Recent content by JeepingNet

This post is as much for me to document for myself what I'm doing to get some feedback as it is asking for help - More of a discussion. I'm finally tackling the leaky valve cover. But while doing this job, I'm finding many questionable old original parts and wondering if, since the jeep is now...

The options already given are great so I'm going to give you the last resort but typically what I go to in my rusty part of the world. If you are throwing away the shocks. I Sawzall just under the nut and cut the shock right off.

I have it so one of my jacks will fit right here (see arrow) It's one of my smaller 3-tonne jacks but often have it there when doing simple jobs and normally as a backup to my jack which is often right where you have that jack. I believe there was a thread either here or on another forum where...

I ran coyotes but I find I always use my ARB (though mine is Currie branded). I typically air down to 6-8psi and I found the coyotes sometimes would stop higher than that. I'd adjust them but they never really worked well. For a while I'd put in 3 coyotes at 12 psi and use the ARB to get them...

It is really is annoying when people are like that on the trail. I wheel with a few groups but I tend to stick to the Jeep groups not because I think Jeeps are better but because there seems to be less bashing. When someone on a Jeep runs starts up into that "oh those toyotas..." I always reply...

I know you didn't ask me but here is what I have planned for when my next pump dies. You can wire it in so it uses the factory switches but to me, it is better to use aftermarket switches since the factory runs through the PCM and restricts when the lockers can work and not work. I still get a...

I took the factory bolts with me to the hardware store and just found something that matched. First I find a nut that will fit onto my existing bolt to get the size and thread type and then just find a bolt that is the right length. I agree the bolts that came with my kit didn't work either.

I've setup a few gears and just read through this thread. As mentioned a good starting depth is taking your pinion baffle thickness. You certainly will need carrier shims. So there are a few things that could be causing this to happen. Its also possible the shims could be under your pinion...

I just checked.. ARB and Viair also advertise their CFM at 0 psi as their CFM rating.

We mostly run the genright out here. I've gone through 2 window frames. Lots of off-camber in the woods. Trees love window frames in the boreal forest.

Yup, it is. Some of the other brands come with better or worse hoses and accessories. My buddy has one called "Up Down Air" and its identical but the hose it came with was horrible.

A few guys I wheel with have this smittybilt but my single ARB beats it. There is also a rip-off version of the smittybilt that people say is just as good. I bought my ARB 12 years ago and it has been on 3 different jeeps, always mounted under the hood. I like it so much I'm moving it over to...

I have the poison spyder quarter panel on my LJ and it has saved my butt (literally) a few times. The only downside is adding after-market flares might not always fit but that's always a possibility when combining mods. I think down the road I'm going to replace them with some full length that...

In the rust belt a lot of us lately are using Steel-it to paint surfaces that will be hidden after welding. Then just sticking with a good yearly or spring/fall frame treatment of woolwax or fluid film. You can also use a paint wand to get something like Eastwood inner frame paint up inside but...

Yeah Tj parts are being hard to come by and I'd certainly fight with the insurance company to get your value. If you want to keep it and need a tank genright makes some nice aftermarket ones