Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

Got the cutout for the power port done.
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With 1 12v port and 2 USB ports I'll have a minimum of 4 USB ports. I might have to add another 12v port somewhere near the front of the console 🤔.

Then cut the spot for the STaK's shifter larger.

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And then marking all the mounting holes.

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I've still got to mark the tub for the center console mounts and drill them and install the nutzerts.

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@jesseshoots had asked yesterday what my impression of the GR center console was.

My one complaint other than no instructions is this.
The spot they picked for the rear bracket.

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It's right where the two ribs are.

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And the first two nutzerts I'd tried didn't catch enough metal to set. This is also a area where it's got another layer of metal under it. So I had to dent the lower part enough for the nutzerts to fit.
IMO they could have moved it 2" forward or gone behind the ribs.

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I did finally get some nutzerts to work. There might be some that are made for situations like this? I don't know about that and can't ask the person who might know.

Because I'd drilled the holes in the STaK's shifter bracket I'm painting it to cover the bare metal.

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And while I'm waiting for the paint to dry I got the holes drilled for the STaK's shifter in the plate.

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So I figured I'd do a little mock up for the rear AR and of course came up with a issue. To clear the upper air bag bracket I've either got to use the bent arms.

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Or if I use the straight arms they'll hit the upper bracket.

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But then laying a straight arm under a bent arm shows that it's length is in-between the 2nd and 3rd hole.

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With the AR pushed as far forward as I can get it here is where I'm sitting.

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I'd have to trim off the first 3 holes. Which really isn't much shorter than the bent arms. Then I could use the multi hole axle brackets.

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I can't verify any of this until I get my new tires and the rear axle rebuilt.

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This is probably a dumb question and someone way smarter than me has already asked it but what is between the the frame rails under the tub in the area of the frame arches where you WANT to mount the Antirock? Theoretically you’d only be lowering it a couple inches and you could weld in tubes to get the frame strength back and then use bushing like the front Antirock. I’m not at home to look at my own so forgive the ignorance.

If nothing is there couldn’t one cut holes through the frame and basically make the Antirock for the rear mount like the front Antirock does?
 
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This is probably a dumb question and someone way smarter than me has already asked it but what is between the the frame rails under the tub in the area of the frame arches where you WANT to mount the Antirock? Theoretically you’d only be lowering it a couple inches and you could weld in tubes to get the frame strength back and then use bushing like the front Antirock. I’m not at home to look at my own so forgive the ignorance.

If nothing is there couldn’t one cut holes through the frame and basically make the Antirock for the rear mount like the front Antirock does?
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@01TJ-Blues Yes I guess you maybe could run it thru the frame. In the universal kits they give you a piece of tubing that the bushings fit into. But in the area where you circled I think the driveshaft would hit it. I'll take some pictures later for you to show what I am talking about.
 
This shifter from NWF (Northwest Fabrication) in Canada is really well built. It has plastic washers that go between each of the shifter levers.

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I mounted it to the center console temporarily so I can run the cables and see how it all is going to fit.

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I also connected the transmission cable to the shifter so I can get this mocked up. I'd thought I might be able to use the spot where the parking brake cable went thru the floorboard and had kept the seal that goes there. So far it seems to be working.

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I've got the shifter sitting in place and the cable was fished thru the floorboard and tomorrow I'll work on connecting the cable to the transmission. A member over on Jeep Forum (Chris) used the same shifter on his YJ that he swapped a V-8 & 46RE into. So I'm going to use his ideas for mine.

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Once I've got the transmission cable connected then I'll also do the STaK's cables.
 
@01TJ-Blues Yes I guess you maybe could run it thru the frame. In the universal kits they give you a piece of tubing that the bushings fit into. But in the area where you circled I think the driveshaft would hit it. I'll take some pictures later for you to show what I am talking about.
The DS could be in the way, just thinking of possible solutions if there were any.
 
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This shifter from NWF (Northwest Fabrication) in Canada is really well built. It has plastic washers that go between each of the shifter levers.

View attachment 294223

I mounted it to the center console temporarily so I can run the cables and see how it all is going to fit.

View attachment 294224

I also connected the transmission cable to the shifter so I can get this mocked up. I'd thought I might be able to use the spot where the parking brake cable went thru the floorboard and had kept the seal that goes there. So far it seems to be working.

View attachment 294225

I've got the shifter sitting in place and the cable was fished thru the floorboard and tomorrow I'll work on connecting the cable to the transmission. A member over on Jeep Forum (Chris) used the same shifter on his YJ that he swapped a V-8 & 46RE into. So I'm going to use his ideas for mine.

View attachment 294226

Once I've got the transmission cable connected then I'll also do the STaK's cables.
How do you like the length of the tcase shifters, Rick? Just looking at the pics, they look a bit long to me. But hard to tell without the seat in place.
 
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Really like the look of how this is coming together. Have you given any thought to doing the console in same material you used for the tub but maybe in black? Just throwing out ideas as not sure shiny fits with your interior.
 
How do you like the length of the tcase shifters, Rick? Just looking at the pics, they look a bit long to me. But hard to tell without the seat in place.

I like the length so far and they aren't really any longer than my previous ones.
This was the first version of the STaK's shifters for a TJ.

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And then this was the second version of the StaK's shifters. Better than the first version but they rattled some because they only had a small piece of rubber on the levers.

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Here are the old & newer STaK's shifters together


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It's why my tub was so cut up on that one side. Trying to make room for this shifter was FUN.

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The DS could be in the way, just thinking of possible solutions if there were any.

It's a good idea and I'll look at it more once I get the rear axle rebuilt and back in place.

Really like the look of how this is coming together. Have you given any thought to doing the console in same material you used for the tub but maybe in black? Just throwing out ideas as not sure shiny fits with your interior.

I don't think I'd want it bedlined or if I was to spray bedliner on it I'd want it without the no-slip stuff. I'm trying to figure out what color I'd want to paint it if I decided to do that.

Really like the look of how this is coming together. Have you given any thought to doing the console in same material you used for the tub but maybe in black? Just throwing out ideas as not sure shiny fits with your interior.

With your skills and the equipment you have at work I'm sure you could knock out something that looked great.