What is involved in lifting the gas tank one inch? I know that you need a one inch body lift to start but what then?
What is involved in lifting the gas tank one inch?
- Thread starter TurboTJ
- Start date
After the BL as you mention, Not much. Just swap the gas tank cover for the tucked gas tank cover selected and accommodate the filler hose for the short space and be sure the process hoses are not pinch.
My new savvy tank verse a junk old one the PO had installed. Old picture has rear bumper at lower height, new picture gas the tank raised, body lifts and rear bumper moved to upper option holes.
I needed the savvy tank skid, the savvy body lift to make this work in my case. I did not need to adjust the filler tube or any other lines.
I needed the savvy tank skid, the savvy body lift to make this work in my case. I did not need to adjust the filler tube or any other lines.
OP
So is it not possible to just raise the OEM skidplate? You have to get a Savvy or other brand replacement?
If you can weld anything is possible... I want to say I saw someone cut an inch out and re weld it back together on here once.
OP
Like Alex said, it requires fab work to use the OEM tank. Unless you already have all the tools and skills, it may be cheaper to buy one premade. Undercover fab makes one also.
Found it over at the there jeep forum. "stock gas tank modification: Free ground clearance*"
Modifying Skid Plate:
Cut mounting flanges off steel skid plate (Fig 7). Allow for sufficient overlap of metal when planning the cuts, typically, right at the main tank level is good but preserve the strap mount slots on the front.
Grind off paint from area to be welded. Over lap the mounting flanges 1" lower on the skid plate and clamp into place (Fig 8). Stich weld back together (Fig 9). Alternatively, you can clamp, drill, and bolt these pieces together. Bend the front of the skid plate between the mounting flanges inward slightly for a hair more track bar clearance (Fig 10).
If the straps need to be lengthened, cut and weld in a piece of thin steel or elongate the front strap slots. Clean up all welds and hit with some spray paint.
Fig 8. Re-align flanges 1" lower and clamp into place.
Fig 9. Stitch weld (or bolt) the flanges back onto the skid plate body.
Fig 10. Trim excess steel and bend for greater track bar clearance.
Reinstall Skid Plate:
Reinstall gas tank and modified skid plate in the reverse order of removal. Having an assistant helps a great deal. For those with a rotated pinion the clearance to the track bar will be tight but can be improved with the techniques here. The rear shock is also tight for shocks with a rigid dust shield.
Welding Alternatives:
There are two alternatives to welding the skid flanges back on:
1. Do a bolted connection with the overlapping pieces. Clamp the pieces with a 1" overlap and then drill the bolt holes.
or
2. Trim off the stock flanges closer to the factory bends and then re-bend your own, new flanges with the remaining steel. Drill new bolt holes in the same locations on the new flanges.
Can't go wrong with the savvy skid. I run one. It was easy to install and has proven to take some rocks.
Modifying Skid Plate:
Cut mounting flanges off steel skid plate (Fig 7). Allow for sufficient overlap of metal when planning the cuts, typically, right at the main tank level is good but preserve the strap mount slots on the front.
Grind off paint from area to be welded. Over lap the mounting flanges 1" lower on the skid plate and clamp into place (Fig 8). Stich weld back together (Fig 9). Alternatively, you can clamp, drill, and bolt these pieces together. Bend the front of the skid plate between the mounting flanges inward slightly for a hair more track bar clearance (Fig 10).
If the straps need to be lengthened, cut and weld in a piece of thin steel or elongate the front strap slots. Clean up all welds and hit with some spray paint.
Fig 8. Re-align flanges 1" lower and clamp into place.
Fig 9. Stitch weld (or bolt) the flanges back onto the skid plate body.
Fig 10. Trim excess steel and bend for greater track bar clearance.
Reinstall Skid Plate:
Reinstall gas tank and modified skid plate in the reverse order of removal. Having an assistant helps a great deal. For those with a rotated pinion the clearance to the track bar will be tight but can be improved with the techniques here. The rear shock is also tight for shocks with a rigid dust shield.
Welding Alternatives:
There are two alternatives to welding the skid flanges back on:
1. Do a bolted connection with the overlapping pieces. Clamp the pieces with a 1" overlap and then drill the bolt holes.
or
2. Trim off the stock flanges closer to the factory bends and then re-bend your own, new flanges with the remaining steel. Drill new bolt holes in the same locations on the new flanges.
Can't go wrong with the savvy skid. I run one. It was easy to install and has proven to take some rocks.
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This says cut then overlap 1 inch, if you're running a body lift couldn't you go closer to 2-inch overlap similar to the Savy Skid lift for even more clearance?
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Peek in over the top of the tank and see how close it is to the first thing it is going to run into. That is how much you can raise it.
Yea I went to the jeep forum, found the original post, and saw where it mentions hitting the frame cross member, makes sense. I hope to tackle this next weekend.
Last weekend in Hot Springs I kept hitting my Factory hitch on everything. I plan to get an aftermarket bumper with the hitch in the bumper soon, but once the factory hitch isn't there I feel like I'll just start smashing the tank.
I looked at the Aluminum Savy one and love that but it's back-ordered and 500 bucks so I think I'll get to chopping and welding!
The more you raise and tuck, the more other things get exposed and need to be protected. You've been warned!
what gets exposed by tucking the hitch and tank?! This damn Jeep is a Slip and slide, you do one thing and there are 10 more requirements to follow, my ADD brain over here sat down tonight to look at bumpers, and now it's planning to do a gas tank liftThe more you raise and tuck, the more other things get exposed and need to be protected. You've been warned!
You may use the bumper itself more. If that bothers you and you switch to a smaller, tighter bumper, then the body gets exposed. Then you need to armor the body before it gets chewed up too much. Eventually you might find yourself pushing the axle back partly to reduce the rear body overhang. At that point, the gas tank has found itself behind the front seats below the spare tire.
UKTJ
TJ Addict
I can't weld, so I like the fact there is a no weld option for achieving this. I just have a nagging worry about the bolts and the tank. Irrational no doubt, but it still nags at me.
what bolts? The ones that Savvy uses to hold the flange to the aluminum skid? They are carriage head bolts, perfectly smooth and rounded on the inside. Plus, the tank has a very generous corner radius in that area. I can't remember exactly, but I don't think the bolts even contact the tank.
I’ve done this mod twice with bolts. Just use carriage bolts. You’ll be fine. Free clearance.