Recent content by swtrailboss

Finished fixing up an older clock I picked up from an older couple. Installed a new led light inside and removed a 3lb fluorescent ballast from inside. Pretty cool find!

The noise could be a manifold leaking. Check the bolts(studs) specifically back by cyl #4 to see if any are missing……this isn’t going to fix the misfiring but as JKP said plug, valve spring , head gasket or injector. Check all the above.

I truly don’t think a 16 year male old will ever understand what the word “deficiencies “ mean until they are about 28 or 29. Usually their first connection is the deficiency of their bank account if they own a JEEP! Next is the deficiency of their bank accounts after the “ pre owned “ wraps...

Even though you’re in Texas the frame rust would numero uno!!!! If the owner hasn’t owned it for very long that either says he flips them for profit or quickly found out something major was wrong with it. Again as the previous poster stated “frame rust “. Everything else can be easily be dealt...

So are you now getting the 12V +or-.5V measurement at your fuel pump connector after repairing the wire harness?

Bouncing between what readings? So what you are saying is it’s more noticeable between 2800 and 3000rpm but the fuel pressure will still drop into the 10 psi range when you are hard on the throttle and above the trouble rpm range?

Possibly the pump is worn and just can’t keep up with the volume demand when foot is on the accelerator. Have you verified if the RPM range is higher than 3000 does this pressure still drop to the 10 psi range? Even if it seems to be running normal ?

If you’re getting 43degrees at the vent and pressures are good then I would leave it seeing all components are new. 👍

Never saw in your thread description of the repair if you ever drained and measured the new compressor oil from the compressor prior to installing.

If the clutch itself becomes worn or the gap is excessive the clutch characteristically will engage when cold but as it heats up the gap gets too big and the compressor coil can’t engage the clutch plate. Another thing to consider on top of the harness issue CharlesHS has experienced. I believe...

When the vehicle dies did you notice (before the restart attempt) if any of the dash lights were illuminated? Of not then you could have the electrical portion of the ignition switch starting to fail and slowly worsening. This also would explain a no code situation.

Duuuuuuuude! This vehicle is +20years old …..like the last post said he had it professionally restored. You CANT complain about poor preparation for paint flake on a vehicle with that kind of time on its body…….come on! Really?

Live and learn!!!!! That’s life! Easy to hear sometimes hard to follow.

Yeah he knows it too!!!! 😂🙄 I’ve owned a lot of dogs but his personality by far says “I’m King” 🙄

Your comment “compressor was locked up” tells me you likely have debris floating around in your system. Whether you call it an expansion valve or “FOT” fixed orifice tube it’s likely it has some debris clogging it causing the high side psi to be out of range. Definitely have your system...