Recent content by Tim_with_the_tj

This old soft top and doors don’t use those. Not made for them. I ended up adjusting the roll bar length to the windshield and the latch striker position. Door shuts better now.

Fwiw, with my new sending unit… when the fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank I know for a fact there is roughly ~6.5 gallons in the tank, because that’s what I put in there from it being bone dry after reinstalling it. Hope this helps anyone who was wondering, but doesn’t want to run their tank dry...

I suspect mine is just like yours although I have not torn it apart to see. I did manage to get the nut slightly tighter with an impact. It made no difference. I installed the new front driveshaft and have no vibrations up to 70+ mph (haven’t gone much faster than that). FWIW, I have found...

Lol. It’s all good. I didn’t have much trouble. It helped having some good bits and stepping it from 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I also used a little oil, but the water inside the frame came pissing out of the hole while drilling, which put a stop to that idea real quick.

I pushed them tight against my face and squinted. It was better than nothing and zero hit my eyeballs so we are good. P.S. I decided to have a beer instead of the wine.

After having my corkscrew shower I’m reconsidering having that glass of wine. Anybody got a bottle? @jjvw

I knew I had seen something like this before, but couldn’t find it. Thank you!

You talking about the body panel gaps on the lower half door and the tub? The body gaps looked good, but I’ll look again. If you watch the video you’ll see there’s a gap on the rearward part of the upper where it should seal to the soft top better. I’m not sure how to adjust the windshield...

Both doors. The passenger side is 50% better, but still missing some paint on the windshield frame from the upper door rubbing too hard when closed. I would say the pins could be bent on the upper door frames…but they seat onto the lower half doors just fine. No gaps on the weather seal at the...

That was my first thought, but I was hesitant to do it since there was no evidence (on the paint at the hinges) that they’d ever shifted out of position. Maybe they were just never adjusted in the first place when the soft uppers were replaced at some point. Upon looking more closely, there...

Hmmm. I would have to see a side-by-side comparison of the two uppers to be sure. Let me see if I can find any photos. Edit: After looking at some YJ pictures, mine are certainly all TJ parts.

Bought the Jeep a while back and have been prioritizing other things, but it’s been like this since I got it. The soft uppers contact the windshield frame and make it difficult to close the drivers door specifically. I have to really slam it shut or it will only latch halfway closed. The top...

I do believe you are right. Haha. I appreciate the post and yes, I would like to keep on seeing things moving forward in life…so I’ll be wearing these. Younger and dumber me might not have worn them.

Hard pass. Not into wine anyway.

I will remove and take a look behind the rear bumper after drilling the four typical frame drain holes. There is one bolt that’s snapped off in my rear bumper from a previous owner. When I remove the bumper I’m gonna drill that broken bolt out and I’m not looking forward to it… so in my mind...