Recent content by Fargo

I'll be interested to see how the cam performs. I'm replacing the cam in my Jeep in the next couple weeks or so due to my OPDA tearing up the gears. I'm torn between a Comp cam or just sticking with the OEM cam. Unfortunately, I'll probably be done with my cam before the testing is done here...

So I had an OPDA failure this spring and looking at my camshaft the gears look pretty worn. Worn to the point I don't want to drive it out of fear of losing oil pressure So its time to replace my camshaft. Are there any good high quality recommendations? My first priority would be a camshaft...

Any other thoughts on that cam gear in the first post? Do I need a new cam ASAP or can I run it with that worn cam? I was thinking about driving it through the summer with that old cam and then replacing it this winter. But knowing myself, if it worked through the summer, I'd probably drive it...

Good points. That crack will tighten up as it slides into the OPDA. So it seems unlikely it moved unless it was not in all the way from new. So its possible the shaft is bent slightly. That might also explain why it didn't spin with even resistance all the way through its rotation.

Both units have the red locking tabs. I was referring to the inside of the plug. You should see it in the pictures.

So looking at the sensors I found some interesting things. It doesn't change that my cam gear is still really worn, but I've made some interesting observations. First off the sensor that came out of my Dorman appears to have rubbed the timing wheel a little and the housing has a crack. Could...

So spinning the old Dorman OPDA it spins relatively freely, but not consistently. As I spin it, I can feel it spin easily then get a little harder. Or if I start in a section that has more resistance, I will feel the resistance suddenly disappear and it will spin quicker with the same force...

I got a P0344 Code. I never spun the Dorman. I did noticed that it felt pretty free with the little movement it had with the lock pin in it. I'm going to look at things again tonight. I've read they can spin free without a load, but bind up with a side load. So I'll look it over a little...

The problem that I see with that solution is that the cam was fine when I changed out the previous OPDA for the Dorman. So I think the Dorman was sticking and caused the wear on the cam. I wonder if the dorman gear was hardened more than the cam gear and the cam took all of the wear. Also I...

So a couple of weeks ago I got a P0344 Code and my LJ went into limp mode. Having previously replaced my OPDA with a Dorman unit about 10 years ago (but only 40,000 miles on the Dorman unit since then), I was aware of the OPDA issue. So I ordered a Crown OPDA and installed it last night...

Some good info in this thread if you haven't seen it yet. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/does-control-arm-bushing-composition-affect-ride-quality-or-nvh.13928/page-30#post-1425249

I'm not aware of anything new. But then again, my LJ has kind of become my garage queen and only gets out in the summer. So I've not looked into anything for a couple years.

I can't believe I missed the updates on this thread. Is that the Mopar performance DDB or the standard JL bushing. I thought the Mopar bushing had a free inner sleeve like the Synergy. Now I'm confused

The Mopar TJ bushings are just clevite rubber. The Mopar performance lift kit for the JL includes arms with DDB bushings. But only applicable is your building custom arms. Although Synergy has pretty much quit the TJ/LJ the Giiro joint and Rancho DDB are pretty much the same thing if not...

Don't confuse the isolator with a spring spacer. The 1/2 spacers are much firmer material and you will likely get noticeable NVH if you remove the factory isolator. The spacers are intended to work with the isolators. Since your running the soft top, I'd be surprised if you need an additinal...