Recent content by tagunz

Hey everyone, I am on the verge of replacing my frame; finally addressing the largest flaw of my Jeep. What are some maintenance items I should perform while I'm in there? This can include those only possible while the frame is off or more easily completed under the circumstances. Model...

I am currently replacing all my old rusted brake lines with pre-bent stainless steel. I'm on the last line, and at some point, PO replaced the front passenger side hard line with universal tubing, so I can’t figure out the path the line has to go through. I am stuck on whether the driver's side...

question 1: yes, it has all the same positions as a 231, plus the extra function in full time 4wd (including same crawl ratio in 4lo as 231); for context, they were offered in XJ as an upgrade and meant to be used in low grip situations on asphalt (i.e. rain, slow, sleet, gravel, etc) where...

Alright guys... important update. np242 is installed and running!! here in MD we get a lot of flash floods so I have been able to test its usability and I will say I am very impressed. turning is no where near as bad at full lock. When driving above 20 mph, it feels no different from 2wd...

yeah it did, clutch engages great now. i recommend checking your hydraulic clutch linkage first for failure (rusted line, slave cylinder failure, etc.) before taking it to the mechanic and then go from there. if the clutch slave cylinder failed, then it can be replaced without removing the bell...

i’m not 100% sure but when mine broke it wouldn't drive at all

i had the same issue and it ended up being the throwout bearing. while i was in there i replaced the pivot ball and clutch retaining spring/clip, all parts that break easily/wear down. but either way i had to drop the bell housing to do the repairs; the parts all together are only about $60 in...

ok guys finally have an update. I sent her to a trusted mechanic who gave me a good price for dropping the bellhousing ($500) and replacing all the obviously worn/broken parts. I ended up replacing 4 parts that cost $60 in total: the clutch fork, clutch fork pivot, clutch fork retainer...

well... i thought i made it out of the woods... so after 2 weeks of trying to get the stupid thing out i finally just got it. i thought i was set and i reinstalled everything to start her up... had the new slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder in... and then it failed AGAIN! i’m not sure...

looking at it now it seems like the boot is also still attached

good news is i am finally able to confirm it’s really in there. bad news is i still can’t get it out through the inspection plate. i tried pulling it back with an inflatable bag type contraption which worked well, but there just isn’t enough space in the gap to grab it with anything because...

i looked online about the inspection cover but it says i may not be able to remove it if I don’t have the transmission disconnected from the engine. I may be wrong so i‘lol still try it tomorrow. I’m pretty sure the ball bearing is from the slave cylinder because i found some ball bearings in...

ok guys so I got some good news and some bad news: good news is I got the starter off after a few expletives bad news is I couldn't find the pin but instead pulled out two pieces of metal wire (I believe one was from the spring in the slave cylinder) and a bearing ball (also seems like it was...

also the tool i have is a flexible magnetic pick up which i believe will work

thanks for the responses guys. going to get that pin out through the inspection cover once i remove the starter. it’s a PITA but at least i probably won’t need to drop the tranny.