Which BL did you go with and what are you doing for the spare tire? I really need the BL since my 33s are bigger than I had planned for, but at least I’ve got the full size spare supported/rubbing on the bumper. If I go BL I’m worried about needing to do the tailgate reinforcement.
PRNDL's Green One
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OP
Savvy BL. Once that was installed, my spare cleared the bumper on the factory spare carrier without a relocation bracket. the 5" backspacing on the Moabs helped here i think. I'm going to keep an eye on it but it seems fine for now.
OP
In terms of clearance with the UCF skid? No, the 1.25" aluminum provided just enough for the 241 by a fraction of an inch.
In terms of the tcase shifter after the BL, yes, there was a lot of bind in the factory linkage. I installed the Savvy cable shifter yesterday which eliminated any issues.
OP
Any aluminum body lift will do. I think Rokmen and MORE sell 1" versions.
Rokmen 1" kit
Looks like MORE sells a couple of different combo kits.
OP
Got it out this past weekend at Bridgeport OHV park. It didn't fall apart or explode. In fact, its far more capable than I am right now. I do have a list of items to look into before the next time out. It was a blast.
OP
Lots going on. I have just over a week before the next trip out assuming I can afford the gas next week. Hand throttle should arrive next Tuesday, really looking forward to having better throttle control on the trails.
Installed a rear recovery point:
Started wiring for independent locker controls. I have relays arriving this weekend to get the lights to function. Yes, I'm keeping the stock axle lock switch in place until I need the slot for something else.
Installed a rear recovery point:
Started wiring for independent locker controls. I have relays arriving this weekend to get the lights to function. Yes, I'm keeping the stock axle lock switch in place until I need the slot for something else.
OP
I've started on the front end adjustments.
I noticed this when I installed my front track bar, but revisited it again. The axle side mount looks like its either wallowed or was drilled out. Not sure if this is a big deal or not.
Cycling the axle, the jounce cups and spring perches were off laterally by about 3/4" at full bump. The axle is square to the frame, but checking for center, it was only off about 1/16". Not sure where the miss is, I'll dig into it more this weekend.
Track bar made contact with the diff too. Not enough to catch, it slides, but I'll adjust. I saw later the frame side JJ wasn't level after this picture but, rotated with the rear side up. Not sure exactly if/how that would change things.
The good news is I only need 2" of bump stop with another half inch on the shock visible. I may get a few hockey pucks to cut in half to take advantage of that last half inch. I screwed up the passenger side pad and drilled the hole too big for the 1/2" tap. Guess I'll move up to 9/16".
I noticed this when I installed my front track bar, but revisited it again. The axle side mount looks like its either wallowed or was drilled out. Not sure if this is a big deal or not.
Cycling the axle, the jounce cups and spring perches were off laterally by about 3/4" at full bump. The axle is square to the frame, but checking for center, it was only off about 1/16". Not sure where the miss is, I'll dig into it more this weekend.
Track bar made contact with the diff too. Not enough to catch, it slides, but I'll adjust. I saw later the frame side JJ wasn't level after this picture but, rotated with the rear side up. Not sure exactly if/how that would change things.
The good news is I only need 2" of bump stop with another half inch on the shock visible. I may get a few hockey pucks to cut in half to take advantage of that last half inch. I screwed up the passenger side pad and drilled the hole too big for the 1/2" tap. Guess I'll move up to 9/16".
OP
Still on the list:
- Finish front bump stops
- Install hand throttle
- Check axle center
- Align and recenter steering wheel
- Adjust steering stops
- Persuade the gas skid to provide a bit more clearance on the rear track bar.
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If you wanna be fancy, you can pop the plastic toggle switch out of the switch housing and swap it into your locker switches to look more factory.
So the jounces and pads miss each other by 3/4” or just aren’t centered by 3/4”? When you center the axle at ride height (which is correct), the axle won’t be centered at bump due to the arc it makes from the trackbar straightening out. I would definitely make full hard bump right when the shocks reach full compression. No need to leave that extra 1/2” on the table.
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OP
Thanks, that helps a lot. The jounce cups and pads make contact, but miss center by about ~3/4". I was reading conflicting information about where they should be at full bump vs ride height. In my head, it makes sense that it would not be centered for exactly the reason you mention. My efforts to center the axle have all be done at ride height so I think I'm good there.
Good confirmation on the bump setting. I'll reduce the bump stop extension to take advantage of the final 1/2" of shock travel.
OP
When people talk about centering the jounce and pad at full bump, they are talking forward to back. Really that doesn’t matter much either. As long as they make solid contact and everything clears with the pinion angle set and all that then you’re good.
As far as your TB hitting, what are your lowers set to? With a mild pinion angle, 16” lowers seem to be a good starting point. I have a very low pinion angle because I have a hub kit so mine are set at 16.25”. My dad had to pull his in to 15.75” with his more extreme pinion angle to keep the TB from hitting the diff.
OP
Got it on the bumps, I'll work toward that.
Lowers measure just over 15.75".
EDIT: I haven't spent much time on the front pinion angle at all.
I’d keep them at 15.75 and get her on the springs and wheels, set your pinion angle with the uppers for now, then cycle again since that pinion angle will affect how much the diff hits the TB. If stuff hits then you’ll have to bring both the lowers and uppers in a smidge and maintain same pinion angle.
Edit: you also want to balance the caster and pinion angle. Ideally you want as much caster as possible without driveshaft vibes. If you have no history of vibes, try starting with your pinion 3* lower than driveshaft and test and see if you have vibes. If you get the vibes then raise pinion 1* at a time until they go away. That way you get as much caster as possible.
OP
No vibes so far, which is why I haven't spent much time on it.
I can't thank you enough. Its so helpful to have an experienced perspective to set the target. I'll have time this weekend to dig in to it.
OP
Bumps installed and set. One Rock Krawler puck plus half a hockey puck and I've still got shock shaft showing.
Looking good otherwise.
Here's the lateral offset on the drivers side.
This is full bump:
Looking good otherwise.
Here's the lateral offset on the drivers side.
This is full bump:
How squishy are the hockey pucks? If they squish at all then you may want to leave the 1/2” of shock shaft showing. I’ve just honestly never played with a hockey puck lol