Recent content by mwn

Finally got the non-a/c control panel sorted out and wanted to update this thread in case it helps someone else. This turned out to be all wrong: Bottom line: the a/c and non-a/c control panels absolutely do use a different vacuum harness. I'd have realized this sooner if I'd looked up the...

That's not really accurate either: I'd figured out quite a lot of what I needed (hardware grade, bolt length, cam-delete options, etc.). I just needed to know whether a flange-head bolt (or washer) was required here, hence: And now I know that I do not. Thank you! Have a fantastic weekend. 😘

Except that if I had the factory hardware I wouldn't be using the JJ washers at all. 😁 But this gets me going: As always, thanks for your help!

If I didn't know better, I'd swear you were trolling me. Though, I suppose, I don't actually know better. 🤣 There's nothing special going on here: stock control arms, BMB JJ washers (but only because I like you), new 10.9 hardware. The issue is that I cannot source a 110mm long 10.9 M14...

I'm confused: the front bolt is about 10mm longer to accommodate the added thickness of the cams/cam deletes/your JJ washers/whatever someone has in the "horseshoe" to locate the bushing pivot. This is why I can't use one of the 100mm flange-head bolts that I already have: the threads barely...

As far as I can tell, the "parts list" PDF for my '01 only lists the the cam version, and the only non-cam OEM options I could find are used off eBay. I figured it was better to buy new 10.9 hardware than eBay of unknown origin. 🤷‍♀️

Assuming centered "cam delete" washers or something like @mrblaine's Johnny Joint washers, do I need an M14 washer behind the head of a standard (non-flanged) hex bolt for the axle-side front lower control arms? and if I do need a washer there, is a hardened HV200 washer (like this one)...

Adding this expression to my lexicon, thank you. (y)

From the descriptions on BFG's website (screenshot), I believe the 116 models are C rated and the 121 models are E rated. Vendor sites like Tire Rack, Costco, etc. typically indicate the load range in their listing (second screenshot is from Tire Rack). Others will know more, but looking at...

Indeed, this helped. In terms of shaping the shoes, is this doing anything different than normal braking or is it just a faster way to do it since using the parking brake stops the entire weight of the vehicle with only the rear brakes?

After my initial mistake (assembling both secondary shoes to the passenger side backing plate), I am 99% confident that the smaller/primary shoe is to the front on both sides with the larger/secondary shoes (that hold the adjuster lever and spring) to the rear. I did a series of hard stops from...

Didn't think about at the time, and didn't see this called out in any of the resources I followed, but safety glasses should 100% be part of the procedure: those springs are stout and even with tools don't much want to cooperate.

One follow-up here is that the drums have self-adjusted a bit tighter than seems reasonable: I can now feel them dragging in lower gears and when coasting at slower speeds, and I can smell them even after short drives around town. Reading up on this now, but I'm grateful for suggestions if...

See attached: the "hook" tool I couldn't find and the "pliers" I ended up using. .

I only did new calipers because one of the originals was sticking. And so far the broken-in BMB pads really seem to live up to all the praise they get around here. (y) For the rears, I also picked up a return-spring tool from the local auto parts store. I was looking for the style that's a...