Looking for a subwoofer upgrade

2atj

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Have already replaced the factory speakers with KICKER CS Series CSC5 5.25 and KICKER CSC46 CS Series 4 x 6. Since 1 front speaker was blown as well as the sub was blown. I replaced the sub with some cheap $10 speaker just so I could actually listen to the radio. Installed an Insane Audio head unit, because I already have on in my other jeep.

Looking to either replace the existing center console sub with a good sub or add a sub in back. System sounds ok now but lacks some good bass thump.

In my other jeep a 2015 JKU with the factory sub and speakers, only switched out the head unit and love how it sounds. Looking for something similar.
 
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Two 10" subs.
SPEAKER BOX (3).jpg
 
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I just put a Kenwood powered sub under my passenger seat. It sounds great for how easy it was to put in plenty of bass for my needs. Maybe upgrade your stock sub and add a powered subwoofer? Back when I was 20 I had 2 10 inch subwoofers and a 600 watt amp. And my Jeep thumped pretty good. Took up too much room tho.
 
If you like bass you'll want to go with a 10" sub. Pioneer makes a good amplified sub. DO NOT buy an off-brand sub.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1830463525...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

No way Boogie, dual 10".

Screenshot_20211231-193452.jpg


OP - stick with name brands as Boogie mentioned, but if you want bass a 6.75" woofer cannot deliver that, but the Kicker 6.75" gives most Jeepers enough boom.

If you want more, you need an amplifier and 10" box. It takes up space so you must think about how you use your Jeep. My dual 10" box has a quick disconnect so I can remove with ease when I need that rear space.
 
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If you are going to do an audio overhaul on your Jeep I recommend you switch out your old head-unit with a new one that has Bluetooth instead and an amp hooked up to it. Also look for a head-unit that has enough RCA outputs in order to correspond to the amount of audio outputs you will need. Also pony up for a higher quality head unit that has lower levels of distortion. This is because you want the audio source to be as clear as possible. That is why I went with Kenwood's Exelon series because of it's clearer source audio with low distortion at higher volumes. This is all the major audio equipment I am running in my TJ:

Mids and Highs:
Pioneer GM-DX874 Amp hooked up to 4 Polk Audio DB 522 5.25" Speakers, these are running at 100 watts RMS per speaker, it is safe to say that they get a bit loud. Also another nice thing about these Polks is that they are marine grade speakers.

Lows:
JL Audio JD500/1 Amp hooked up to 2 10" Rockford Fosgate Prime Subwoofers. These are running at a factory rated 500 watts RMS, but Rockford Fosgate and JL underrate their specs so it is running at around 600 RMS. I also ran a similar Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 amp with these subwoofers with identical results. I only switched because I found the JL amp on sale and preferred its tuning settings but they are both equally good amps. The Rockford Fosgate amp comes with a "birth sheet" that is unique to each amp because their output is tested after manufacturing. My specific birth sheet stated that it had a 611 watts RMS output under a 2 ohm load. Results may vary from amp to amp but most people get ~600 watts RMS on these amps. The 2 10" Rockford Fosgate subwoofers take that power no problem. Also these subwoofers were the only subwoofers at the audio shop that would fit in my small TJ trunk (excluding the smaller single subwoofer enclosures).

Head-Unit:
I chose the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X704 as my head-unit of choice because it outputs good audio quality, and was okay to listen to without an amp at it's 22 RMS but wasn't knock your socks off without an amp. It includes Alexa, hands free calling, Spotify compatibility, and a bunch of other novelties. One of my most sought after functions that this head-unit includes is, being able to take off the faceplate in order to give you peace of mind when parking it in a not so nice area with no doors and/or top.

This is a complete audio overhaul that isn't necessary, but sure is fun and loud. Do note that this audio system does not sound as good in a Jeep because of the terrible acoustics, but sure is still fun. I was able to run my friend's 2 12" JL subwoofers JL Audio CP212-W0v3 on the rear seats in my Jeep because we use the same amp in our setups and although it still sets off car alarms, it does still sound better in a car with doors and no soft top. Also I mounted my amps under my rear bench and they fit just right under there and I can easily access them by folding the rear bench forward.

I posted this before and some of the info is irrelevant for this thread, but the info stays true.
 
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if you want to go the plug and play route for the oem center console subwoofer https://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_1001.htm

if you go the route of a little bit of hands on work with some trimming and wiring the option of the shallow kicker 6 3/4 compRT subwoofer for the oem center console is a "replacement", be aware there are currently 2 models. they are visually similar other than the ohm rating which is a very important factor when selecting your amplifier to power them for compatibility.

one is dual 2 ohm voice coils - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT672/Kicker-48CWRT672.html

the other is dual 4 ohm voice coils - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT674/Kicker-48CWRT674.html


if you select the dual 2 ohm coil subwoofer you can create only a 1 or a 4 ohm load for the amplifier dependent on your wiring. whereas if you were to select the dual 4 ohm coil subwoofer you can create only a 2 or a 8 ohm load again depending on your wiring.
07D53360-C2E5-4BAF-8957-A205BCEDAE36.jpeg


ohm ratings are important to pay attention to so you either won't blow the sub or overheat the amplifier. you want them to be compatible. and there are various options for amplifier channels, id look at a mono also known as monoblock amplifier being as there is only one speaker requiring power.

