMR crossmember kit and a Barnes 4WD flat skid plate.

Well that's certainly stripping her down!