Recent content by fizzlebottom

How incredibly frustrating. A tiny amount of plastic wears away so now we're forced to buy an entire assembly instead of a single part.

Awesome. Sucks that you got a damaged panel. Technically you could probably (very easily) swap the new switch into your old undamaged panel if you are so inclined. After you've got all your stuff working again, take the old switch and see if you can identify the failure point on it. I'm just...

Given how patterned these control panels are, there's no way the 'manufacturers' are actually manufacturing the rotary switches themselves, which leads me to believe that they should be available from someone like Digikey or Mouser. They aren't fairy dust either. Just 4 position switches spec'd...

Given how grody the back of that switch is, I wouldn't table the possibility that the contacts are just filthy as hell. That's especially possible since you got some continuity when you wiggled something a little. If you are so inclined, and you can find access to the switch internals, get some...

What I posted comes from 8W-42-2 in my '05 FSM, though I realized its from the 'Heater only' section. It seems to be the exact same in the section including AC (8W-42-4)

The testing procedure in the FSM only checks for continuity between all contacts. You can measure each individual resistor value by measuring resistance between pins 1&2, 2&3, and 3&4. They don't seem to provide resistor values at all in my '05 FSM. Fan speed position 1 goes through resistors...

Resistors in the pack are connected in series, so if all positions are testing the same (input to individual resistor leads) then something is definitely faulty. What is happening internally is that in the lowest position, all resistors should be in circuit. Turning the fan up removes resistors...

I installed axles from Ten a few years ago, also with Spicer joints preinstalled. Mine have not made any noise, so I wouldn't say that yours are normal. But it is very tough to see with that lighting and your hand in the way: Is the u-joint making that noise or could it be the wheel bearing unit?

Grease and check all of your U-joints. Check all of your suspension bushings / ends and see if there's play, tears, or wear beyond limits. The rattling might be your throw out bearing if that noise is happening while you're bringing the clutch pedal back up. If nothing is rearing its ugly head...

Is it the squeaking, creaking, the groaning, or the rattling that you're asking about?

When my Dana 35 grenaded, I replaced with a Dana 44 and had both diffs regeared to 4:10 (or 4:11?). I think they were Yukons. Can't remember now. One thing to note is that I had to have my rear driveshaft shortened by like 0.75". Drum brakes, brake lines, and vent tube all lined up the same for me, so...

Sounds like the actuator pin to me. You have one on the way, so get that installed and see how it goes. Mine left me stranded in a grocery store lot and sound similar to what yours is doing. Gave me trouble once or twice, then successfully started eventually, and then gave up completely. It...

Go get your Service Manual here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-factory-service-manuals-fsm-technical-documentation.4618/ A copy specifically for 2001 isn't listed, so you can likely just use the '99 manual. The maintenance schedules for various years aren't all too...

Looks like an absolute gem. Here's my advice: Change the fluids on schedule Drive it and enjoy it. Do not let it sit and gather dust. Do not be afraid to use it like it was meant to be used. When issues pop up, don't panic. Come here, ask the experts, and take a breath. That's it. Just drive...

I was reading up on the bypassing the DRL system just earlier today while researching this, and noticed the one thread on here that effectively resulted in "cut the wire coming from the Vehicle Speed Sensor", though it seemed either a few people said it didn't work or I'm just not confident...