Do I need a case spreader?
- Thread starter biggrigg49
- Start date
Ditchdoc
Member
You realize that 15 thou is 15 thou. You do know that ratchet binder have I infinite amount of tension you can apply. The real question is do you know why there must be a degree of tightness and setting of preload?
Ditchdoc
Member
The old man was absolutely right. Rule of thumb is 3 in/lb per inch of bearing diameter. And that applies to any machine that uses tapered bearings. Of course always consult manufacturer instructions. That's what I learned in the Daystrom institute.
Last edited:
OP
Update-Good news, bad news. I put it in the freezer overnight and was able to get it in. It was still tight but not bad. Bad news is I think I broke the copper line on the seal housing with all of my fighting with it yesterday. It doesn't feel solid. It is a little wiggly which concerns me. So tomorrow morning I'm off to East Coast Gear Supply to pick up a new one. I will try again tomorrow. Thanks for everyones help. The saga continues.
Ditchdoc
Member
Sorry to hear that. Here is my cheap,simple solution. I've used this method on many cases when I just need that small controlled force. Use a feeler Guage and a Guage bar if you're worried about over spreading the case. Hope this may help you. If not it will give the experts here something to say is wrong.
I've found the ARB Differential Shim Driver to be very useful to get shims in. Even really helpful when you just need to get them in that last few mm.
I have done it with and without a case spreader. After my third time with out I bought a used one and will never set gears without out it again If I have a choice.
incorrect preload kills more gears then horse power or less then desirable gear pattern. At least in the axles I have ”fixed”.
Do you have a couple of homies you could split the cost of the tool with? Just a thought.
incorrect preload kills more gears then horse power or less then desirable gear pattern. At least in the axles I have ”fixed”.
Do you have a couple of homies you could split the cost of the tool with? Just a thought.
I had my gears installed by a (crappy) shop. They fall right out when I unbolt the caps and go on by hand. I'm guessing by all this talk I need to take my Jeep somewhere and have them set the gears up properly?
Full Awn Fab in Opel, VA btw. Steer clear.
Full Awn Fab in Opel, VA btw. Steer clear.
Yes. The bearings are tapered so when preload is incorrect the pinion pushes the ring gear away and out under load.
^this... like 100x
Once I got a case spreader, the clouds parted, the sun rays shone, and angels began singing in the background.
Seriously though, of all the tools I own, I'm not sure why I waited so long to buy a case spreader. It makes it so f$*#@*! easy that I won't ever not use it. I've seen so many "just use a wooden or plastic mallet or dead-blow hammer" installs before that have essentially dropped out of the housing once the carrier caps were removed that I cannot recommend doing it this way (especially with outboard shims!).
Got this bad boy for ~$100 on eBay a few years ago. Not sure if the seller is still around but it's beefy...
Good luck. I've messed up the copper tube on mine before too and had to braze it back in.
As far as carrier pre-load is concerned, I screwed up my Dana 35 somehow and I'm not sure how I missed it, but it better be hard to get the diff in and out. I kept having a noise from that axle and eventually removed that caps that retained carrier and I could get the diff out by hand and usually it takes my weak self something else to pry it out. I added .004" of shim and set BL back up, checking in multiple places and all of the noises went away.
I'm a fan of the case spreaders and the cheap ones on Ebay worked fine for me. Just use your indicator and make sure you don't overdo anything.
If you're new to fabrication I think a DIY case spreader would be a fun project. However I was too busy and just ordered tools.
As far as carrier pre-load is concerned, I screwed up my Dana 35 somehow and I'm not sure how I missed it, but it better be hard to get the diff in and out. I kept having a noise from that axle and eventually removed that caps that retained carrier and I could get the diff out by hand and usually it takes my weak self something else to pry it out. I added .004" of shim and set BL back up, checking in multiple places and all of the noises went away.
I'm a fan of the case spreaders and the cheap ones on Ebay worked fine for me. Just use your indicator and make sure you don't overdo anything.
If you're new to fabrication I think a DIY case spreader would be a fun project. However I was too busy and just ordered tools.
OP
Success. Got the new seal housing and after two days in the freezer I was able get it in. It actually went in good. It took a little persuasion from the dead blow hammer but I feel good about how the shims went in. Took it for a ride and had no unusual noises or anything that concerns me. Time will tell. And both lockers are air tight. I thought I was going to have to pull the front also but it seems good so far. I really didn't put them to much of a test though. The compressor coming on and off was very annoying, now not even a burp from the compressor.
I want to thank each of you for all of the help. It is good to have good place to go for advice. I wish I could buy each of you a cold beer. Now it's Miller Time after I put every tool that I own back in it's place. Thanks again.
I want to thank each of you for all of the help. It is good to have good place to go for advice. I wish I could buy each of you a cold beer. Now it's Miller Time after I put every tool that I own back in it's place. Thanks again.
