OP
I need to por15 my undercarriage. That picture reminds me. I don't have a rust problem, but I don't want one.
The Bargain Box
- Thread starter Bargain Box
- Start date
OP
Toyota headlight conversion. Looks so much better.
OP
Starting the welding on all the holes in my rear cargo area left by PO.
OP
Keeping to the build theme, I found an open box MORyde tailgate kit for 50% off. My hinges were barely hanging on so this was much needed.
Before
Cleaning as I'm tearing down. Lots of dirt and grime built up.
Rust preventive paint after clean and prep for a little security.
Test fitting for alignment.
Finished product. Now I have to be gentle opening and closing because it will slam or hit the limiters from swinging so easy. It also has greasable hinges.
Before
Cleaning as I'm tearing down. Lots of dirt and grime built up.
Rust preventive paint after clean and prep for a little security.
Test fitting for alignment.
Finished product. Now I have to be gentle opening and closing because it will slam or hit the limiters from swinging so easy. It also has greasable hinges.
OP
Communications setup complete. Black Friday special on uniden pro 520xl, Amazon special tail light bracket, and a Firestik FSB2. Got the readings down to 2.5 eventually. Used the unswitched aux circuit from fuse 19 so I can have it on without the ignition.
OP
Just got these currie double adjustable rear upper control arms from @SkylinesSuck . One step towards the next goal.
are you gonna regrease them? if so I've got an extra container of the recommended grease.
OP
He was nice enough to clean, grease, and anti seize them before he sent them.
OP
Did you get hardware with bigger shanks for your control arms? I just tried to put the first one on and there is a lot of play. The factory bolts appear to be to small.
Yep, no need to regrease them. I took them apart and did it right before I sent them. I have the rebuild tools so it's pretty easy. They are ready to go (unless some dumbass forgets to remove, clean, and antiseize one of the jamb nuts before sending it 
). I did use the currie recommend grease and not the redline stuff just because I wasn't sure what most people wanted because OEM. Currie doesn't like the redline grease Blaine recommends (but I run it).
And on the bolts, I sent you a PM, but some people run factory bolts and claim it's fine because the clamping force holds them in place. I drilled mine out and bought greaseable bolts from Currie. Grade 8 hardware works fine though and it's arguably stronger.
). I did use the currie recommend grease and not the redline stuff just because I wasn't sure what most people wanted because OEM. Currie doesn't like the redline grease Blaine recommends (but I run it).And on the bolts, I sent you a PM, but some people run factory bolts and claim it's fine because the clamping force holds them in place. I drilled mine out and bought greaseable bolts from Currie. Grade 8 hardware works fine though and it's arguably stronger.
Just read the thread. I like the build a lot. And if you guys plan a Uwharrie trip in advance, let me know. I went to HS near Greensboro and used to go there a lot. Still have family in the area so I could find an easy reason to go visit 
OP
That jam nut was no match for two wrenches, a wire wheel, and done anti seize. I'm going to call currie today and see what they are shipping with new sets. I'm definitely not liking the free play but if they say it's normal I'll probably just get some new bolts and move on for now.Yep, no need to regrease them. I took them apart and did it right before I sent them. I have the rebuild tools so it's pretty easy. They are ready to go (unless some dumbass forgets to remove, clean, and antiseize one of the jamb nuts before sending it
And on the bolts, I sent you a PM, but some people run factory bolts and claim it's fine because the clamping force holds them in place. I drilled mine out and bought greaseable bolts from Currie. Grade 8 hardware works fine though and it's arguably stronger.
OP
Thanks man! Come on down!Just read the thread. I like the build a lot. And if you guys plan a Uwharrie trip in advance, let me know. I went to HS near Greensboro and used to go there a lot. Still have family in the area so I could find an easy reason to go visit
If you haven’t already done something about the rear axle… I would do a super 35 even with 33s if you want a locker. I wouldn’t trust the 27 spline locked regardless of 33 or 35” tires. The cost of a 30 spline carrier/ 30spline shafts shouldn’t be much more if any more than a 27 spline locker and 27 spline shafts.
Personally I wouldn’t want an LSD in the rear. My dad had one for a while and it held him back big time in places my rear Detroit locker excelled. On a budget I would look at a 30 spline Yukon grizzly locker plus 30 spline shafts. It behaves even better on the street than a Detroit in my opinion. Seems like less backlash in it. Mine is a super 35 btw.
Personally I wouldn’t want an LSD in the rear. My dad had one for a while and it held him back big time in places my rear Detroit locker excelled. On a budget I would look at a 30 spline Yukon grizzly locker plus 30 spline shafts. It behaves even better on the street than a Detroit in my opinion. Seems like less backlash in it. Mine is a super 35 btw.
OP
The reason I was leaning towards the Eaton Trutrac is a lot of people out this way have had great luck with them and highly recommend them plus they have no clutches and it brings the build cost down considerably. I understand the weakness of the 35 fully. I have tried very hard to get a 44 swap but people want a mint for them so I gave up. I'm currently saving funds for both axles to get worked over. I already bought a Torq locker for the front. The rear specifics are going to depend on pricing and funds available.
Current projection:
456 master rebuild kit
Dana 30 - new carrier and torq locker with stock axles
Dana 35 - option 1 is Trutrac with 27 spline chromoly axles. Option 2 is 30 spline chromoly axles with Detroit or grizzly locker.
Just depends what you’re doing I suppose. For mud stuff an LSD is great, the second you start climbing rocks you’ll wish you had a locker
OP
Detroit and Trutrac are both LSD correct? It's just torsion vs clutch engagement. Unless by Detroit you mean e-locker.
Nope. An LSD is different than an automatic locker. Grizzly and Detroit are both automatic lockers. Trutrac is LSD. Both my dads Jeep and mine came with trutracs and they sucked for any kind of rock crawling.
Remember his terrain and type of wheeling is different than what you are doing in AZ. When I was stationed in MD the type of wheeling I did on the east coast you don't lift a tire as much.
Bargain,
If you THINK you might ever go to a 35" tire then build your Dana 35 now to handle it. There is no point in spending that kind of money twice. And If you're going to be getting 33" tires when you regear and add lockers then I would look at 4.88 gears over 4.56 gears.
Again if you think you might at some point go to 35" tires you'll be glad for the little deeper gears.
But I'd rather be overgeared and drive a little slower on the highway than be undergeared and not have the gearing.