Anyone running the Rough Country adjustable front track bar?

I’m starting to think that some people are only going to recommend the most expensive parts made, somehow not wanting to put their reputation at risk by condoning a ‘less desirable’ option (?) While I am sure that Currie and JKS are top shelf products, are they worth almost 2-3 times more? Wouldn’t it depend on how the owner (me) plans on using their Jeep?

My planned usage is to take good care of my Jeep while having fun at the dunes and on the trails. But I’m never going to push the limits with the capabilities of my Jeep. I’m aware of what they can do, I’m just not going to drive it that hard. My tires are not going to be over 32”. That said, (and I wish I would have included this info in my first post) do all of you guys that recommended the expensive track bar still think it’s just as important for me now?

Thanks for all your replies
 
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Bighammer said:
I’m starting to think that some people are only going to recommend the most expensive parts made, somehow not wanting to put their reputation at risk by condoning a ‘less desirable’ option (?) While I am sure that Currie and JKS are top shelf products, are they worth almost 2-3 times more? Wouldn’t it depend on how the owner (me) plans on using their Jeep?

My planned usage is to take good care of my Jeep while having fun at the dunes and on the trails. But I’m never going to push the limits with the capabilities of my Jeep. I’m aware of what they can do, I’m just not going to drive it that hard. My tires are not going to be over 32”. That said, (and I wish I would have included this info in my first post) do all of you guys that recommended the expensive track bar still think it’s just as important for me now?

Thanks for all your replies
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My responses don't change.

No heim joints or split bushings. The bar needs to fit your setup. And I prefer Johnny Joints on both ends over bonded rubber bushings (for my setup).
 
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Bighammer said:
My tires are not going to be over 32”. That said, (and I wish I would have included this info in my first post) do all of you guys that recommended the expensive track bar still think it’s just as important for me now?
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Tire size isn't really all that relevant to your track bar decision, it's fit within your usable travel. It matters more with more travel, but not exceptionally more.

That said, I can't speak to the RC bar. I've run JKS and Currie and found JKS to be a good second place contender to the Currie that replaced it.
 
I had rough country and rubicon express products they failed and I had to buy a more superior product. If I would have just went with the more superior product I would have saved my self $$$$$$$$. Buy once cry once. Another note I did go through a rubicon express “heavy duty” track bar and once I bought my Currie track bar I knew the HD on RE track bar was just a gimmick. Currie is real heavy duty.
Hell a metal cloak track bar is better than rough country.
Currie, jks, then metal cloak is the way I’ll go.
 
Bighammer said:
I’m starting to think that some people are only going to recommend the most expensive parts made, somehow not wanting to put their reputation at risk by condoning a ‘less desirable’ option (?) While I am sure that Currie and JKS are top shelf products, are they worth almost 2-3 times more? Wouldn’t it depend on how the owner (me) plans on using their Jeep?

My planned usage is to take good care of my Jeep while having fun at the dunes and on the trails. But I’m never going to push the limits with the capabilities of my Jeep. I’m aware of what they can do, I’m just not going to drive it that hard. My tires are not going to be over 32”. That said, (and I wish I would have included this info in my first post) do all of you guys that recommended the expensive track bar still think it’s just as important for me now?

Thanks for all your replies
Click to expand...

I think you'll probably be fine. Worst case you'll start wanting to do harder trails and go bigger later, and you'll just be out the cost of an RC track bar, which in the long term just isn't that much.
 
To my surprise, Ive got a RC track bar on my JK. Or rather, I had. Literally removed it today to replace it with a JKS.

So ya, I didn't know what brand it was until someone pointed it out. Originally, I thought it was a Teraflex. Either way, Im changing it because the bushings are shot. It was installed on the Jeep in 2017. Bought the Jeep from a friend and he has receipts for most of the work that was done to it before I purchased it from him, thus documenting the install of the TB, but not the brand.

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Bighammer said:
I’m starting to think that some people are only going to recommend the most expensive well thought-out parts made, somehow not wanting to put their reputation at risk by condoning a ‘less desirable’ option (?)
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This isn't a forum where members often suggest, or are looking for, "the cheapest" anything. Steering and brakes are two places I'm not looking to save a buck.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I think you'll probably be fine. Worst case you'll start wanting to do harder trails and go bigger later, and you'll just be out the cost of an RC track bar, which in the long term just isn't that much.
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A clevite bushing axle end and tie rod style frame end track bar has worked for 965,945 TJ’s - every single one produced. Of course that is engineered around stock parameters.