I am running the Kicker CompRT 43WRT671 dual 1 ohm voice coil subwoofer paired with a miniature kicker 42PXA2001 amplifier which is stable down to .5 ohms @ 200 watts RMS I have it wired up for.

the 42PXA2001 amplifier would be a bit underpowered for the dual 2 ohm coil compRT subwoofer as it would only be able to provide 100 watts rms at a 1 ohm load (the sub is capable of 150 rms) & I wouldn't even bother trying to power the dual 4 ohm coil subwoofer with it as it would only be able to provide 50 watts @ 4 ohms.

food for thought. took me quite a while to determine what was compatible with each other for my subwoofer size requirement and placement of the amplifier.
 
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if you want to go the plug and play route for the oem center console subwoofer https://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_1001.htm

if you go the route of a little bit of hands on work with some trimming and wiring the option of the shallow kicker 6 3/4 compRT subwoofer for the oem center console is a "replacement", be aware there are currently 2 models. they are visually similar other than the ohm rating which is a very important factor when selecting your amplifier to power them for compatibility.

one is dual 2 ohm voice coils - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT672/Kicker-48CWRT672.html

the other is dual 4 ohm voice coils - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT674/Kicker-48CWRT674.html


if you select the dual 2 ohm coil subwoofer you can create only a 1 or a 4 ohm load for the amplifier dependent on your wiring. whereas if you were to select the dual 4 ohm coil subwoofer you can create only a 2 or a 8 ohm load again depending on your wiring.
View attachment 299749

ohm ratings are important to pay attention to so you either won't blow the sub or overheat the amplifier. you want them to be compatible. and there are various options for amplifier channels, id look at a mono also known as monoblock amplifier being as there is only one speaker requiring power.

I am running the Kicker CompRT 43WRT671 dual 1 ohm voice coil subwoofer paired with a miniature kicker 42PXA2001 amplifier which is stable down to .5 ohms @ 200 watts RMS I have it wired up for.

the 42PXA2001 amplifier would be a bit underpowered for the dual 2 ohm coil compRT subwoofer as it would only be able to provide 100 watts rms at a 1 ohm load (the sub is capable of 150 rms) & I wouldn't even bother trying to power the dual 4 ohm coil subwoofer with it as it would only be able to provide 50 watts @ 4 ohms.

food for thought. took me quite a while to determine what was compatible with each other for my subwoofer size requirement and placement of the amplifier.
This is the same route I’m taking now. If I may ask, what type of speaker wire did you use and how long of a wire did you use for your installation? Thanks
 
if you want to go the plug and play route for the oem center console subwoofer https://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_1001.htm

if you go the route of a little bit of hands on work with some trimming and wiring the option of the shallow kicker 6 3/4 compRT subwoofer for the oem center console is a "replacement", be aware there are currently 2 models. they are visually similar other than the ohm rating which is a very important factor when selecting your amplifier to power them for compatibility.

one is dual 2 ohm voice coils - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT672/Kicker-48CWRT672.html

the other is dual 4 ohm voice coils - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT674/Kicker-48CWRT674.html


if you select the dual 2 ohm coil subwoofer you can create only a 1 or a 4 ohm load for the amplifier dependent on your wiring. whereas if you were to select the dual 4 ohm coil subwoofer you can create only a 2 or a 8 ohm load again depending on your wiring.
View attachment 299749

ohm ratings are important to pay attention to so you either won't blow the sub or overheat the amplifier. you want them to be compatible. and there are various options for amplifier channels, id look at a mono also known as monoblock amplifier being as there is only one speaker requiring power.

I am running the Kicker CompRT 43WRT671 dual 1 ohm voice coil subwoofer paired with a miniature kicker 42PXA2001 amplifier which is stable down to .5 ohms @ 200 watts RMS I have it wired up for.

the 42PXA2001 amplifier would be a bit underpowered for the dual 2 ohm coil compRT subwoofer as it would only be able to provide 100 watts rms at a 1 ohm load (the sub is capable of 150 rms) & I wouldn't even bother trying to power the dual 4 ohm coil subwoofer with it as it would only be able to provide 50 watts @ 4 ohms.

food for thought. took me quite a while to determine what was compatible with each other for my subwoofer size requirement and placement of the amplifier.
This is the exact same set up I’m running. What are you using for the speaker wire? (Gauge and length) giggty.
 
I originally did the Kicker center sub with the Kicker 1/2 ohm amp. Having installed sound systems in the past, I didn't expect much. I had my Jeep in the garage for the install and when I powered everything up, I was pleasantly surprised. And then I pulled the Jeep out of the garage and immediately knew that I had wasted money. No cabin gain from being in the garage anymore, no cabin gain from the Jeep because.. well, it's a Jeep. Would not recommend.

20190608_161906.jpg



Save your money for a dedicated setup.

I run a 12" SSA Demon.

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With some of the new compact subs you can get some small box sizes. This is what i've been working on, it's 36"x 14.5"x 5.5" made from 5/8" MDF, 0.38 cu.ft each side. It bolts to the floor to keep it from flopping in case of roll over or accident.

20211006_183258.jpg
 
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