TJ runs for a little bit, then dies and won't start for about a minute

Jakejeep2005

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Joined
Mar 31, 2020
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52
Location
Mountain Home Arkansas
so my jeep had this problem not to long ago. i was on my way home from work and it died out of nowhere. when it died all my gauges went off and all lights went off even though my key was still on. then a couple seconds later the gas light and the key warning light came on. about a minute or two it started back but then died again shortly after. did an alternator check and the alternator is fine. would say a fuel pump but i’m not sure why the gauges would do that for a bad fuel pump. any ideas?
 
If the gauges went off then then I would check the three 32 pin harness connectors to the ECU for oxidation on the pins and clips and firmly snap the connectors into the ECU receptacles.
Then check the harness that goes from the ECU around the back of the valve cover that is routed around a threaded head stud. The threads are known to rub thru the split wire loom and wiring insulation causing the signals and voltage to ECU from the sensors to short to ground.
This will shut down the vehicle until the shorted wiring is no longer touching the ground.
Check the battery terminals and cable clamps for oxidation and ensure they are tight onto terminals.
Then check the grounding cable and wiring that is attached to the stud screwed into the block next to the oil filter for oxidation and ensure its tight.
 
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everyone is suggesting to go drive your randomly shutting off Jeep to confirm it will continue to randomly shut off.

Plz don’t hit anything during your testing :ROFLMAO:
 
so my jeep had this problem not to long ago. i was on my way home from work and it died out of nowhere. when it died all my gauges went off and all lights went off even though my key was still on. then a couple seconds later the gas light and the key warning light came on. about a minute or two it started back but then died again shortly after. did an alternator check and the alternator is fine. would say a fuel pump but i’m not sure why the gauges would do that for a bad fuel pump. any ideas?

Is this a recurring problem, or a (so far) one time thing?
 
No need to actually drive the vehicle if the issue is related to the key. A bad chip (or a no-chip key) will have this symptom while idling in park.
 
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If the gauges went off then then I would check the three 32 pin harness connectors to the ECU for oxidation on the pins and clips and firmly snap the connectors into the ECU receptacles.
Then check the harness that goes from the ECU around the back of the valve cover that is routed around a threaded head stud. The threads are known to rub thru the split wire loom and wiring insulation causing the signals and voltage to ECU from the sensors to short to ground.
This will shut down the vehicle until the shorted wiring is no longer touching the ground.
Check the battery terminals and cable clamps for oxidation and ensure they are tight onto terminals.
Then check the grounding cable and wiring that is attached to the stud screwed into the block next to the oil filter for oxidation and ensure its tight.
i’ll take a look into this. thank you.
 
It still is not clear to me if the issue only happens when driving, or if it also happens when idling in park...
I see that you tried a 2nd key. That makes me suspect the anti-theft circuit is to blame. The sensor ring that detects the key chip may be an issue. It is an electronic component, so it can surely fail. If it has failed, the issue would occur with any key that you try.
I would at least check the electrical connections on everything within the steering column area.
 
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Unless skim key behavior changed in the later years, this Is NOT a skim issue. I have a broken lock cylinder and I drive without the key in the ignition ALL the time. The only time my jeep looks for skim is during the first click to the on position. Once it sees it and is satisfied the key can be removed indefinitely until the jeep it clicked off. Then it requires skim if clicked back to on again.
 
It still is not clear to me if the issue only happens when driving, or if it also happens when idling in park...
I see that you tried a 2nd key. That makes me suspect the anti-theft circuit is to blame. The sensor ring that detects the key chip may be an issue. It is an electronic component, so it can surely fail. If it has failed, the issue would occur with any key that you try.
I would at least check the electrical connections on everything within the steering column area.
it happens anytime. anytime it’s on it will die in 2-3 minutes regardless of it being parked or driving.
 
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Unless skim key behavior changed in the later years, this Is NOT a skim issue. I have a broken lock cylinder and I drive without the key in the ignition ALL the time. The only time my jeep looks for skim is during the first click to the on position. Once it sees it and is satisfied the key can be removed indefinitely until the jeep it clicked off. Then it requires skim if clicked back to on again.
Sorry, but if the SKIM circuit is damaged, broken, faulty, etc. than the vehicle will LIKELY still start & run for a short period.
I know this because we have a key WITHOUT a chip (it was cut as a spare for the door locks long before I owned the Jeep), and if I try to use this key to drive with, it operates EXACTLY as the OP listed... it runs for a short period of time (while the 'no key' light is on), then it shuts off.
Thus the reason I questioned if the symptoms still continue with a 2nd key; to eliminate the chip as a possible root cause.
The fact that the symptoms exist using the 2nd chipped key strongly suggest an issue w/ the SKIM circuit.
 
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Sorry, but if the SKIM circuit is damaged, broken, faulty, etc. than the vehicle will LIKELY still start & run for a short period.
I know this because we have a key WITHOUT a chip (it was cut as a spare for the door locks long before I owned the Jeep), and if I try to use this key to drive with, it operates EXACTLY as the OP listed... it runs for a short period of time (while the 'no key' light is on), then it shuts off.
Thus the reason I questioned if the symptoms still continue with a 2nd key; to eliminate the chip as a possible root cause.
The fact that the symptoms exist using the 2nd chipped key strongly suggest an issue w/ the SKIM circuit.
The run time of a vehicle that does not sense a skim key is about 3 seconds at best. I think the OP got a much longer run time than that as he stated that it shut off mid drive home. Skim cuts power to fuel pump if the key is not sensed within a few seconds of turning to on position. I don't see how he could get partway down the road and THEN have a skim issue. The fact that the issue occurred with two different keys is even further proof that it isn't a key related issue.
 
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