Recent content by Thunder Mass

Gotcha. Because the 4.0 is a straight 6 and the LS is in a V configuration, it's a lot wider. If the highline reduces the room under the hood for wheel well mounted components, I figured a wider engine would only exasperate the issue. Not impossible to work around, just more difficult.

I understand the desired outcome, I'm just not sure how to get there. The tire patch to pivot around the center point... does that mean neutral backspacing (4" backspacing on 8" wide wheels, 5" backspacing on 10" wheels) or the center of the tire over the balljoint? Or something else entirely...

I'm wondering the same thing. I'm planning on going to 37s, just not sure the axle yet. It looks like JK Rubicon axles are probably enough, but maybe not. ECGS 489s are a little bit better, but at that price you're almost at custom 60s when going to 65 WMS.

The only thing about the metalcloak is that the flares are easily removed, so I can keep them on for the street, and remove them for the trails. There's a shop Wildman recommended in Portland that does the highlines, I'll look into them next time I'm down that way. Not sure which way they do...

What did you end up with as your overall width? It's kinda hard to tell but you don't look too wide.

Thanks for the input. You had said 65" axles for 37s, and about 67" for 40s. That would put me at 78.5" wide with 37s (12.5" wide) and 81.5 for 40s (13.5" wide). Unfortunately that sounds like it'll be a bit too wide for me, as I'm trying to stay under 80" overall, closer to 76-78" to fit...

I won't be using the same wheels if I go to 37s, as I've got 15" wheels and will need to go to 17s. I originally figure for 37s that're 12.5" wide, go with a 65" axle, 5.5" backspacing (I have no idea, just went back to factory) and end up with 74.5". Then I thought either go with 1-2" wider...

I know there's great info on here, but yes it's hard to navigate past the rest. Kinda like when I was in the navy; people are more interested in telling you that you're wrong than educating you so you can be better. For now, I'm aiming at 37s with a 76" overall width, and 103" wheelbase. But...

I'm probably about the same as you; 60.5 wms, 35x12.5 tires, 8" wheels with 3.75" backspacing. Should be about 73.5" overall. I've never had issues in Washington, but in Moab it gets a bit squirrely when I'm off camber, so I would hoping to go up to 76" or so with 37s. I'll probably end up...

What wheel size/backspacing would you recommend for for the 37s? And for the 40s? Looking to stay between 76" and 80" overall, if feasible. Is there an axle width and backspacing combo that would work for 37s, and later change the backspacing to upgrade to 40s if desired?

I just looked into them; looks like they do good stuff, thanks for the suggestion! Not sure if I'll do highline metalcloaks for removable flares, or highline factory flares like AEV. I haven't done much on here lately, it seems like I get more criticism than answers lately. I don't see...

I live near Tahuya, and have only gone there and Walker Valley, and once to Moon Rocks. I'd like to go to Reiter, Elbe, and Naches. I also go to Moab every other year, and would like to do most of California, Colorado, and.tje rest of Utah. I keep breaking my dana 30 (Moab) so I need to...

I'd like to know what his final width and wheelbase is, and how well it works. Looking to do something similar with my LJ in Washington.

All businesses wanna make money. But they lie about their performance. What I need is to stop breaking front axles. What I want is to improve my departure angle, and potentially increase my suspension travel offroad. I can't tell you the exact shocks I have, but they are Old Man Emus. They...

Normally, I'd agree with just swapping the tank. But if I don't stretch it, then keeping the tank is beneficial. It saved me on Hole in the Rock and White Rim. Yeah, I saw that tread. I love the idea of Metalcloak, but not the truth.