The $129 RC track bar accepts the stock bushing at the axle, and can accept a Moog K7252 with a 9/16
Bolt if needed there , and uses an ES 3096 L at the frame. For the casual off roader - which is probably 90 percent of the people here that even get these things off the pavement, it will get the job done. Given my lack of confidence in the Made in Mexico clevite bushing they provide and guessing their ES3096 L is a cheapo, you do need to consider it is another $60-70 bucks to get Moog or comparable ends- so there is a little bit of a false economy going on.

I’m just trying trying to be totally truthful. If it had quality bushings and ends for $129 it would be a better value. Maybe they are better now but most of their smaller clevites lose density and flex too much pretty quick.

Also removing the clevite on one was rough - I thought we would never get it out.
 
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I'll will say that the RC TB itself is stout. But I've been told (local shop owner) that the collar is also a weak point. Of course, everyone has their opinion and personal experience. So YMMV.
 
I believe I found a decent upgrade that’s in my budget. What say you?
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Johnny Joints on the adjustable end, but poly bushings on the other. I’m assuming it’s fully greaseable (?) but the price is right and a great warranty
 
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When I look at a Johnny Joint, which I think is marvelous, the first thing that comes to mind is why don’t they machine some little channels on the inside in the poly part where it wraps the ball so that grease can hold and travel - starting at the grease fitting if it has the outer fitting. That seems like it would help them to accept a little bit of grease since they are made to such tight tolerances.
 
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rasband said:
I'd probably just go JKS, it's cheaper and has the adjuster on the other end (allowing you to bend the bar to clear the diff if you need to).
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You’re saying that it’s possible that I might need to put a new bend in the JKS TB? What? I’m in over my head already 🥴 as I’m not familiar enough with all this. Also, I’ve scoured the webs and can’t find any better (cheaper) price than the CORE tier 3 @ $219 shipped
 
AndyG said:
A clevite bushing axle end and tie rod style frame end track bar has worked for 965,945 TJ’s - every single one produced. Of course that is engineered around stock parameters.

The $129 RC track bar accepts the stock bushing at the axle, and can accept a Moog K7252 with a 9/16
Bolt if needed there , and uses an ES 3096 L at the frame. For the casual off roader - which is probably 90 percent of the people here that even get these things off the pavement, it will get the job done. Given my lack of confidence in the Made in Mexico clevite bushing they provide and guessing their ES3096 L is a cheapo, you do need to consider it is another $60-70 bucks to get Moog or comparable ends- so there is a little bit of a false economy going on.

I’m just trying trying to be totally truthful. If it had quality bushings and ends for $129 it would be a better value. Maybe they are better now but most of their smaller clevites lose density and flex too much pretty quick.

Also removing the clevite on one was rough - I thought we would never get it out.
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I say run the bushing it comes with and replace it when it fails. It's all captive so it's not like a failure would cause anything catastrophic. Maybe some noise and an incidence of DW.
 
Bighammer said:
You’re saying that it’s possible that I might need to put a new bend in the JKS TB? What? I’m in over my head already 🥴 as I’m not familiar enough with all this. Also, I’ve scoured the webs and can’t find any better (cheaper) price than the CORE tier 3 @ $219 shipped
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Probably not, but it's possible when you start testing the limits.
 
Bighammer said:
You’re saying that it’s possible that I might need to put a new bend in the JKS TB? What? I’m in over my head already 🥴 as I’m not familiar enough with all this. Also, I’ve scoured the webs and can’t find any better (cheaper) price than the CORE tier 3 @ $219 shipped
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Your Jeep isn’t a rubicon right? If you have a Dana 30 in the front you shouldn’t have any clearance issues. Also for only 50 bucks more you can order that same core4x4 track bar with Johnny joints on both ends.
 
Im sure its a fantastic track bar. I actually almost purchased it. Great customer service too. Meaning they were accessible and someone answered my call when I rang them. The ONLY reason I didn't buy it was because Im not familiar with their longevity and or if they'll be around in the near future.
 
RC track bar here. No clearance issues or any other issues for the mild wheeling I do. Buy the parts for what you need.
 
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