4th and final Jeep? 2005 LJ Rubicon

Stevo64

Stevo64

Let's Roll
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2022
Messages
22
Location
San Diego CA
I started my affairs with a 92 YJ in 2013 correcting and then enjoying it spring over axle, 4.10, 5spd, 33s. Sold in 2022. Then I had a 98 XJ 5spd with 3” that I built up to 5.5”, Clayton radius arms, frame stiffnes, bumpers, etc. It was totaled and I transplanted from the flywheel to 33’s the truetrac 4.10 Axles I had built into a 2001 XJ 2wd auto. Learned a lot about PCMs wiring, skim etc. More to all these stories and builds like rebuilding to AX-15s along the way, SYE’s etc.

So, it was with a mildly build weary heart that I bought a 2005 LJ Rubicon Safari 6sp soft top on metric 33’s with a 4” rubicon express short arm lift and 42000 miles. I did this mid XJ transplant. I had decided this was the unicorn of jeeps and would likely go up or at least sideways in value even if I did nothing to it. I had been scanning CL and had passed on one to a friend who bought it immediately. My khaki babe came on the market when I had the cash to move out so I “purchased the option” to see if I would enjoy a 4th affair of the heart.

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Among other things I had a camperking hardtop for a while. But too dark… and my YJ got me addicted to no doors and running open. With the YJ, I gave the doors away after 5 years in the attic. I am a diehard air in the hair guy. So I sold it and went bestop NX frameless so it’s easy to climb in the back seat with sides and backs gone:)

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The LJ also came with: pIAA lights, body armor front and rear bumpers that hold gas cans. So with the low miles (42k), manual safari, 4” rubicon express, lift, stout gas can hauling bumpers, winch, viper alarm and no rust, I paid $19k.
 
Last trip together. I will pivot now to more about what I have done to the LJ. I like to run a safari top and the hope of the NX top on the LJ was reduced whap of the top at speed. This is mostly true with the bow that comes with it. I did have to add some 1/4 neoprene foam under the header bar to eliminate some noise. I picked this tip up off the forums.

However with windows down the now gives some whap noise at freeway Speeds. Windows up and you’re good, but that was a minor disappointment. Otherwise the top is as you read about. It’s tight, but thoughtful loosening of the header and zippers makes it going on and off simple enough for me

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NX is the best looking to me. I am thinking to go back to hard with a bulldawg. Price holds me back for now, but I think the opening side windows and sun roof - particularly in the back could be the difference.

I am so doors off minded I do not like the door surrounds needed for the NX in safari mode. I also think about the hand strength it takes to get the soft top on and off with all the plastic tabs.

I also only have a 2 car garage, so the storage and management of the hardtop is thing too. I would love to keep the top off all the time ( with safari top). In San Diego this can be ~330 days a year. I only want it in for long drives, and rainy days.

My YJ sat out, open 365 days a year with vinyl seats, no carpets, bed lined and plugs pulled. I have not reached a point where the Rubi could go this way.

I have Bedrug in the Rubi now and the original seats - plugs in, so sitting out in the rain is not the current plan
 
If I go back to hardtop/open… I think I will do the same. But my wife’s car will be “under” the top. Juggling a Jeep, motorcycle and civic… all with compelling reasons to be in the garage…. If we ever move, a 3 stall garage is a must! I am lucky to have a spouse who is supportive… I’d like to show the love to keep her car clean! To much bee poop on our outside cars!
 
After driving the as bought LJ, I felt dissatisfied with its rough ride. I ended up with a Clayton long arm 3 link front and 4 link out back, with Clayton springs 170lb/in front and 205? lb/in rear. Fox 2.0 shocks, 35x12.5 BFG on procomp 69 series 15x8 rims- backspaced.

I have read all about short, mid(savy), and long arm pluses and minuses. After putting the radius arms on the XJ I was confident with how long arms would feel. And the arms so closely spaced at the body it probably is more like a radius arm with minimal anti squat/dive. I am sure savy is better on this point. I have seen the infamous hung on a rock long arm. But I am happy.

I think the issues I had really came from (1) 10 year old, E rated Toyos. New C-BFG KO2s made a big difference. (2) rubicon express and then bilstein shocks - they are digressively valved so intended to be stiff initially . Fox are progressive and floaty going to stiff. (3) long arm angles and spring rates affected the outcome the least I think.

My advice to anyone on e-rated tires is to go c-rated as so many others have recommended.
 
I no went from stiff Rubicon Express Springs then curie dual rate Springs and then the claytons. If anyone wants to hear about that. What I walk away from is that the combined spring rate of a dual rate Currie 4” Spring is under 100 pounds per inch. So if you have them in the back and you really load up your jeep your back will sag. Approximately every 200 pounds you add out back you’ll go down an inch. A buddy of mine did the curry short arm upgrade but carried a lot of weight and wound up swapping his rear springs for Clayton’s for this exact reason. And he was happy.

1) Dual rates are great for a nice ride but not necessarily for Load carrying

2) Springs and shocks that are matched and matched to the weight of the vehicle is the best way to go. I don’t always find someone who will say what that best pairing is for your rig. So it’s some trial and error.
 
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When I installed the Clayton long arms and was removing axle brackets in the rear, I decided to remove everything on the front. I executed a cut and turn on the C’s and rotated the new artec spring purchases so my caster would be in spec with a 4” lift. A lot of angle calculation and double checking went into it, but it worked out well
 
The cut and turn helped with castor hangle. With these artec brackets I was able to have a nice vertical spring versus a little bit of arc in it
 
Stevo64 said:
Last trip together. I will pivot now to more about what I have done to the LJ. I like to run a safari top and the hope of the NX top on the LJ was reduced whap of the top at speed. This is mostly true with the bow that comes with it. I did have to add some 1/4 neoprene foam under the header bar to eliminate some noise. I picked this tip up off the forums.

However with windows down the now gives some whap noise at freeway Speeds. Windows up and you’re good, but that was a minor disappointment. Otherwise the top is as you read about. It’s tight, but thoughtful loosening of the header and zippers makes it going on and off simple enough for me

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Thats a sweet LJ man!
 
Stevo64 said:
The cut and turn helped with castor hangle. With these artec brackets I was able to have a nice vertical spring versus a little bit of arc in it
Click to expand...
How did you manage to cut the C's off without cutting tube or C? Die grinder?
 
B00mb00m said:
How did you manage to cut the C's off without cutting tube or C? Die grinder?
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You can do it if you are very careful. I used a 4.5" disc and then a angle grinder with some roto bits and then a die grinder. I took a little off at a time.
 
On the rear, did you use Clayton’s shock mounts or more of the generic Poly/genright style when you outboarded? The Clayton kit looks better than most the ‘kits’, there’s just a few things I’d maybe go my own way on
 
Like was mentioned I used an angle grinder to remove the weld until I could see the “split” between the axle and the “C”. I used a sledge to rotate the C on the axle tube, so it never “came off”. Before rotating I put a radial cut in the end of the axle tube and the C- as you look at the opening where the axle goes in. This allowed me to “see” the rotation. I did one side at a time so I could ensure the angle change I wanted using the unmodified side as a reference. I did a lot of measuring to ensure the axle was level overall so I was getting the change I wanted.
 
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